Fixed the rotating key switch issue. 2007 - 2009 SX230, AR230, 232 Limited

[Bruce]

@Mainah, @Betik, do you think this mod would fit on your boats?

 

[Mainah]

I think it would but not an issue on 2015 plus 240/242 as has a separate dash face plate that the key switches are mounted to. Nice job with the fix. Really need to get myself a 3d printer or cnc mill someday.

 

[Betik]

@Bruce I am not sure if it works the 2010-2014 models. Is there something I can could check to verify if it works or not ?

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce I am not sure if it works the 2010-2014 models. Is there something I can could check to verify if it works or not ?

Perhaps center to center measurement of the key switch separation and take a picture of the back of that panel from inside the helm?

Or you could print one and see if it fits.

 

[tdonoughue]

Apparently today I pulled a @Scottintexas . Maybe it is a Texas thing.

Had the spinning switch problem since I put in the trim tabs (and connected the controller to the ignition switch for the ig wire). New driver in the boat, so I reached back behind the switch, grabbed a pliers and told the kid to tighten up the nut. Which he did. Snap.

Turns out the nut was cross threaded on the switch. So as he turned, it got more cross threaded until it was just turning the switch and snapped off exactly as @Scottintexas shows above. Exactly. Though, I didn't find any of the metal parts (they are behind the helm, I'm sure).

So then. No way in h3ll I am going to be dropping $250 on a new set of switches. To the questions:
1) @Scottintexas , is you super glue solution still working?
2) Anyone try the alternate switches above? I like $35 or $10 better than $250...
3) Other ideas?

Also, while messing with this, I think I figured out why the stupid things spin. I think that there needs to be a washer or two between the switch and the back side of the helm. There is a flat part on the switch that is supposed to fit in the flat part of the hole. And it does. But I think they made the switch so it sits too far through the hole and the flat part of the switch no longer is at the opening--it is all sticking through, leaving the rounded part closer to the switch sticking out the hole. I think 4 washers (2 on each switch) solves this problem.

But the printed solution looks very cool, @Bruce.

Thanks, all.

 

[Scottintexas]

my glue is holding good, I've only started the boat twice since install, I believe the new support box holds them firmly in place and I tighten the nut on the good switch a little tighter and it holds them both firmly

 

[biglar155]

I am torn. It is useful information and would only take a few minutes to figure it out on most boats. If we want to secure our boats we really need a kill switch somewhere.

Heck, just take the nickles off of the clean-out tray switches and put 'em in your pocket. Now you can leave the keys in it. She'll NEVER start for someone else. (Just don't spend 'em on ice-cream or you'll be stuck where you are.)

 

[Bruce]

@tdonoughue, If you can glue yours back together I think that you would benefit from the plastic pieces.

If you have access to a 3D printer I would be happy to send you the design file for the part that @Scottintexas and I are using to lock the key switches in place. If not and you would like one lets work something out on shipping.

I did not notice the lack of flat mating on the back side of the panel but the curvature on the front certainly was an issue. That may be a 230 versus 240 difference.

 

[tdonoughue]

Looks like @Scottintexas has me all hooked up, but thanks, @Bruce. I agree that the glue with the plastic taking the load off is probably the winner solution. Gonna try that.

And, publicly, thanks @Scottintexas for all the DM help!

 

[Bruce]

Looks like @Scottintexas has me all hooked up, but thanks, @Bruce. I agree that the glue with the plastic taking the load off is probably the winner solution. Gonna try that.

And, publicly, thanks @Scottintexas for all the DM help!

Perfect. Not sure if Scott is sending you some of the extra parts that I had sent him. If he is I am uncertain if the washers will fit your dash. If not we might rope @Betik in for some testing since he has a newly acquired printer and I do not have a 240.

 

[tdonoughue]

Reporting in... just back from the boat trying to fix the switch situation.

When we last left our hero, we had this:

First, I glued the broken piece on. Turns out the super glue I brought was all dried out. So I used the epoxy I carry on board. @Scottintexas and @Bruce hooked me up with Bruce's magic 'stop the switches from rotating' block thingy. They fit the switches perfectly!

Unfortunately, it seems that on my year boat the switches are just a liiiiittle bit closer together than Bruce's:

Plus, the block was too big to fit in the opening in the fiberglass. I figured if I could get the middle of the block to sit against the plate and the rest to sit against the fiberglass, it would work. I didn't have any of the preferred tools for such a job, so I tried with my drill...

holes first, then used a needle nose pliers to snap off those sections:

Cleaned it up with a box cutter knife. After several more holes, pliers work and cutting, I got to this:

I wasn't sure how I would get the switches closer together to fit into the holes in the plate, but fate took care of that. The part I epoxied on fell right off. With that part off, the switches fit into the hole in the plate. Now, the block fit in the hole in the fiberglass (as you can see), but then the switches did not line up with the hole in the plate. So, back to the drill...

Feel bad ruining all of Bruce's good work, but not so bad that I didn't do it. This version worked!

I used a zip tie to affix the broken switch into the box. The box is held in by the good switch's nut. Both keys turn and do so very nice and solidly. A win!

Oh, and remember what I said about the washer being able to fix the rotation? Yeah, nevermind. Got a closer look at it, and I was all wet.

Thanks to Scott and Bruce for the help! End of report.

 

[Bruce]

@tdonoughue, glad you got it working.

Do you happen to have caliper to take measurements? If so I would be happy to draw a version for the 240.

Although it may be best to leave yours together.

 

[tdonoughue]

I don't think I have a caliper, but my son may... I will have to check. I think I can measure what is needed without removing everything. Even with removing things, now that it is all trimmed and the one is zip tied in, removing means just one nut...

 

[Bruce]

I believe that the measurements that I need are center to center for the key switches, width of the gap that it needs to fit through and depth of the block that needs to be narrow to fit through the gap.

This product might hold the piece that fell off. It worked for Scott.

Super Glue

Ideal for quick repairs and tight fitting surfaces

www.loctiteproducts.com

 

[tdonoughue]

Ok. I know I have a runout caliper for brakes; maybe I can fashion something with that. If not, it is probably something I should have in the toolbox anyway, right? Sounds like I need to buy a tool! I'll tell the boss.

Yes, I haven't given up totally on the glue. However, until the box fits, not having that piece glued on gets me on the water with much more secure switches. So it will probably stay off until the off-season. Don't worry--I didn't throw it away. (The boss will tell you I never throw anything away...)

 

[scokill]

I just wedged a piece of steel tubing in between the key switches. I think it's 1/2" I was thinking about welding a custom piece and a couple of screws but not worth the bother. I'm for easy solutions.

 

[tdonoughue]

<slight fanfare> I now have a caliper.

On my 2012 AR240, for the ignition switches:
56.9mm outside of hole to outside of hole, laterally
16.4mm inside of hole to inside of hole, laterally
20.3mm lateral hole diameter
18.4mm vertical hole diameter
1.7mm plate thickness (but I could only measure at the edge, not at the hole, but I think it is the same)
9.0mm fiberglass thickness on the starboard side of the mounting hole
5.8mm fiberglass thickness on the port side
8.3mm fiberglass thickness on the bottom
78mm width of the opening in the glass near the bottom (where the switches are)
The little bump on the starboard side of the hole is about 38mm vertically
The width near the top of the opening is 75.5mm

Hope that helps!

 

[Bruce]

@tdonoughue, was the square hole that prevents the key switch spinning the correct size or over sized?

It seeks that your key switches are smaller than the 230 versions.

 

[tdonoughue]

It's oversized. The narrower, flat part (the vertical measurement) will actually fit into the threads on the switch. Wait. I have a caliper! Gimme a sec.

 

[tdonoughue]

Flat part of the switch is 17.5mm. Wide part is 19.2mm (on the threads). So there is basically a millimeter keeping it from spinning. I think between the barrel flexing (I got it down to 18.9mm pushing the caliper) and the threads digging into the plate, the thing spins.