FSH 190 Won't Start - (Engine turns over)

[Akwoolf]

Edit: Issue Resolved. Read through the thread if you are running into a similar issue.

Hey guys-

2016 FSH that turns over, but won't start...

* Behavior seems to be the same as when the lanyard/cut-off is pulled. (It is in!)
* Checked connections behind the console and everything looks good.
* Battery strength is good. All connections tight.
* All accessories operate as they should.
* Pulled spark plugs and they don't appear to be fouled.
* Motor has less than 50 hours.
* Checked fuse block in engine compartment. All fuses look good. (Edited for prosperity: Originally the boat would not crank at all. The main fuse was blown and replaced recently. After that, the boat was able to crank, but not start)
* Filled tank with fresh fuel after pulling out of storage for the winter.
* One other thing that seems a bit odd, but not sure - the RPM gauge is stuck on 8. Doesn't move. I seemed to remember that it would rotate back and forth, but that may be after it is started

Thinking about the whole internal combustion thing, I think about spark, fuel, and air.

Could this be an issue with fuel? I am not sure where/if there is a fuel filter to check. Even when turning it over for 15-20 seconds, I don't really smell gas. If I knew of a place to spray starter fluid, I would even try that. (haa)

My gut tells me that I am missing something simple, but I am not sure. I have lurked in this forum for the past few years and have been able to find some really good information and tips, so after spending the last few nights double and triple checking what seems obvious, here I am...

 

[Grassman]

Safety switch somewhere. Maybe clean out hatch not all the way down. But just a guess

 

[Akwoolf]

I believe that the engine wouldn't turn over at all if the hatch is opened. (I think that it would be the same behavior as if it were not in neutral.) In this case, the engine turns over. That being said, I am racking my brain trying to think about another safety switch that acts similar to the safety lanyard being pulled....

 

[jet_fun]

Hi
I recall i had that issue on my 190 the first season i owned it. For me it was a loosly attached ignition lanyard. Not sure if this will solve for you but try to pull off the lanyard black clip and squeeze the two ends together so it makes a tighter fit when snapped back into the ignitikn kill switch.

 

[dlkhmk]

I’ve had a few instances when she would turn over just fine, but wouldn’t start. Every time I went through my checks and after messing with the lanyard cut-off switch it would start right up. Double check that first.

You can also pull up on the plunger by hand to make sure the cut-off is getting a good connection inside. Then if she starts you know where the problem is.

 

[Earfixr]

Pop the air cleaner cover open and spray some starting fluid while she turns over. That should confirm your spark vs fuel issues pretty quick.

 

[Matts18]

It seems odd that your tachometer is "stuck on 8". The gauges on my boat cycle all the way from zero to max and back to zero when the starter is bumped. I have not tried but I would imagine it would do this regardless of whether the lanyard is attached. I might try disconnecting the battery and unplugging the ECU (not sure where it is located) for a few minutes.

 

[Akwoolf]

I appreciate the suggestions. I plan to look at things again later this afternoon and will provide an update afterwards...

 

[Akwoolf]

Quick update - I tested starting the engine while holding the lanyard/shutoff plunger up. Same results. No difference in the sound or pitch of the engine. For good measure, I also changed out the fuel pump fuse, just in case it was faulty and I just couldn't tell.

Thinking back to the tachometer being stuck on 8 - I think that it may be a symptom of some other electrical issue. I wouldn't mind trying out the reset of the ECU - if someone could tell me where exactly it is located. (I'll do some more searching until I hear from one of the knowledgeable members here.)

As for the ol' starter fluid trick... I am not quite to that level yet - if I need to do that, I may need some advice as to the best input location for the magical spray.

--> Is someone able to validate the behavior of the tach when the boat ignition is off and the behavior when it cranks? As I mentioned previously, it seems like it actually used to move when I cranked the engine (maybe not, but I am paranoid at this point). Also, are the M and T buttons supposed to be operational when the engine is not running?

 

[JDinfla]

When you turn over the engine the tach and speedometer both go to 50 and 8 then come back to zero. If it starts then the than the tach of course goes to the engine RPM. When you bump the starter you can use the M&T buttons for a short period of time.

 

[JDinfla]

Did you disconnect your batteries when you had it out for the winter?

 

[Akwoolf]

Yep. Batteries always disconnected and kept on a trickle charger.

My tach is stuck at 8 and never moves. Looking around to see if there are any other fuses (etc) that would affect that specifically. Disconnected and reconnected tell connections on the back side.

Seems like everything else electrical is functioning properly.

Thanks for the assistance. The investigation continues...

 

[Akwoolf]

Photo of the tach... Apologies for the reflection.

 

[JDinfla]

If there's any chance at all that a wire might not have gotten hooked back up to the right terminal when you put your batteries back in then post a picture of your battery terminals.

 

[Akwoolf]

I just covered her up for the evening, but the last thing that I did was re-check the battery terminals. (Removed the ground crossover from the house battery, etc.) An odd thing happened when I tried to crank it with the battery disconnected... Every time that I cranked it slightly, the tach gauge moved back towards zero (it was stuck at 8). After 5 quick turns, it was back to zero. Still no movement on the gauge after hooking everything back up. This had me thinking - is it possible that the batteries could be reading at 100% on the charger, and still have issues that would affect the actual starting of the engine? (Thinking out loud) The crank is really strong and isn't indicative of a dead battery... I have attached a photo of the batteries.

Is anyone aware of a way to reset the ECU with magical key turns or button pushes?

 

[Grover70]

Have you tried staring it with all three battery switches on yet? And if so, was there any change in crank strength?

 

[JDinfla]

Battery connections look good. If it turns over strong probably not batteries.

 

[Akwoolf]

Have you tried staring it with all three battery switches on yet? And if so, was there any change in crank strength?

Equally strong. The batteries have been on chargers over the past few nights as I have been troubleshooting (trickle charge) and both show 100%. Crank is really strong. Engine does everything but actually start. Almost as if the safety lanyard were pulled.

 

[Akwoolf]

Battery connections look good. If it turns over strong probably not batteries.

Thanks for validating.

 

[Grover70]

Battery connections look good. If it turns over strong probably not batteries.

Yes, I read that part. I would try literally everything including the things that I doubted would make a difference just to check them off the list. It's probably the least amount of effort to just turn all the battery switches on and see if there is any change. Helps to rule out things along the way. That's why the techs ask first: Is your computer on?