Has ANYBODY ever had freeze damage with a Yamaha jet boat?

[@JC!]

So no need to worry about clogging the MAP and O2 sensors in the intake system?

Nope, fogged my heavily modified FZS and my stock AR195 every single winter and have never had any issues, it's part of the maintenance in the service manual. Spray the Store-Rite in the engine breather hole in the intake til it sputters and you'll smell/see it in the exhaust. Then change the plugs every spring start up. Easy-peasy.

"Careful" revving is subjective and I've found it's not really needed, and we get really cold winters up here.

By careful, I just mean don't hold it wide open. These engines will rev just fine for brief blips to blow out water without any damage. IMO you'll never get all the water out by trying to drain it without revving.

 

[Judge]

Just something to put in the "for what it's worth" bucket...........

I just purchased the Service Manual for my '22 275SD and there isn't a word in it that I can find about winterizing the boat / engine or antifreeze. There are some diagrams for the cooling system that show components and water flow. In the legend it specifically points out components "for water draining when engine is stopped."

So the only place they talk about long term storage and blowing out the exhaust by revving the engines is in the Owners Manual. I think it is pretty safe to assume that you don't have to worry about the block freezing and cracking. But I will preface that by saying I think that assumes you have throughly flushed the engines so there are no blockages so water can drain out.

 

[jetboater4life]

Anyone else ever see what I am describing on their boat?

I have had that small amount of water in my bildge every year for the last 10 years and it has never caused any problems with the -40F MN winters we get.

 

[mwalker4]

Nonsense and more nonsense. Fogging the intake is perfectly safe for the Yamaha HO/SHO/SVHO engines and careful revving to clear the water out is also completely safe.

Agreed, I wasn't in the mood for arguing with him earlier. Here is the page from the Yamaha Service manual for Throttle Valve Lubrication.

 

[906Tony]

Now

Agreed, I wasn't in the mood for arguing with him earlier. Here is the page from the Yamaha Service manual for Throttle Valve Lubrication. View attachment 190289

Now you have me interested in checking the valve clearance on my engines. Looks relatively simple in that manual.
I definitely need to order a service manual!

 

[JakeTJCJ]

Here's a question for anyone who drystacks. I'm on Lanier in Atlanta in a dry stack facility. I plan on using my boat through out the season for the occasional fishing trip/restaurant cruise when the suns out and the weather stays around 50 plus. There isn't a way for me to rev the engines out of the water, as I return to the slip I remove the plugs and let them drain, then just send a text to the crew. Sometime within 24 hours they put the boat in my covered dryslip. I don't foresee any issues unless I see a long spell of below freezing weather. Which I guess if that is to happen I can call them and have them drop it in the maintenance rack and let me rev out any water.

Seems logical, right? Or am I crazy.

 

[Crob83]

Here's a question for anyone who drystacks. I'm on Lanier in Atlanta in a dry stack facility. I plan on using my boat through out the season for the occasional fishing trip/restaurant cruise when the suns out and the weather stays around 50 plus. There isn't a way for me to rev the engines out of the water, as I return to the slip I remove the plugs and let them drain, then just send a text to the crew. Sometime within 24 hours they put the boat in my covered dryslip. I don't foresee any issues unless I see a long spell of below freezing weather. Which I guess if that is to happen I can call them and have them drop it in the maintenance rack and let me rev out any water.

Seems logical, right? Or am I crazy.

I wouldn't worry about it, not like your in Canada?

 

[mwalker4]

And from the owners manual. Yes you rev the engine
.

 

[212s]

Seems logical, right?

Sounds about right for your climate.

 

[212s]

And from the owners manual. Yes you rev the engine

The funny thing is...I've revved the engine "carefully" on the trailer and found it doesn't get any more water out of the exhaust system than just the normal "fast idle" that happens when you start and idle the engines on the trailer for 10 seconds. Perhaps the revving is more for those who may have debris in their cooling system to ensure it's cleared?

 

[mwalker4]

The funny thing is...I've revved the engine "carefully" on the trailer and found it doesn't get any more water out of the exhaust system than just the normal "fast idle" that happens when you start and idle the engines on the trailer for 10 seconds. Perhaps the revving is more for those who may have debris in their cooling system to ensure it's cleared?

Agree, Could be a bit of overkill to clear blockages.

 

[CaptRedbeard]

I’m a little late to this thread. We discovered cracked blocks in both motors of our boat this fall after purchasing the boat this spring. I don’t have any explanation other than the previous owner neglected to blow the water out by revving the motors when winterizing. Same exact location on both engines - between the starter mount and the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately it is impossible to see this location without pulling the motor or some kind of camera held down on the side of the motor. As you can see in the photos, the water jacket has been leaking for a long time based on the scale/buildup on the outside of the block below the cracks.

The first photo is the starboard engine, the second and third photo are of the port engine. If anybody wants to know more I’m happy to elaborate on the repair process.

 

[Tex72]

Here's a question for anyone who drystacks. I'm on Lanier in Atlanta in a dry stack facility. I plan on using my boat through out the season for the occasional fishing trip/restaurant cruise when the suns out and the weather stays around 50 plus. There isn't a way for me to rev the engines out of the water, as I return to the slip I remove the plugs and let them drain, then just send a text to the crew. Sometime within 24 hours they put the boat in my covered dryslip. I don't foresee any issues unless I see a long spell of below freezing weather. Which I guess if that is to happen I can call them and have them drop it in the maintenance rack and let me rev out any water.

Seems logical, right? Or am I crazy.

The peace of mind, knowing you don’t have to worry about it, is worth blowing out the water (to me).
.

 

[Neutron]

I’m a little late to this thread. We discovered cracked blocks in both motors of our boat this fall after purchasing the boat this spring. I don’t have any explanation other than the previous owner neglected to blow the water out by revving the motors when winterizing. Same exact location on both engines - between the starter mount and the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately it is impossible to see this location without pulling the motor or some kind of camera held down on the side of the motor. As you can see in the photos, the water jacket has been leaking for a long time based on the scale/buildup on the outside of the block below the cracks.

The first photo is the starboard engine, the second and third photo are of the port engine. If anybody wants to know more I’m happy to elaborate on the repair process.

View attachment 190360View attachment 190361View attachment 190362

Looks like it was leaking for a while from the heavy staining
Reving the engine is to blow out excess water in the exhaust, these engines do not have a water pump so there is nothing pushing water out of the head or block. The engine is supposedly self draining so i dont know what caused your blocks to crack. @swatski had an engine (head i believe) crack, not sure if they ever gave a reason why.
If the coolant passages had blockages it could cause the engines to freeze if they dont drain properly.

 

[Judge]

I’m a little late to this thread. We discovered cracked blocks in both motors of our boat this fall after purchasing the boat this spring. I don’t have any explanation other than the previous owner neglected to blow the water out by revving the motors when winterizing. Same exact location on both engines - between the starter mount and the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately it is impossible to see this location without pulling the motor or some kind of camera held down on the side of the motor. As you can see in the photos, the water jacket has been leaking for a long time based on the scale/buildup on the outside of the block below the cracks.

The first photo is the starboard engine, the second and third photo are of the port engine. If anybody wants to know more I’m happy to elaborate on the repair process.

View attachment 190360View attachment 190361View attachment 190362

Neutron is right..... those blocks have been cracked and leaking for a while based on the amount of corrosion on the both blocks.

Either the previous owner wasn't flushing the blocks regularly and debris build-up hindered the self-draining... or maybe he had overheating issues.

 

[buckbuck]

@Seadeals had the same thing happen to him. I don't think it was freeze related. Perhaps he will add to the conversation.

 

[dgfreeze]

I’m a little late to this thread. We discovered cracked blocks in both motors of our boat this fall after purchasing the boat this spring. I don’t have any explanation other than the previous owner neglected to blow the water out by revving the motors when winterizing. Same exact location on both engines - between the starter mount and the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately it is impossible to see this location without pulling the motor or some kind of camera held down on the side of the motor. As you can see in the photos, the water jacket has been leaking for a long time based on the scale/buildup on the outside of the block below the cracks.

The first photo is the starboard engine, the second and third photo are of the port engine. If anybody wants to know more I’m happy to elaborate on the repair process.

View attachment 190360View attachment 190361View attachment 190362

I would be interested to know a little more about the repair process, regardless of what caused the damage. V'd out, welded up, I presume? Mig welded, TIG welded...?

 

[2kwik4u]

Looks like it was leaking for a while from the heavy staining
Reving the engine is to blow out excess water in the exhaust, these engines do not have a water pump so there is nothing pushing water out of the head or block. The engine is supposedly self draining so i dont know what caused your blocks to crack. @swatski had an engine (head i believe) crack, not sure if they ever gave a reason why.
If the coolant passages had blockages it could cause the engines to freeze if they dont drain properly.

@B0at1n had a similar leak in his rental if I remember right. Not sure what the cause was, but I remember it being near the starter.

 

[CaptRedbeard]

I would be interested to know a little more about the repair process, regardless of what caused the damage. V'd out, welded up, I presume? Mig welded, TIG welded...?

https://jetboaters.net/threads/port-engine-milky-oil-2006-ar210-mr1.38754/page-2#post-628309

Yep, V'd out with a dremel, then I JB welded. I was concerned with aluminum welding and the heat associated that it might warp the block and need to be re-decked. Obviously it was a big decision but the handful of examples of similar situations that I researched had good luck with JB weld. The other factor is that the crack is in the exterior water jacket and just needs to hold water pressure from the cooling passages and withstand hot/cold cycles.

 

[dgfreeze]

Wow, glad it's holding for ya! I would've probably tried TIG welding it after heating the whole block up pretty good, to reduce the chances of heat warping. I'll read up on your thread after work, when I've got more time.