Lets back up just a bit...did you flush the motors and let them set for some time? And have you run them at all since you discovered the milky oil? Even just a little? The reason I ask, is this...the way water can get into the engine when you flush it wrong is like this: When the engine isn't running but the water is, then water is flowing into the cooling system and will fill the exhaust section of the plumbing. It is still flowing out through the exhaust but it is backing up faster than it is flowing out...so it can back up into any open exhaust valve and fill the cylinder with water on top of the piston. So when you crank the engine, water won't compress and has nowhere to go after the valves are all closed and something has to give...either a piston rod or valve stem. Personally Wake, you would have to fill that puppy up a bunch to do that I would think. Now, I think what ONAGER is saying is that it might be possible if you flushed with the motor shut down and stored the boat, that water could theoretically seep past the rings and into the crank case. I suppose it is possible but I think unlikely. I think the easy way to find out is to just pull the spark plugs and lanyard and crank it without it starting. If any water remained in the engine, it would spit it out the spark plug holes. If none came out, then you could go one step further to confirm no water had been in the combustion chamber by looking into the cylinders to confirm no rust or contamination. You can do that with a small skinny light on a stick you can get at an auto parts store. Now, if that reveals nothing significant, and you are sure your oil is very milky, water had to get into it from one of two other ways...either through the head of the engine or in the oil tank where the heat exchanger (a radiator that allows water to flow through the coils inside an oil bath to cool the oil). You have seen the head cover during spark plug changes, after you removed the air filter to change plugs, is a cover over the valves and if the gasket between the valve cover and the head has a leak or the cooling line that literally runs through the head cover, and past the gasket into the water passages in the engine. This engine is pretty sophisticated the way it is cooled and that is why the flushing is important because it is possible to fill it with water where water can not be. I don't think you did that. I think it would be unlikely that water sat in your engine long enough to erode the piston rings to get into the crank case enough to do any damage there. But whatever water is there needs to be removed by cranking with the spark plugs removed and the lanyard pulled (so the engine will not try to start and you don't damage the electrical system). If that is of no consequence, and I believe it won't be...then you need to run that engine. But...you also need to get as much of the bad oil out as possible first, then run it, then change the oil again, then run it, then change again. Still...you have not found the culprit for the milky oil yet however. If it was a result of flushing or washing down the engine somehow, then the water from that is gone and won't continue. If you have a leak in the other components I described, then it will. I hope this sheds a little light...and if I am unclear or off in any way guys, jump in here. Wake, if it were me, I would do what I described...if I didn't see an improvement right away after draining as much oil as I could and running it for a little while and then changing again, I would be looking to someone that could diagnose better than myself. Hang in there brother!
