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Found this on the "other" site about MFI trailer brakes

I'm going to put brakes back on it next spring but how do I bleed the brakes on a trailer?

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Brake-Bleeding-Instructions/

Find a funnel that fits tight in the top of the master cyl. That way you can fill the funnel half way with brake fluid to augment the fluid capacity of the tiny master cyl. You don't want to suck it dry or you will need to start over. I also find it helpful to remove the bleeder valves and put grease on the threads. This seals out air, makes them easier to open and close while bleeding and makes them easier to remove in a few years.
 
Anyone know how much to torque the wheels on these MFI trailers? I torqued to 100ft.lbs., but for some reason I feel that is not enough.

100 Ft Lb's is correct.
 
I talked to MFI about the trailer brakes a couple of weeks ago. The calipers are cheap Chinese knock offs of the UFP DB35 so that is why they don't say UFP on them. Mine rusted away after 5 years and were not worth rebuilding when new aluminum ones are $60.

The rotors/hubs are UFP DB35s and I was able to re-use them. The master cyl was shot because I think it got water in it because the 2" cover was missing. If you pull the actuator shaft and it has brake fluid/rust on the end, it is bad. It was also UFP. I spent $150 for 2 aluminum calipers w/ pads and a new master. Good as new now.

@Smassey22180
I have a 2007 yamaha with an MFI galvanized trailer with brake problems. This is the style where they did not use rubber lines to calipers, just coiled the tubbing to give flex. Is it safe to say i have the same UFP DB35? is there any measure measurements?

on this repair i know i will need for sure;
caliper,
hub with rotor,
brake fluild,
brakes,
mounting bolts to axle
possible actuator.

Any part numbers or other info would be awesome.
 
Last edited:
@Smassey22180, I just did the brakes on my 2010 MFI trailer. I did calipers, pads, and a new brake line. I used calipers and pads for a 1990 Chevrolet Cavilier. Believe it or not, it's pretty much the same parts that are on the trailer. I had the dealership where I bought my boat from bleed the brake system. Considered bleeding the brakes myself, but it is a royal p.i.t.a. In addition, my trailer needed new leaf springs and two new rear tires. You know the acronym for boat, "break out another thousand", well that's exactly what the repairs cost me and it was worth it. No way could I have done the leaf springs myself and forget about bleeding the brakes. So, go to a local parts store and order your parts and if your up to it, bleed the brakes.
 
Bleeding the brakes is very easy. There is small hole under the trailer tongue to stick a screwdriver through. It lets you push the brake actuator rod in. Then bleed as you would a car. Cam.
 
If you are shopping this weekend on pacific trailer use coupon code LDVIP16 for 15% off. I just received the email tonight.
 
For the ppl buying car calipers aren't they gonna fall to pieces from rust. The calipers for boat trailers are made for salt water. Cars not so much. Correct me if I'm wrong
 
Cars, at least those here in the Northeast deal with salt on the roads winter after winter. I don't think these calipers will fail on trailers.
 
@Smassey22180
I have a 2007 yamaha with an MFI galvanized trailer with brake problems. This is the style where they did not use rubber lines to calipers, just coiled the tubbing to give flex. Is it safe to say i have the same UFP DB35? is there any measure measurements?

on this repair i know i will need for sure;
caliper,
hub with rotor,
brake fluild,
brakes,
mounting bolts to axle
possible actuator.

Any part numbers or other info would be awesome.

I called MFI and they told me all their Yamaha trailers from that era use either DB35s or knock offs of the DB35s.

My brakes were also hard lined. I purchased the aluminum calipers from here http://www.pacifictrailers.com/trailer-buddy-parts-complete-kits/ They come with pads already installed. I would be surprised if your trailer did not have DB35s. My past 3 boat trailers all had them. You probably need a master cyl also. Check the fluid. If it is orange, replace the master. Make sure to get the one that supports your electric valve that disables braking while reversing. http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-34762-Disc-Brake-Master-Cylinder-for-use-w/solenoid/
 
I called MFI and they told me all their Yamaha trailers from that era use either DB35s or knock offs of the DB35s.

My brakes were also hard lined. I purchased the aluminum calipers from here http://www.pacifictrailers.com/trailer-buddy-parts-complete-kits/ They come with pads already installed. I would be surprised if your trailer did not have DB35s. My past 3 boat trailers all had them. You probably need a master cyl also. Check the fluid. If it is orange, replace the master. Make sure to get the one that supports your electric valve that disables braking while reversing. http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-34762-Disc-Brake-Master-Cylinder-for-use-w/solenoid/


Thank you for the information. did you change out the brake lines to a flexable style? The whole system might be trashed. I am not sure yet. Going to try and tear into in next weekend
 
Thank you for the information. did you change out the brake lines to a flexable style? The whole system might be trashed. I am not sure yet. Going to try and tear into in next weekend

I reused my lines. The nuts were a bit rusty but I was able to make them work with a flare nut wrench. My trailer has a single flexible line down to the axle. Everything on the axle is solid lines.
 
It all rusted. Threw it all away. My 2500 stops faster pulling the boat with no breaks faster than my old 1500 did without pulling the boat. Eventually gonna replace the whole system probably in the spring but Im going on 4 years without them.

@Marvin willis, did your calipers fail because of salt water use or water intrusion into the calipers?
 
I just want to get the trailer where i can legally tow it. It only gets towed 5 miles to the ramp. Texas just started trailer inspections before you can get it registered. It technically is under the limit for brakes with the boat on the trailer, but its damn close. Trying to convince an inspector it does not need them legally when it came with them i am sure impossible. Same as @Marvin willis, I have a F250 and no problem stopping it. allways towing something alot heavier that the breaks dont work to good on, but they pass inspection...:mad:
 
My original calipers were not real DB35s. They were knock offs that MFI got from China. The calipers had not actually failed. I needed pads, dust covers and new pistons. The complete new parts were not much more $$$.
I just want to get the trailer where i can legally tow it. It only gets towed 5 miles to the ramp. Texas just started trailer inspections before you can get it registered. It technically is under the limit for brakes with the boat on the trailer, but its damn close. Trying to convince an inspector it does not need them legally when it came with them i am sure impossible. Same as @Marvin willis, I have a F250 and no problem stopping it. allways towing something alot heavier that the breaks dont work to good on, but they pass inspection...:mad:

Good luck convincing an inspector. 230s look a lot heavier than they are :). What are the limits in TX? 230s + a trailer are over 4000 lbs.
 
limit is 4500Lbs.... Its right on it. I took the boat and trailer to a scale. it was 4300 and some change if i remember right. But i think the fuel was damn near empty.
 
In NC any dual axle trailer requires brakes but I could care less. It's not a law that is enforced. Hell, most trailers here aren't even registered.
 
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