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How to replace Reverse Gate cable

I just did this on my '04 SX230 and did not remove the through hull fitting with all the caulk/silicone. Once I removed the exterior plastic nut, I was able to pull the cable through. I released it at the binnacle, and attached the new cable to the old and then pulled it right through.
 
Finally took mine out yesterday after the swap. Had a WHOLE lotta vibration in my throttle, gonna have to raise the buckets a little more than the original threads were at.
 
Ok @Julian said there are three bolts to get the two binnacles apart. I removed number 8. Where are the other two?8D4D3C63-8146-474E-9BC2-F1A99610AA8D.png
 
Ok @Julian said there are three bolts to get the two binnacles apart. I removed number 8. Where are the other two?View attachment 119681
On mine there were two at the top and one at the bottom (#8).


Here is the parts diagram from my model year. They don't show all three on the diagram, but they are #4. They show one of the #4 at the top, there is another on the other side in the same position.
1590007102668.png
 
Thank you. They were hiding under foam. I used the 1/4” fuel line method and pulled from the bilge with no issues.
 
Is neutral supposed to be about a 1 inch opening on the nozzles?
 
How did you know what length of cable to order? That universal cable you purchased comes in different lengths.
 
Partzilla allows you to look up your year and model boat and gives you and exploded view of all the parts.
 
If you get the Amazon cables, before you start feeding the new cable check the lengths of the ends of the new cable vs the old one. I have a 2012 SX240 and the part # is different from the 2011 boats - but the number stamped on the side of the cable is the same. And the # stamped on the ACTUAL cables is the same. The exact length of the sleeve (18' +/-) doesn't matter BUT the distance from where the cable "locks in" to the throttle to the end DOES matter. The same Teleflex cables [CCX3318] from Amazon were 11/16" too long for my boat. YMMV...!
 
Yes, you have to remove that and all the silicon.
Can you elaborate on why you have to remove that nut? From what I can see on mine, it's quite open in the middle so you can easily pass the cable through it, the silicone on the inside is only around the OUTSIDE of the black washer. There's no silicone or sealant around the white threads or between the white thing and the hull or between the black washer and the hull.

When I did my cable replacement today, I took the first one off because I remember reading it. But once I cleaned out all the silicone from the inside and realized none was actually under the black washer, I left the second one on. I did remove all the silicone on the inside and re-sealed with 4200 on both sides.
 
Can you elaborate on why you have to remove that nut? From what I can see on mine, it's quite open in the middle so you can easily pass the cable through it, the silicone on the inside is only around the OUTSIDE of the black washer. There's no silicone or sealant around the white threads or between the white thing and the hull or between the black washer and the hull.

When I did my cable replacement today, I took the first one off because I remember reading it. But once I cleaned out all the silicone from the inside and realized none was actually under the black washer, I left the second one on. I did remove all the silicone on the inside and re-sealed with 4200 on both sides.
Perhaps you dont have to, but I preferred to removed and reseal with fresh silicon as on my boat it was 10 years old.
 
Perhaps you dont have to, but I preferred to removed and reseal with fresh silicon as on my boat it was 10 years old.
OK, thanks. I did remove all the silicone and reseal thet inside, I just didn't discover any silicone between the threaded part and the hull or the washer and the hull, so seemed unnecessary to me to remove it. Definitely needs to be resealed though, because the sealant goes up around the cable as well. Once you pull that old cable through you've destroyed that seal job on the inside.
 
Perhaps you dont have to, but I preferred to removed and reseal with fresh silicon as on my boat it was 10 years old.
Also mine didn't look to be sealed with anything as strong as 4200. Looked like some clear very rubbery silicone.
 
I just replaced mine and wondered about all that silicone where cable goes through fitting. That is a poor fitting design

I thought PO forgot to reinstall grommet and threaded cap that would completely seal cable like whats on the outside.
I wonder if you can use 2nd grommet on inside and cap to fit other end?
 

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I just replaced mine and wondered about all that silicone where cable goes through fitting. That is a poor fitting design

I thought PO forgot to reinstall grommet and threaded cap that would completely seal cable like whats on the outside.
I wonder if you can use 2nd grommet on inside and cap to fit other end?
All of the parts in that image are for the exterior connection. Is there something for the interior connection? On the inside of my hull in the clean out area I have a black plastic nut. I don’t see that in the diagram you posted.
 
All of the parts in that image are for the exterior connection. Is there something for the interior connection? On the inside of my hull in the clean out area I have a black plastic nut. I don’t see that in the diagram you posted.


Exactly, cable is sealed from the outside but on the inside theres nothing to seal cable but silicone.?
Its just weird thats all that seals cable going through fitting. I thought I was missing something.
 
Exactly, cable is sealed from the outside but on the inside theres nothing to seal cable but silicone.?
Its just weird thats all that seals cable going through fitting. I thought I was missing something.
Yeah I’m with ya on that one. I guess the one argument is that any small leak would be going into the bilge. But def agree there should be something more there.
 
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