Fixed the rotating key switch issue. 2007 - 2009 SX230, AR230, 232 Limited

[FLJetBoater]

Thanks to @Mainah for pointing me to this thread. I just had my ignition switch stop working and upon investigation the wires in the back were wound so tightly that it had actually pulled one out of the harness. Rewired it and back in business but definitely looking into one of these solutions to stop this from happening again.

 

[FLJetBoater]

I am torn. It is useful information and would only take a few minutes to figure it out on most boats. If we want to secure our boats we really need a kill switch somewhere.

Anyone who has looked at their key switches (at least mine for 2014) would realize pretty quick all it takes it swapping the key assembly (which is connected by a quick release attachment to the main wiring) to be able to insert their own key and start any Yamaha boat. Easily less than 30 seconds. I couldn’t believe how simple it was to swap them out when I was testing my port switch on the stbd engine.
So yes, I am in full agreement that some other hidden kill switch is needed

 

[FLJetBoater]

@Betik and I experimented with his same model 240 and found that the opening cut through the dash was highly variable. I arrived at this design which I believe should fit all 240s of your generation.

Happy to ship it to you for $20. If it does not fit send me pictures of the issue and we will find a solution. I will send send a message with my PayPal account.

View attachment 132809View attachment 132810

Will these work on the 2014 242LS? Seems like it would be the same series as you mentioned? If so I’d love one in black. Can you PM me to work out shipping etc

 

[Bruce]

Will these work on the 2014 242LS? Seems like it would be the same series as you mentioned? If so I’d love one in black. Can you PM me to work out shipping etc

Are you outside the US? If not shipping is not an issue.

@Jpace76 discovered that the key switches are positioned further apart on the 2013 240 series than on the 2010 to 2012 boats. You can see the wider version in this picture.


I expect that you would need the wider version.

If you order the 2010 to 2014 part from https://jetboaters.net/forums/3d-printed-parts.118/ I will print it in black for you. If it does not fit we can work on adjustments and I will send a replacement.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Are you outside the US? If not shipping is not an issue.

@Jpace76 discovered that the key switches are positioned further apart on the 2013 240 series than on the 2010 to 2012 boats. You can see the wider version in this picture.

View attachment 136321
I expect that you would need the wider version.

If you order the 2010 to 2014 part from https://jetboaters.net/forums/3d-printed-parts.118/ I will print it in black for you. If it does not fit we can work on adjustments and I will send a replacement.

No I’m in the US. 2014 242LS. I’ll check the thread.

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

I think it would but not an issue on 2015 plus 240/242 as has a separate dash face plate that the key switches are mounted to. Nice job with the fix. Really need to get myself a 3d printer or cnc mill someday.

Just bought a 2005 yamaha ar230. Put it in the marina. Went to start it up to charge the battery and had this issue on one key. I need to get the boat out of the water as it seems to have a slow leak...probably the drain plug assembly a mechanic suggested.

I was looking for a new key assembly when I saw this thread..100 per key.

Sounds that is not what I need. Can you sell me a set of your blue 3d printed parts?
Steve

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

@tdonoughue, glad you got it working.

Do you happen to have caliper to take measurements? If so I would be happy to draw a version for the 240.

Although it may be best to leave yours together.

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

Bruce, can I buy one of those blue 3d things for my 2005 ar230? Just bought it and first thing this happened.
Steve

 

[Bruce]

Bruce, can I buy one of those blue 3d things for my 2005 ar230? Just bought it and first thing this happened.
Steve

Steve, could you measure the center to center distance on your key switches? I need to understand the spacing for the 2005 models.

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

Steve, could you measure the center to center distance on your key switches? I need to understand the spacing for the 2005 models.

Thank you! I will get to the boat tomorrow and measure. Steve

 

[tdonoughue]

Bring your micrometer/caliper! The more exact you can be the better the result.

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

Bring your micrometer/caliper! The more exact you can be the better the result.

Ok, I do not have a micrometer, so I used a scale. 4.88 inches center to center.

Steve

 

[Bruce]

Ok, I do not have a micrometer, so I used a scale. 4.88 inches center to center.

That is radically different. Can you provide a picture of the back of the panel and the hole in the dash behind it?

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

That is radically different. Can you provide a picture of the back of the panel and the hole in the dash behind it?

Ok, might be a few days before I can get to it. Thanks.

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

Ok, might be a few days before I can get to it. Thanks.

 

[Lookingforajetboat]

View attachment 141623

There is the backside of my 2005 ar230 key set up. You can see the black square part has rotated. Sent via text also Bruce. Steve

 

[captainhook]

@Bruce thank you for the stl file. You saved a bunch of time and it was very generous to post it.

I printed it today in black PETG big side down before I read that you said to print the small side down with supports. It’s a little stringy inside compared to yours so I will need to do some cleanup. I am amazed you could print this in an hour though. My Ender 3 V2 took about 4.5 hours and didn’t come out as clean as yours. This is the second thing I’ve printed in PETG so it’s probably partially me and perhaps the cheap filament I bought.

 

[captainhook]

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce thank you for the stl file. You saved a bunch of time and it was very generous to post it.

I printed it today in black PETG big side down before I read that you said to print the small side down with supports. It’s a little stringy inside compared to yours so I will need to do some cleanup. I am amazed you could print this in an hour though. My Ender 3 V2 took about 4.5 hours and didn’t come out as clean as yours. This is the second thing I’ve printed in PETG so it’s probably partially me and perhaps the cheap filament I bought.

I believe my print time was closer to 2 hours. Currently I am printing four sequentially over 8 hours. My printers (CR-10S Pro and CR-10 Max) have E3D Hemera direct drive extruders which handle flexible filaments better but I sill have a little bit of imperfection where the supports were. PETG does not bridge well. Even with supports it can have issues. But it holds up well to impact and sunlight.

Ender 3s are a great value. Your print looks like it will work fine. Just remove what you need to to make the switches fit well. I print it upside down so that I can avoid that cleanup.

You can see where the supports were in this pic



This is where the printing gets hard. The tube is only two shells from a 0.25 nozzle to make a 0.5 wall thickness. They are printed sequentially, one at a time, to avoid stringing. They use very little material but take 22 minutes each.

 

[captainhook]

I believe my print time was closer to 2 hours. Currently I am printing four sequentially over 8 hours. My printers (CR-10S Pro and CR-10 Max) have E3D Hemera direct drive extruders which handle flexible filaments better but I sill have a little bit of imperfection where the supports were. PETG does not bridge well. Even with supports it can have issues. But it holds up well to impact and sunlight.

Ender 3s are a great value. Your print looks like it will work fine. Just remove what you need to to make the switches fit well. I print it upside down so that I can avoid that cleanup.

You can see where the supports were in this pic

View attachment 144958

This is where the printing gets hard. The tube is only two shells from a 0.25 nozzle to make a 0.5 wall thickness. They are printed sequentially, one at a time, to avoid stringing. They use very little material but take 22 minutes each.

View attachment 144960

I appreciate the info. I figured I'd be able to use it but this seems like an excuse to just flip the model and print it again

I got spoiled with PLA as I've been cranking stuff out left and right with zero issues, but I've run into a handful of issues thus far already with only three prints in PETG. I've been contemplating upgrades for my printer, including a direct drive extruder but I had it dialed in so well I didn’t want to mess with it.