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Impeller and jet pump upgrade

Brian242

Active Member
Messages
17
Reaction score
2
Points
42
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2015
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
Good day to all.
I am in the process of changing the jet pump and impeller on a 2015 Yamaha AR190 that I recently purchased.
I am looking at the solas stainless steel 155mm jet pump and a solas impeller.
I think I have the Jet pump Info I need but have no idea which impeller to purchase.
Can anyone please assist in confirming the pump choice and recommend an impeller.


Solas Jet Pump impeller Housing 155mm YFS-HS-155 Yamaha PWC JET BOAT

Jet Ski Impeller For Solas Yamaha VXR VXS VX FX GP1800R YS-CD-13/19 155mm
 
I think you should check greenhulk since they focus on pwcs. I have solas in my boat and assume it’s the same model you referenced above, I had mine repitched when I bought them for better acceleration. You may want to give impros a call as well.
 
Thank you for the reply.
do you have a way to contact green hulk and impros?
 
Ok thank you. I will check ASAP. I wish everyone a joyous season GOD bless us all.
 
you may have to cross reference the part numbers from the yamaha boat parts list over to the jet ski parts then look up the impeller by jet ski...
 
Why are you wanting to change it? I have tried numerous times and found the factory impeller is best for general use if you gain top end you loose hole shot and visa versa Just my experience.
 
Why are you wanting to change it? I have tried numerous times and found the factory impeller is best for general use if you gain top end you loose hole shot and visa versa Just my experience.
I was wondering about this. And a few others suggested to stick with the stock impeller. And now I am leaning more towards just changing the pump to all stainless steel to avoid the swelling as is what happened with the stock one I bought the boat with. I had to bring down a few areas especially the bottom where the water drains down.
I read that theall stainless steel pump does not do this. I am using the boat strictly on salt water in the Bahamas.
 
@swatski did a ton of testing a few years ago on his SX190. He found only marginal gains with impeller changes, and that the stock impeller with an aftermarket cone gave the best all around performance.

@Brian242

I run a factory setup on mine with excellent (in my opinion) results. Only mods to the pump are the addition of an L13 cone with all but one spacer in, and a good tunnel sealing. I also did a spark arrestor delete (ribbon removal). Those three mods have not made a huge improvement in raw performance, however it is dead nuts consistent. more/less people/gear, weather changes, etc. The boat is very consistent in it's performance now.
 
Nope don't do that the dissimilar metal corrosion is caused by the aluminum and stainless steer contact , the liner swells from the corrosion between the two I replace my pump liner sections with the ones with the plastic replaceable liners and there is no dissimilar metal issues no noise and if the liner gets damaged you just replace it not the entire pump section so I always order 1 extra loner but after doping this for thousands of hours and many years I never once had to fix or replace a plastic liner now if you spend all that money on a stainless pump housing you get corrosion between the pump body and the housing so you just move the location to a more expensive part the pump body itself. I have posted many posts in the past regarding pumps and liners and even a way to repair the damage to a liner if you don't have the money to replace it. I buy my liner sections and liners from S B T in Clearwater Florida www.sbtontheweb.com and if you call them they will help you find the one for your pump. And let me tell you I beat the crap out of my pumps , run in very shallow water at very high speeds also. But what do I know I don't send texts or play with computers I just invent things. I also only run in salt water . I also posted this about 5 years ago explaining the corrosion process and a fix for people on a low budget and I did try it out just to see if it had cavitation etc and it did work fine. Next is a warning if you notice your engine dragging or just refusing to turn over when you first try to start it after it sat for a while " especially after prolonged periods like winter storage , you probably have a bad pump liner, lots of rattle running on the trailer also is pump liner contact. I have quite a large number of posts on various pump issues over the years .
 
Last edited:
@swatski did a ton of testing a few years ago on his SX190. He found only marginal gains with impeller changes, and that the stock impeller with an aftermarket cone gave the best all around performance.

@Brian242

I run a factory setup on mine with excellent (in my opinion) results. Only mods to the pump are the addition of an L13 cone with all but one spacer in, and a good tunnel sealing. I also did a spark arrestor delete (ribbon removal). Those three mods have not made a huge improvement in raw performance, however it is dead nuts consistent. more/less people/gear, weather changes, etc. The boat is very consistent in it's performance now.
I have the L13 nose cone on order and I am trying to find the ribbon delete part. But have no idea what needs to be done to seal the tunnel. But I am willing to learn whatever I need to to get this right and I am really grateful for being on such a great forum to get advice from professionals. This is my first ever boat so I have a great deal to learn.
 
Nope don't do that the dissimilar metal corrosion is caused by the aluminum and stainless steer contact , the liner swells from the corrosion between the two I replace my pump liner sections with the ones with the plastic replaceable liners and there is no dissimilar metal issues no noise and if the liner gets damaged you just replace it not the entire pump section so I always order 1 extra loner but after doping this for thousands of hours and many years I never once had to fix or replace a plastic liner now if you spend all that money on a stainless pump housing you get corrosion between the pump body and the housing so you just move the location to a more expensive part the pump body itself. I have posted many posts in the past regarding pumps and liners and even a way to repair the damage to a liner if you don't have the money to replace it. I buy my liner sections and liners from S B T in Clearwater Florida www.sbtontheweb.com and if you call them they will help you find the one for your pump. And let me tell you I beat the crap out of my pumps , run in very shallow water at very high speeds also. But what do I know I don't send texts or play with computers I just invent things. I also only run in salt water . I also posted this about 5 years ago explaining the corrosion process and a fix for people on a low budget and I did try it out just to see if it had cavitation etc and it did work fine. Next is a warning if you notice your engine dragging or just refusing to turn over when you first try to start it after it sat for a while " especially after prolonged periods like winter storage , you probably have a bad pump liner, lots of rattle running on the trailer also is pump liner contact. I have quite a large number of posts on various pump issues over the years .
I was looking at replacing the pump with a replace or liner. And I noticed that the stainless steel solos pump has 4 nuts that the bolts screw into and it doesn’t look that sustainable after prolonged use age. I will start with the pump with the replaceable wear ring and the stock impeller. And see how that goes. I will replace the nose one with the L13 and do the ribbon delete. And learn about the tunnel closure.
thank you for such great advice and I wilaearch The forum
For all of the info you have posted on the pump assembly
 
If anyone know where I can order the nose cone from in Florida and the ribbon delete and whatever I need for the tunnel seal please let me know. I want to order everything today and it would be good if I can find a supplier that has everything.
thank you all for the education.
 
I have the L13 nose cone on order and I am trying to find the ribbon delete part. But have no idea what needs to be done to seal the tunnel. But I am willing to learn whatever I need to to get this right and I am really grateful for being on such a great forum to get advice from professionals. This is my first ever boat so I have a great deal to learn.
on your engine the ribbon delete will not do it a lot of good and it will use more fuel I tried it on a 2014 1800 and was not impressed plus that part is a safety device to deal with backfires to prevent a fire or explosion so my input is to leave it alone
 
on your engine the ribbon delete will not do it a lot of good and it will use more fuel I tried it on a 2014 1800 and was not impressed plus that part is a safety device to deal with backfires to prevent a fire or explosion so my input is to leave it alone
WOW. Thank you for that very important bit of info. I will just remove it and clean it and replace it. My main goal is to get the boat to respond quickly when I give it throttle and sustain a good speed while traveling. I don’t need to do stunts or hairpin turns. I just want good response when I want it.
 
WOW. Thank you for that very important bit of info. I will just remove it and clean it and replace it. My main goal is to get the boat to respond quickly when I give it throttle and sustain a good speed while traveling. I don’t need to do stunts or hairpin turns. I just want good response when I want it.
Most important is the air cleaner element those get dirty , I designed a special filter to replace the original one and it ran a bit quicker in mid range but remember it is what it is and no mod is going to make a huge difference if your prop is not cavitating you are getting the power to the water. Now I just leave the engine etc alone I add my secret intake grate and my steering and leave it alone .
 
I have the L13 nose cone on order and I am trying to find the ribbon delete part. But have no idea what needs to be done to seal the tunnel. But I am willing to learn whatever I need to to get this right and I am really grateful for being on such a great forum to get advice from professionals. This is my first ever boat so I have a great deal to learn.

First off.....Most of us aren't professionals, just weekend warriors. With that said, there is a DEEP breadth of knowledge and experience to pull from here.

Here's where I resealed my pump tunnel. Relatively easy and inexpensive process. Just takes some time and makes a mess. Easily one of the best mods I've done to fight off cavitation.


Ribbon delete is super easy. Here's a walkthrough

 
Most important is the air cleaner element those get dirty , I designed a special filter to replace the original one and it ran a bit quicker in mid range but remember it is what it is and no mod is going to make a huge difference if your prop is not cavitating you are getting the power to the water. Now I just leave the engine etc alone I add my secret intake grate and my steering and leave it alone .
When I checked the boat after purchase I discovered there was no air filter element so I had to order one. It just arrived 3 days ago and I will install after cleaning the ribbon.
 
First off.....Most of us aren't professionals, just weekend warriors. With that said, there is a DEEP breadth of knowledge and experience to pull from here.

Here's where I resealed my pump tunnel. Relatively easy and inexpensive process. Just takes some time and makes a mess. Easily one of the best mods I've done to fight off cavitation.


Ribbon delete is super easy. Here's a walkthrough

???? Man this is really appreciated I will check this as soon as I get off work
 
Good day to everyone. Hope all is well and o hope you all had a great Christmas holiday.
 
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