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I would follow power and ground from the battery to the switch and look for a loose connection or a inline fuse. If your not getting power "too" the switch.
If power is to the switch but not the pump. I would think the switch was bad.
I would follow power and ground from the battery to the switch and look for a loose connection or a inline fuse. If your not getting power "too" the switch.
If power is to the switch but not the pump. I would think the switch was bad.
How much voltage should it read at the plug? I showed nothing at the switch but I traced the wires down and everything (aux/usb spot, ballast, dc power spot and no wake) go into the same plug. On the female side I assume coming from the battery I got .86 volts
How much voltage should it read at the plug? I showed nothing at the switch but I traced the wires down and everything (aux/usb spot, ballast, dc power spot and no wake) go into the same plug. On the female side I assume coming from the battery I got .86 volts
man, I have no clue. My boat does not have a ballast system. When it comes to electrical on these boats. @Mainah is the poster that comes to mind right away, and @tek4fun could tell us if he sees this.
man, I have no clue. My boat does not have a ballast system. When it comes to electrical on these boats. @Mainah is the poster that comes to mind right away, and @tek4fun could tell us if he sees this.
So, still trying to get the boat figured out. Took it to a guy that works on Yamaha Jet ski’s but for whatever reason he wasn’t able to get his diagnostic tool to recognize and communicate with the boat. I had no power at the ballast switch so I went to the back of the boat and found that I was getting 12V for power into the ballast module but nothing coming out of itto the pump or to the switch so I’m thinking I have a bad module. I ordered one that will be here on Friday. Anyone know where I can get some of the connectors/plugs to go on the pigtails or what the correct name of those are? I don’t want to splice them unless I have to. Hopefully when I get this installed it’ll fix the code. Meantime I scheduled an appointment with the local dealer but I can’t get in till August 14 and it’s $215 for an hour of diagnostic.
Well I replaced the ballast pump timer modulator and the ballast switch lit up. The switch is blinking twice which according to the manual means a high amp draw. When I move the switch to either the fill or empty I can hear the pump click but never stays on. The new modulator has the exact wires so I know that I hooked it up correctly. Has anyone had this issued before? Any help would be appreciated.