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Mainah

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Hows this work....same audiopipe block that has both ground and power, BUT with AFC fuse types vs the AGU.

I looked and it seems the AFC fusees also have higher ratings, and I will be running 3 amps with 80a fuses, and 1 with 50a fuse.

So as long as I find the right fuse ratings this should be the ticket?


View attachment 73531

Notice it lists the outputs as 8awg. My unit came with inserts to reduce 0 awg inputs to 4 awg and the 4 awg outs to 8 awg if needed. Not sure if this will have the same.
 

Jaylex

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I just saw that reference to the 8awg outputs. not sure how I feel about that.

Ive always thought its better to not reduce, and in this case I want to make sure each amp gets full power.

Is this still worth considering or try to find another one of these Ive found so far?
 

Mainah

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I was inferring that the documentation could be off and just don't use the reducers but beware based upon the listing. The reducers are kind of like pipe inserts with a hole but are not permanent. I did not ise them was was happy with the way everything came together. I really like the mini anl version assuming 0 and 4 awg without the inserts.
 

adrianp89

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It def looks like 4 gauge inserts.
 

Jaylex

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Ahhhh, ok...well Ima try it out,if it does have 4awg outputs Im set!

These arent available anywhere....had to call around and finally found 1 in stock. Gonna order it up and hope it works, if so I think this is the best of both worlds.

@Mainah I cant tell by the pics but how are you able to run both power and ground on this single unit to 4 amps?

I only see holes at the bottom for 4awg, and a couple others on the side.

You can confirm this block has enough room for 4 outputs for both power and ground?
 

Mainah

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Inputs on are the left sode of the unit which is not pictured. The ground outputs are the left bottom square block 2x2 stacked. The +12vdc are the 4 with the fuses. Here is mine installed using 3 4 awg outputs. One for each amp and one for the fuse panel. Notice the 0 awg coming in from the left side.

 

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Ive always thought its better to not reduce
I'm not electrical engineer like some of you, but I'd like to understand why reducing at this distance would be a problem. The charts I find on acceptable current show that 8awg could handle up to 40amps with minimal voltage drop up to 6 feet. In the above photo, you'd be looking at perhaps 2 feet from the block to the amp.... but if you are installing an 8 channel JL....it is fused at 80amps....so for a monster amp you'd need 4awg, but 6 or 8 would be fine for 4 channel amps....no? (assuming a short run)

 

Jaylex

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Perfect...I can see now....I couldn't tell where the ground outputs were but makes sense now.

This is a solid unit, have been looking at it since your install so finding it with the diff fuses really fits my needs.

Im waiting on confirmation the outputs for this specific model are in fact 4awg, if so Im good to go!

Should be ordering it over the weekend....got a few more items on the order and can get to Phase 3 of the upgrade by mid month hopefully!
 

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@Julian Im not sure that I want to chance using 8awg on these amps, I have to imagine they wouldn't be getting full power from 8 vs 4awg.

Im waiting on vendor to confirm these are indeed 4awg which Im hoping and that seals it for me.

I'll be running 4 amps, and 3 of them have 80 amp fusees so I dont want to use 8awg even though the run is short....Ive come this far (spent enough) whats a lil more effort to make sure Im getting each of these amps sufficiently powered.

If in fact its not a biggie then Im open to it, but a reducer might be my other option, but thats not my first choice.
 

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robert843

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Based on Jullian’s chart I would possibly consider running two zero gauge power wires to two blocks his chart is recommending double zero wire at 200 amps and I’m not 100% sure but I thought once before someone told the max recommended amps on zero gauge was in the 240 range so you maybe shorting your amplifiers on power with that set up anyway. I’m not electrian or electrical engineer though so I could be very wrong it wouldn’t be the first time lol.
 

Mainah

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Based on Jullian’s chart I would possibly consider running two zero gauge power wires to two blocks his chart is recommending double zero wire at 200 amps and I’m not 100% sure but I thought once before someone told the max recommended amps on zero gauge was in the 240 range so you maybe shorting your amplifiers on power with that set up anyway. I’m not electrian or electrical engineer though so I could be very wrong it wouldn’t be the first time lol.
Somehow I missed the insane power that @Jaylex is going to be pulling down. 250 amps real world pull down at max since the amps are fused above what a normal max draw would be. If the gain is not turned up to its full poentional and using jl audio on knuknoceptz 0 awg then likey ok. If expecting to max out the amps then @robert843 is spot on. Perhaps consider mounting one of the amps in the battery compartment if there is any room left. Might want to consider distributing the batteries between both sides given the weight so not always listed to one side.

Amps plus batteries plus speakers plus wire may equal surfable ballast weight.
 

adrianp89

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I think this is a little easier to read (from crutch field)- he should be fine with 0 gauge. I have done some pretty serious cars with just a single run of 0 gauge (also done 4 runs of it lol)



And a more detailed mathematic breakdown directly from JL techs (@Mainah this is up your alley):

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/209635477-Selecting-the-Proper-Size-Power-Wire

With that said, I have 2 4 gauge runs and will make a 0 gauge run when I add in tower speakers.

And most importantly - music is dynamic. VERY rarely will you be pulling full amperage, and if you do it is for a split second.
 

Jaylex

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I'm thinking that as a potential item of concern at well @robert843. I checked with a few places including Odin @Earmark Marine who I bought the new equipment for phase 3 from, and he also said it should be fine.

I don't mind erring on the side of caution if needed though.

Was tryn to post pics once done but the info/advice on here is welcomed.

Soooooo

I love my current setup...8 MX650s off a 800/8, a pair of 880 towers off a 600/6, and 2 12w3s off a 1000/1

But figured why not make it louder and my initial preference was not to add another pair of towers (hit my head already and personal aesthetics) so I contacted JL support after I ended up getting the 7.7 fever when @Hector showed they fit and they suggested the M770s would be the noticeable increase I was looking for without needing towers.

I was then contemplating the running them @75rms on the 800/8 I have but then Odin gave me a sweet deal and my bday is in Aug so happy EARLY bday,lol

Ended up selling my eight MX650s to a member on here and bought eight M770s and a second 800/8 to throw each speaker 200rms.

So I'll have the 8 M770s @200rms, the 880 towers @200rms, and the 2 12s @ 1000rms, just about 3K watts.

@adrianp89 thanks for posting that graphic, I think it does suggest I would be ok, and for some reason I think these JL amps run pretty efficient but I do wanna make sure everything is done right.

As long as that block will do 4awg outputs I think Im solid.

Just need to buy a new set of batteries, but will see how the 2 I have now hold up ,but expect to swap them out for 3 group 29s before memorial day if I get any sense this wouldnt work.
 

adrianp89

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That is going to be one loud boat, def need 4 880 towers though.
 

Jaylex

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Dont tempt me, lol.... that's phase 4, but that was not one I wanted....my preference was to only have a single set of towers since I have hit my head already and dont wakeboard or need it to project that far...that being said I was supposed to stop at phase 2 with the towers, so never say never....but thats NOT the plan....Fiance has been surprisingly supportive of the upgrade, BUT did mention no more towers...so this was my compromise, lol

With this much surface area (20% over 6.5s), better speaker, tweeter, etc and double the power fingers crossed I should be smiling.

Ordering the starboard spacers and the other vents I need.

Should have it all installed round 3rd week of the month. Cant wait!

A few years back when I had my 2011 242LS I now believe I heard a guy with either M770s or M880s...needless to say you don't need a tower to own a cove with those...wasnt a Yamaha...but even with HLCD towers and a ported 15, he EASILY shut me and the guy next to me down and it wasnt even close.
 

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I agree it should be fine just was tossing it out there. I'm currently running outside of the chart as I'm running 165 fused amps with three out puts at about 15 ft with a 4 gauge knukoncetz wire and no issues so far. What this does make me think about though now is I wonder how many amps the wire is really throwing to the amplifiers I wounder if I'm starving my set up a little.
 

Jaylex

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See thats actually what got me thinking about this @robert843 ....wasnt sure if splitting off the 0awg was enough juice to support the 4 amps.

From what Ive seen so far, and those Ive spoken to I think it should be fine.

That link to Jl Audio on how to calculate the amp draw gives me apprx. 200-270 amps depending on how I do the math, but the 200 was @50% us....I prob will want to play it for 2+hr stretches here and there but, I dont expect to play it at 90% volume for sustained periods on a regular basis...that would cause me to loose my hearing much faster, lol
 

Hector

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I agree it should be fine just was tossing it out there. I'm currently running outside of the chart as I'm running 165 fused amps with three out puts at about 15 ft with a 4 gauge knukoncetz wire and no issues so far. What this does make me think about though now is I wonder how many amps the wire is really throwing to the amplifiers I wounder if I'm starving my set up a little.
I just added another 4 gauge wire when I installed my third amp. The distribblock I linked above has 2 4gauge inputs.
Both 4 gauge wires to a single anl fuse holder by the batteries.
Saved me a bunch of money on wire.
 

Lion

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Dont tempt me, lol.... that's phase 4, but that was not one I wanted....my preference was to only have a single set of towers since I have hit my head already and dont wakeboard or need it to project that far...that being said I was supposed to stop at phase 2 with the towers, so never say never....but thats NOT the plan....Fiance has been surprisingly supportive of the upgrade, BUT did mention no more towers...so this was my compromise, lol

With this much surface area (20% over 6.5s), better speaker, tweeter, etc and double the power fingers crossed I should be smiling.

Ordering the starboard spacers and the other vents I need.

Should have it all installed round 3rd week of the month. Cant wait!

A few years back when I had my 2011 242LS I now believe I heard a guy with either M770s or M880s...needless to say you don't need a tower to own a cove with those...wasnt a Yamaha...but even with HLCD towers and a ported 15, he EASILY shut me and the guy next to me down and it wasnt even close.
I agree with Adrianp89. You should get the second pair of 880 towers... just do it...lol
I’m sure your fiancé won’t mind...:winkingthumbsup"
 
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