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Help with dvsr loop sense wire

I just bought this and will be hooking it up this weekend. The below picture doesnt look right. Only the black wire from the DVSR should go to the ground on the house. The other wire shouldn't be grounded.

image-jpg.5530
I cutted it and it didn't make a difference in the voltages at all.
 
Whats the reason for cutting the red wire in the first picture? @Kevin107
 
I hooked the black wire up to the neg on the starting battery. Does it make a difference?
Instructions say house battery but with the common negative it should not matter.
 
Whats the reason for cutting the red wire in the first picture? @Kevin107

To tie it into a circuit that is only hot when the boat is running so it will not parallel while charging from shore power.
 
I cutted it and it didn't make a difference in the voltages at all.

Have you tried just using a light bulb to rule out the meter?
 
I hooked the black wire up to the neg on the starting battery. Does it make a difference?
Tried that. Those 2 wires has nothing to do with the sense loop wire.
 
Have you tried just using a light bulb to rule out the meter?
Can you elaborate? I figured if there's voltage, it should light up a bulb.
 
To tie it into a circuit that is only hot when the boat is running so it will not parallel while charging from shore power.
I'm curious what does the dvsr do when both battery are charged?
" When charging stops and voltage falls, the DVSR will disengage, isolating the two batteries from each other."
Does that mean when it's disconnected or when the batteries are full?

So after the onboard charger fully charges the batteries, what happens?
What kind of voltage is the charger putting out when the batteries are fully charged?
 
The charger will bring the batteries above 12.7v and the DVSR will parallel them if it has power. The charger will then stop and any draw on the batteries will drop them back below 12.7v, disengaging the DVSR. The charger will still see the batteries as full at that point and leave them alone until the voltage drops sufficiently for it to do some work.
 
The charger will bring the batteries above 12.7v and the DVSR will parallel them if it has power. The charger will then stop and any draw on the batteries will drop them back below 12.7v, disengaging the DVSR. The charger will still see the batteries as full at that point and leave them alone until the voltage drops sufficiently for it to do some work.

Ugh...meant 13.7 volts. 12.7 is fully charged. The relay drops out at 12.8 volts.

Any luck with the light bulb test?
 
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Been busy with a friend's wedding. Haven't try yet. Hopefully, I'll have time to mess with it tomorrow.
 
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Had time to do some more troubleshooting and I think it's a defective unit. The red light is always on, even both batteries are at 12.5v. It's not supposed to engaged unless one of the battery is above 13.4.
Did the light bulb test and both ends of the loop sense cable lit up the bulb. I believe the dvsr is pulling power from the battery and always engaging.

Anyone know a customer service number for BEP that's not in Europe?
 
I would just email them at technical@bepmarine.com. They are in New Zealand so there may be some delay in the email round trip due to time zones.
 
Spoke to tech support and we both agreed that it's a defective unit. Called the dealer I bought the boat and they are sending me a new unit. Hopefully this will be taken care of this weekend.

After a week of reading on this dvsr stuff, I was wondering why don't we just connect the loop sense wire to the COM connection? When the switch is to OFF, there are no power there so the Dvsr shouldn't work, keeping the batteries isolated. Therefore the smart charger should work normally. When ready to hit the lake, put the switch to either to 1 or 2, which put power to COM, that will also activate the Dvsr to work normally. I know it's kind of the same as putting it on a switch. But this way, we only have to worry about 1 switch. I don't have a problem remembering putting this switch to off at the end of the day.
This is with the single switch with 1, 2, 1+2, and OFF I'm using.
I don't mind tapping it to the YDIS, but I'm afraid that it would activate the fuel pump (read few post regarding that) if the unit ever go bad again. If you read my posts, my defective unit caused both ends of the loop sense wire to have voltages. If that was to be tapped on EP2, wouldn't it activate something?
Are there are any risk/issues involve I'm not aware of when connecting it to COM? I'm not a guru in this matter, so please let me know what you think. @davel501

pro5099b01d5dd22.jpg 1355053726855178.jpg
 
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Update: Got the new unit from my dealer and it's working now. Still debating whether to tap into EP2 or into COM.
Thank you all for your inputs.
@davel501 Thank you!
 
Update: Got the new unit from my dealer and it's working now. Still debating whether to tap into EP2 or into COM.
Thank you all for your inputs.
@davel501 Thank you!

That common post install sure looks a whole lot easier if you never want to charge and use the batteries. It sure seems to do the same thing as long as you remember to turn the switch to off. For the folks that wet slip we need that house battery on to run the bilge pump so it is not a good option for us.
 
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