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Haha just figured it out and deleted my post before seeing your response. You are right the white clip goes on that little cutout part and not sure what I was doing wrong at first. Thank you!
Just realized my issue was trying to put the metal washer on outside the rubber boot… which would mean the nut compresses the boot into the rubber plug and it would have been very tight and no place for the white clip. So remove the rubber boot, slide on the rubber plug, then white clip, then metal washer, then put the boot back on then the white screw nut.
Just realized my issue was trying to put the metal washer on outside the rubber boot… which would mean the nut compresses the boot into the rubber plug and it would have been very tight and no place for the white clip. So remove the rubber boot, slide on the rubber plug, then white clip, then metal washer, then put the boot back on then the white screw nut.
The shifters are like butter now! Crazy difference. After doing the scupper this was a breeze and I had previously tried to oil the cables since the boat was already docked on our lake… which honestly took just as long as replacing the cables. Took about 1.5 hours. I didn’t have to attach and pull the cables through but mine is an 04 AR230. It was easy to push to the console and to the transom from the seat compartment. Used the 17’ cables from Overton’s and they also had a deal on stabil marine to get me to the free shipping minimum.
A decade after the last post, I just wanted to say how helpful this post and following thread has been. I had to replace both starboard and port forward/reverse cables on my 2005 Yamaha SX230-HO (they were getting 'sticky' and then one broke; both were significantly corroded just inside the rear through-port where the cable exits to the gate assembly).
I was able to get the the cable from Partzilla.com (F1C-U149C-01-00 CABLE, REVERSE (Yamaha) for $88 each); the 17' worked perfectly as it allowed for the cables to have some sweeping bends in it back in the stern where there are a number of other things to navigate around rather than tighter bends).
My only suggestion to others is to not shy away from opening up the clean-out lid; it took less than 2 minutes to do with a drill fitted with a phillips screwdriver bit... I did this after carefully connecting the old cable to the new one at the stern and trying to pull it through to no avail. As I learned, the clean-out access tube is right behind and close to the through-hull fitting which was fine for the rigid portions of one cable, but not for both, to go through easily.
I ended up taking off the clean-out lid, pulling the old cable towards the bow (into the boat and then inserting the new one through the through-hull fitting. I then lightly taped the old and new ends together and gently pulled and directed the cables forward while my wife gently pushed the new cable in. This went very easily and allowed me to ensure that the new cable was correctly routed above, below, rear of, and forward of the many hoses, wires and other obstacles. It also worked easily to get the new cable through the only difficult to reach wire passage on the starboard rear-quarter (beyond there, it was a straight shot up the starboard side easily accessible from the storage and seat compartments.
Had no issues at all and it was pretty quick. It was a lot easier than I was expecting. Pretty much a straight shot from the center console to the back