Dual battery charger.

[Dean P]

Not sure what type of batteries. Good idea about LED.

This is what I installed. Drilled a hole and siliconed in place (above the rub rail). Love it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2GTHDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Advance]

This is what I installed. Drilled a hole and siliconed in place (above the rub rail). Love it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2GTHDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



View attachment 92051

Why did you install six of these lights? Figured 1 light per battery would suffice.

 

[Dean P]

Why did you install six of these lights? Figured 1 light per battery would suffice.

Technically you only need 1 (since it's hooked up to the switch). I figured on both sides of the boat and almost any angle. Really liked the look too!

 

[Mainah]

For boats that have any real draw with the batteries on including intermittent draw I would not recommend leaving the batteries on even with a charger. Smart chargers are designed with a few stages. The first stage is bulk charging mode until reaching a specific voltage, The second phase float charging once will will occur for a fixed amount of time or until a high upper limit is reached. The final phase is monitoring where it will be sending no power but monitor the voltage to see if it needs to go into bulk or float mode. Iniating a draw or having a constant draw will mean the charger will spend more time in the first two modes when the battery is really already topped off. This will degrade the service life and per cycle capacity to a degree. That said if there is a critical reason to leave the batteries on like for a bilge pump then do it. I prefer direct wire inline fuse float switch bilges that bypass the battery switches and test mine periodically.

 

[Advance]

I am installing a Minnkota MK-345PC along with the through hull plug adapter. It’s a 3-bank charger. I wanted the 3rd bank in case I add a battery later. I’m a little worried I didn’t just go with ProMariner like most have on this forum. But the MK has 15 amp per battery. Also the display seemed easier to understand. I look forward to some peace of mind about the batteries. Thanks for all your comments.

 

[Advance]

Here’s the setup. A 3 bank, 15 amp per bank setup. Only using 2 banks for now. 3rd is if needed down the road.

 

[cbpagent72]

I am installing a Minnkota MK-345PC along with the through hull plug adapter. It’s a 3-bank charger. I wanted the 3rd bank in case I add a battery later. I’m a little worried I didn’t just go with ProMariner like most have on this forum. But the MK has 15 amp per battery. Also the display seemed easier to understand. I look forward to some peace of mind about the batteries. Thanks for all your comments.

I went with the MinnKota as well.

 

[jb32566]

i have the Minn Kota MK220 (2 bank, 10A each) I will will post pics later. i'm waiting for circuit breakers from amazon for between the ACR and the battery. i've looked around and they don't seem to be included in people schematics here.
i went with a pair of these. Amazon.com: 100A Inline Audio Circuit Breaker, PowMr Solar 12V/24V DC Circuit Breaker 100 amp with Manual Reset, Inline Fuse Holder for DC Car Audio, Stereo Switch and Solar System(2 Pack): Automotive
i'm going with 4 gauge wire and no bus bar, just a common battery ground, but i have a small boat with a single engine. the 2nd battery is just to make sure i don't get stranded after blasting music all day.

 

[cbpagent72]

This is the circuit breaker I used.

 

[jb32566]

This is the circuit breaker I used.

When the ones I mentioned above arrived, they just felt cheap so I decided to not be cheap and just get 2 stingers. My install is 90% complete. once i finish up I'll post a writeup that I've been working on. Thanks for the nudge to get the stingers instead.

 

[tabbibus]

this is a great thread! I'm finally getting access to power so will be hooking up a charger. Torn between the NOCO genius and the Promariner.

@Advance I have the same boat as you, I don't think that solar charger does squat! ha.

My boat came with this DVSR set up. I haven't changed anything. I've read there needs to be some modding to it to get the chargers to work. Is that correct @swatski @Mainah ?

 

[tabbibus]

I have the same set up as well with charger and plug. I actually just ordered a 3 bank charger, so will have the ProMaster 2 bank up for sale soon.

did you sell it?

 

[Mainah]

this is a great thread! I'm finally getting access to power so will be hooking up a charger. Torn between the NOCO genius and the Promariner.

@Advance I have the same boat as you, I don't think that solar charger does squat! ha.

My boat came with this DVSR set up. I haven't changed anything. I've read there needs to be some modding to it to get the chargers to work. Is that correct @swatski @Mainah ?

View attachment 96637

My mod is to clip the red loop wire on dvsr. Find the hot end and cap it then take the other end and connect to end on wire other side of the engine compartment wall. This ensures always charging as separate batteries by inly combining when engine is on.

I have changed up my setup slightly. When I turn on the batteries I also turn combine on. I have two group 31agms one start and one house (both brand new warranty replacements this year at the same time). This splits my heavy audio amps, ballast pumps, and inverter load between the two with far less voltage drop and not over taxing just the house which led to the original group 31 agms demise (continuous load about 50 amps on house and swapped start house each season). I keep a jump pack on board just in case but has handled 4 hours floating, playing music at a moderate level, and the inverter (low duty cycle) much better than before. I shut off all the battery switches when pluged in on the lift with a dual bank charger so they still charge as two separate banks where if the red loop was not clipped they would not. Ideally I would have a 3rd dedicated start battery but don’t want to give up the space and dont want the added weight.

I highly recommend two group 31 for heavy continuous loads. Bass does not drop off at high volume due to voltage drop and I can run all my pumps at the same time with nominal voltage drop.

I considered building my own custom lifep04 battery with dedicated start backup section and bms but even done right with a lot of effort there is still a small chance of a single cell thermal run away. That chance makes it not worth it for me.