How to replace Reverse Gate cable

[FLJetBoater]

Do you have another cable yet? Wonder if you can replace with older style and through hull fitting.

Oh I see what you mean. Older style cable AND the older connector kit…I dunno maybe? Will see what the dealer says tomorrow.

 

[Neutron]

No not yet won’t have for a few days. But, with just a regular through hull what (aside from 4200/5200) is preventing the cable from slipping inside the through hull? A regular through hull wouldn’t have a stop or tapered inside for the cable to lock onto. That’s where I’m confused and am curious if it’s actually molded onto the cable. Otherwise I don’t see anything actually holding the cable in place.
I’m going to call a dealership tomorrow and see if their techs have any experience with these so I at least know what to expect when the new cables come.

Bet its molded to the cable. They probably figured less chances of water intrusion

 

[FLJetBoater]

Bet its molded to the cable. They probably figured less chances of water intrusion

That’s exactly the thought I had of why they would do it.

 

[FLJetBoater]

That’s exactly the thought I had of why they would do it.

Someone replied on FB and said that the new cables come with the thru-hull pre-molded on them and with the nut & rubber gasket. Will confirm and post a pic when they come in.

 

[FLJetBoater]

New cable….

 

[Neutron]

Good deal!

 

[Julian]

Bet its molded to the cable. They probably figured less chances of water intrusion

Better seal on the hull, not sure it will make any difference to the water intrusion on the cable itself.....does that white part rotate on the cable- if not, then you have to rotate the whole cable to screw it into the hull??

 

[FLJetBoater]

Better seal on the hull, not sure it will make any difference to the water intrusion on the cable itself.....does that white part rotate on the cable- if not, then you have to rotate the whole cable to screw it into the hull??

But it’s also above the waterline at idle and on plane so I’m not sure why the significant chang

the white part doesn’t rotate there is a rubber washer that goes on the outside then a nut that goes on the inside. That white bolt is molded right on the cable.

 

[kirbyk11]

What size reverse cable do I need for a 2017 FSH 190 Sport?

 

[Rico_arg]

OK, I completed this job today, and it took WAY longer than it should have due to some unforseen challenges and that I'm anal and like to go slow. I began at 10:15 (boat covered) and finished at 3:30 (boat covered).

The cables I ordered were TELEFLEX CCX 63317 or TELEFLEX CC63317 for my 2005 (same part#--the one with the X is the latest version of the cable). I bought them from iboats.com for $44 each. Search for "3300 xtreme control cable", then chose the 17' version and you'll see this part number appear...their search doesn't find the part number! Here is a direct link (buy it from the vendor with the best price plus shipping--which for me was iboats--shipping was FAST TOO):

http://www.iboats.com/3300-Xtreme-Control-Cable-17-Teleflex-Marine/dm/cart_id.980701067--session_id.912360446--view_id.169426

I used the service manual Hull and Deck schematics for my 2005.

I'm used GVANs step by step and enhanced it with photos....See the photos with directions here:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200509625414855&set=a.10200509624694837.1073741826.1584386227&type=3&theater


1 Buy the TELEFLEX CC63317 cable, not the Yamaha OEM F1C-U149C-01-00 cable to save $$. (iboats had it on sale for $38 while my local Yamaha dealer wanted 149.99 for the OEM cable)

2 Remove the 4 screws from the plastic binnacle cover, then remove the cover (mine was a PITA to get off--there are 4 little pins in each corner that hold it on).
View attachment 45
You can just see the pins in this shot..the left pin is off, the right pin is still holding the cover down....
View attachment 46

Then remove the 4 screws holding the binnacle in place. The shift binnacle housing did not come out easily after removing the screws. Be patient and wiggle it out.
View attachment 47

3 Remove the three long screws that hold the two binnacle housings together. (this was where I had a 1-1.5 hour ordeal as someone before me had sheared off a screwdriver tip in one of these screws--I was able to rotate the two binnacle to loosen it up--took me a while to think of this--This pissed me off so much I stopped taking photos...so the next bit has no photos! Sorry)


They are two separate housings.
View attachment 48

Remove the two screws holding the plastic cover plate on. Pry off the E-clip that retains the shift cable (the shift cable is the marked with "A" on the photo below), so the shift cable is free to remove. The slide the throttle cable out from the bottom ("B" in the photo), followed by the plastic spacer. Don’t lose the spacer in between the shift and throttle cables as these cables enter the binnacle housing. Then remove the shift cable.
Attachment:
View attachment 49
binnacle.jpg [ 67.22 KiB | Viewed 216 times ]

3a. Loosen the nut holding the connector on the end of the cable, then unscrew the connector (count the number of rotations it takes to remove the connector - and put it on the new cable with the same number of rotations)

Now I have a 2005, so accessing the space between the under seat section and the bilge area is easier as I have a storage hatch and access plate. So I fed the cable from the under seat section, forward to the binnacle hole easily, then fed the new cable back to the bilge are easily also. I did need my wife to grab the cable through the clean out hatch tray. In hind sight it is probably easier to fish it from the stern all the way forward....but this worked ok for me.

4 Need to remove the bilge hatch cover where the cleanout cans are. There are a bunch of screws. To get the cover / hatch out of the way, I had to disconnect the drain hose clamp once all screw are removed

5 I pulled rear of the old cable into the inside of the hull / bilge area prior feeding the cable from the front. You will need to cut some zip ties to get the old cable out. So be sure you have some new ones to secure the new cable.

6 GVAN's directions say "Thanks for emphasizing that the cable ends (front / rear) are indeed different and I avoided feeding the new cable through backwards thanks to you." THIS COMMENT BAFFLED ME...I CAN SEE NO DIFFERENCE in the cable ends. I think older model boats might have had different cable ends. I've been asked about this later in the thread and by private message by other members-I saw no difference, and neither did they!

This is how GVAN did it....I didn't join the cables and just fished it on its own.
7 To connect the old cable to the new one to feed it from the shift area to the stern, I put a 3 inch small hose over two cable ends including the small nuts on each end (old and new). Then I used small tie wraps to tighten the small hose so the cables would stay connected. Then I used electric tape to cover the hose and tie wraps where the old/new cables connected to prevent snags while feeding the cable. I had my wife push/feed while I pulled. No problems. If it gets snagged, wiggle it while pulling/pushing but don’t force it…you don’t want the cables to come apart.

7a Undo the reverse gate--this is tricky if you don't know how the clip works. It is spring loaded and takes a thumb nail or a screw driver to get it squeezed together (see the photos).
View attachment 50
View attachment 51


Once you have the gate disconnected, remove the connector (count the rotations to get it off), then the nut, then the boots, plastic hull cover, washer and white plastic clip (that looks like a white plastic washer but is actually a clip-see the photo below) and push the old cable into the boat.
View attachment 52
View attachment 53


7b thread the new cable out, and re-assemble (see the photo). Again, put the connector on with the same number of rotations.

8 You need to put silicon on the inside of the hull where the cable comes through the hull.

9 Then re-assemble the boat (clean out tray back in --that is so much fun)

There are more photos in the Facebook album and more comments on the photos as well. Overall, this wasn't that hard--I'm sure fishing the cable in the 2007+ models or the 210s would be harder and will require taping the old and new ones together. Hope this helps someone! I prefer pics!

Wrote in 2014.. still being used! I did this today for both of the sides and took about 2 hours total. Thank you for taking the time to write this....

 

[Julian]

What size reverse cable do I need for a 2017 FSH 190 Sport?

Did you already figure this out?

 

[Julian]

Wrote in 2014.. still being used! I did this today for both of the sides and took about 2 hours total. Thank you for taking the time to write this....

Glad it was helpful! That is why we run the forum....

 

[Rico_arg]

Glad it was helpful! That is why we run the forum....

Pretty awesome. I have to say, and I am not an expert, but is it possible that one side is 17 and the other 16 ft? The ones I took of the boat were 16s.

 

[Matt H]

I'm getting ready to replace my throttle and reverse cable's. How can I find a non OEM match for a 2012 SX190? Or do I just go with OEM? look like throttle cable is $66 and reverse cable is $81.

 

[Julian]

I'm getting ready to replace my throttle and reverse cable's. How can I find a non OEM match for a 2012 SX190? Or do I just go with OEM? look like throttle cable is $66 and reverse cable is $81.

See if your cable has a part number imprinted near the end (s).... use that to source the original manufacturer. But those Yamaha prices are pretty good. My dealer wanted $275 per cable.

 

[swendl]

Wrote in 2014.. still being used! I did this today for both of the sides and took about 2 hours total. Thank you for taking the time to write this....

I just replaced reverse gate cable on 2008 232 Limited S. The screws over fuel tank were locked and had to drill most of them out. A few broke...what a nightmare. Having just done this job, here are my key takeaways.

1. Double check you feed the new cable in with the right end. Critically important. ;-)
2. Screws over fuel tank: used lubricant, half a dozen tools, etc. Final solution was to drill them out. Not fun.

Thanks to all who have submitted info on this, hugely helpful.

 

[Julian]

I just replaced reverse gate cable on 2008 232 Limited S. The screws over fuel tank were locked and had to drill most of them out. A few broke...what a nightmare. Having just done this job, here are my key takeaways.

1. Double check you feed the new cable in with the right end. Critically important. ;-)
2. Screws over fuel tank: used lubricant, half a dozen tools, etc. Final solution was to drill them out. Not fun.

Thanks to all who have submitted info on this, hugely helpful.

Mine weren't routed over the fuel tank, if they had been, I would have screwed the two cables together and just pulled them through vs raising the gas tank. Did you try that and it got stuck?

 

[swendl]

Mine weren't routed over the fuel tank, if they had been, I would have screwed the two cables together and just pulled them through vs raising the gas tank. Did you try that and it got stuck?

Yes. I screwed/taped cables together and got stuck, so had to open the gas tank. Also, hate to admit it, but I put the throttle in backwards (surprised it fits both ways) and when checking the gates, found that forward was reverse, and reverse was forward. At least I found it before going back on the water. SMH

 

[FLJetBoater]

Am I missing something? There is a rubber gasket not mentioned on this thread, and with the new cable the white clip won’t fit. So it’s rubber gasket in the hole around the cable, then washer then the white screw on nut. Will this be fine without the white clip? View attachment 199518

You need the white clip....where is it? I don't see it in your picture. It goes right around the little cutout part of metal part of the cable. It holds the cable in the correct place otherwise it'll just slide in and out of the hole.

I don't have my manual anymore or these pages, but I'm pretty certain that it's (from boat backwards)

rubber gasket
white clip
metal washer
plastic screw on part

You'll need to remove the rubber boots on the cable in order to get the rubber plug on. Then just slide the boots back on where they belong. The one closest to the boat slides sort of into the plastic screw part. The 2nd one goes down further where the cable extends. Make sure you load them up with grease.

 

[cjnapier]

You need the white clip....where is it? I don't see it in your picture. It goes right around the little cutout part of metal part of the cable. It holds the cable in the correct place otherwise it'll just slide in and out of the hole.

Haha just figured it out and deleted my post before seeing your response. You are right the white clip goes on that little cutout part and not sure what I was doing wrong at first. Thank you!