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Help with dvsr loop sense wire

FloJet

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How would I connect to the common post so I can use my dual bank chargers? I would rather do this than do the EP2 way as I don't wet slip.
 

davel501

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How would I connect to the common post so I can use my dual bank chargers? I would rather do this than do the EP2 way as I don't wet slip.
There is a little black wire that comes out of the DVSR that has a ring on the end that goes around the battery terminal. You can change the end to something more easy to connect and disconnect or use a wing nut to secure it to the top of the post above the existing nut for easy removal.
 

FloJet

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Ok thank you for the info. So this way I can switch batteries to off and smart charger will work properly? Also the red loop wire to cut for the EP2 connection, is that located by that black wire too? Some say behind the DVSR but not sure if I will have to open the box up for that. Once I do get red wired up, I wire the negative to the house battery? Do I still than leave the black wire still connected to the battery at this point I'm guessing?
 

davel501

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Ok thank you for the info. So this way I can switch batteries to off and smart charger will work properly? Also the red loop wire to cut for the EP2 connection, is that located by that black wire too? Some say behind the DVSR but not sure if I will have to open the box up for that. Once I do get red wired up, I wire the negative to the house battery? Do I still than leave the black wire still connected to the battery at this point I'm guessing?
You make 1 change or the other. If you look at your battery switch cluster there should be 1 box labeled DVSR. It should have a black and an orange coming out of it. If you want to go the easy route and just disconnect the DVSR when it is not in use then follow that black wire to the house battery and change it to some sort of quick connect/disconnect. If you want the no thought version then cut the red loop and tie it into the electrical system on your boat.
 

FloJet

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So I went ahead and ran the DVSR mod yesterday on the AR240. I believe I have done it right but no way to test and confirm. When I cut the loop sense wire, I attached it to the side that didn't run the fuel pump. On the top side of the wir, every time I hooked up to it, I could hear a pump come on in the port side. I assumed that was the fuel pump. The on other side of the wire, nothing happened. Which is the bottom wire of the DVSR.

My question now is since I don't see the red charging light on the DVSR anymore, how do I confirm that this mod is good to go since I can't take it out on the water and test. All my batteries are fully charged at this time. Thanks in advance.
 

davel501

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So I went ahead and ran the DVSR mod yesterday on the AR240. I believe I have done it right but no way to test and confirm. When I cut the loop sense wire, I attached it to the side that didn't run the fuel pump. On the top side of the wir, every time I hooked up to it, I could hear a pump come on in the port side. I assumed that was the fuel pump. The on other side of the wire, nothing happened. Which is the bottom wire of the DVSR.

My question now is since I don't see the red charging light on the DVSR anymore, how do I confirm that this mod is good to go since I can't take it out on the water and test. All my batteries are fully charged at this time. Thanks in advance.
If the batteries are fully charged you should be able to run the motors for a few seconds and see the light come on. Sounds like you have it together right though if the fuel pump ran the other way.
 

FloJet

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Ok cool. So I will need to turn the engines over to see the light? I had the keys just in the on position but I didn't crank the engines up.
 

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Did you connect the sense wire to the port engine on wire? If so then yes the port engine needs to be running and give it a few seconds to register.
 

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No that wire was little bit of a mess to tap into. So I ran it to the "eng on' at the SPU where the voltage wires go to. Please tell me this way is ok? lol
 

davel501

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You should be able to bump the motor to check it. Not sure what you mean by "eng on" at SPU but if that is the purple wire behind the helm then you are good.
 

FloJet

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Ya it's the purple eng on wire in the cooler storage compartment.
 

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@FloJet - That should work fine as that is an input. @davel501 - The connext boats are wired a bit different than the non-connext boats. Same principle though. I do bet that regardless both types have a separate engine on wire for each engine in the engine compartment and the port engine on wire was right on the other side of the firewall behind the batteries making the run short and simple.
 

davel501

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Yep, you should be good then. Just give it enough key to engage the starters on both engines without starting them and you should see the parallel light come on.
 

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Oh ok. Was starting to get worried there for a sec.
 

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I have read through several of these threads, but have a question about this mod. I plan to install 3 batteries, and a 3 bank smart charger this weekend. I figured this would be a good time to tackle the dvsr mod also. The question I have is do I need to do this mod if all dvsr switches will be turned to off while the charger is charging the batteries? Seems like the issue is when the house switch is left on so the bilge will have power. Or am I wrong, and the dvsr is confusing the charger no matter what position the switches are?
 

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There is a little black wire that comes out of the DVSR that has a ring on the end that goes around the battery terminal. You can change the end to something more easy to connect and disconnect or use a wing nut to secure it to the top of the post above the existing nut for easy removal.
So to be clear this would solve the dvsr smart charger issue? Basically unhook black wire when my boat is on the lift and charging? Then reconnect when ready to go out on the water?
 

davel501

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So to be clear this would solve the dvsr smart charger issue? Basically unhook black wire when my boat is on the lift and charging? Then reconnect when ready to go out on the water?
That would work. Just make sure to always do the battery switches and the black wire together to avoid heading out with house batteries that won't charge.
 

MattFX4

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@davel501 Thanks! I really don't want to cut and splice. It's no big deal to me to unhook the black wire when storing boat.
 

davel501

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@davel501 Thanks! I really don't want to cut and splice. It's no big deal to me to unhook the black wire when storing boat.
If you look long enough on amazon you can probably find an alligator clip to bolt that to for quick connect/disconnect. I thought about it but I just can't be trusted to do things consistently. :)
 

MattFX4

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If you look long enough on amazon you can probably find an alligator clip to bolt that to for quick connect/disconnect. I thought about it but I just can't be trusted to do things consistently. :)
Ok I will check it out. Part of my routine when putting boat on trailer, or this year when putting boat on lift is to turn the batteries off. This will just be one more step in that process.
 
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