Impeller issues - trashed bearing - pump rebuild & impeller swap

[Scottie]

So I've developed an issue with the port side impeller. I thought I had something stuck, but wasn't able to find anything. I decided to pull the impeller, and I haven't been able to actually remove the impeller yet, just can't get it to slide out. On inspection, I don't think there's anything in there. There are some metal shavings, and I believe the impeller is contacting the wear ring. At idle, it seems to run smooth, but at 4000 rpms or above there's a definite bump, and metal to metal sound/feel. It is not seized, and it seems it will run as fast as I want it too, though obviously there's a big issue. So what's going on here? It seems a bent impeller would hit the same place all the time. Am I losing a bearing? Would else could it be? How do I check?

 

[Gym]

Your wear ring is swelling causing it to contact the impeller blades. If you carefully run your fingers over the blades you will likely feel a burr or rolled over section on the blades. This can easily be filed off but if correct you will need to replace your wear rings. You can either go with the stainless steel OEM wear rings or the much cheaper plastic wear rings. Do you operate in salt water much? That's usually the cause.

 

[Scottie]

Never mind. Found it. As they say, WELL THERES YOUR PROBLEM! Wowzers.

 

[Gym]

Well, at least that's the easy bearing to replace. Glad you found it.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

looks like water got in, did you remove the cone recently? I also add gear lube to the pump so the bearings always get lubed Sitting on over 700 hours on the original bearings but I am thinking of just doing them as a precaution.

 

[Brad460]

Holy crap....that is ugly!

 

[Scottie]

Well, at least that's the easy bearing to replace. Glad you found it.

Still have to remove the impellers and press it on, right? I'd love for there to be an easier way.

 

[buckbuck]

When was the last time you checked the grease level? Your boat is only 6 years old so it seems strange to have a failure like that.

 

[Scottie]

I put in L13 cones last year. It looks like the O-ring was either pinch during installation or had a cut in it prior to install. It has damage that I don't think came from the exploding bearing.

 

[Scottie]

 

[buckbuck]

That is what I fear every time I change my oil/grease. It is so tight I have to force it on.

 

[Scottie]

Okay, so now I'm going to go ahead and replace impellers, wear rings, and bearings on both sides. So my first question is, should I just replace with the same stock impellers? I know this has been asked over again. I believe @jcyamaharider is getting ready to test a new option? Is there a benefit to going with an impeller from a newer 212x... Are they any different? Mine is a 2013, California model. @swatski @jcyamaharider @Bruce

 

[swatski]

@Scottie Glad you caught it in time! That's a bummer but could had been way worse.

@Bruce posted a thread on bearing replacement, he did it in his garage and borrowed a press - in like two hours before departure for one of the Bimini trips.

As far as what set up to go with, I would go with the OEMs, unless you are ready to experiment. @jcyamaharider tested the single OEM in twin 2015+ 1.8 and his results are great, from what we have heard. But that is not an option for MR-1, different shaft etc.

Plastic (delrin) inserts require a different wear ring segment, the inserts are inexpensive and work GREAT, also more quiet but do not last as long as the OEM (aluminum alloy with SS insert (non-removable). The OEM usually die only when galvanic corrosion makes the SS insert bulge.

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[Scottie]

@swatski I have twin 1.8 HOs, not MR-1, so maybe that's something I should look at?

 

[swatski]

@swatski I have twin 1.8 HOs, not MR-1, so maybe that's something I should look at?

Of course you do! Pardon my mistake, must have been the rain and the teleprompter, lol.
With 1.8s the OEM impelelrs work best but I do believe the single (6CW) may be even better in twins for hole shot, the blades are a tad longer. I have not tested that myslef though, but want to! Likely the top speed may suffer minimally, but that would be okay with me.

If you are not feeling like you need a better hole shot, I would got with the OEM impellers. Especially if you get the two that are pitched different, the port has the notched neck, IIRC. Personally I would go with that, its the best deal.

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[Scottie]

Hmmm. Better hole shot would be great for surfing.

As for OEM, I only see one part number listed for my 2013, and that's 6AP-R1321-10-00, but I do see 6S8-R1321-10-00 listed as starboard side for older boats than mine. Are you suggesting one of each? This is interesting.

 

[AboveTheBest]

View attachment 98964

I realize you’re feeling like things are bad right now, but feel happy you realized something was wrong and shut it down before major damage was caused.

I have a picture just like this in a 16-page thread I started that ended with a new engine (that I’m still trying to get figured out).

Take it to a JetSki ship and pay $200 to have the bearings presses back in.

No big deal at all!

 

[swatski]

Yes, Yamaha used to pitch the Port side impeller a bit more aggressive due to loading, I though they only stopped with the introduction of the new hull in 2015+ (AK).

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[Scottie]

Hmmm. So I could do...
A. 2x 6CW-R1321-00-01
B. 2x 6AP-R1321-10-00 (OEM)
C. 1x 6AP-R1321-10-00 and 1x 6S8-R1321-10-00
No idea how to decide. Ha. The tinkerer in me says A or C.

 

[swatski]

Hmmm. So I could do...
A. 2x 6CW-R1321-00-01
B. 2x 6AP-R1321-10-00 (OEM)
C. 1x 6AP-R1321-10-00 and 1x 6S8-R1321-10-00
No idea how to decide. Ha. The tinkerer in me says A or C.

How did the boat run before the current issue? Was your RPM at WOT similar on both sides with the OEM impellers?
If it was similar it may be similar to the new hulls where they stock both pumps with the same pitch impelelrs and the differences are very small, negligible for most people, and may not need/benefit from different pitch much?

I would say I would probably opt for the OEM setup (I know, B., lol) - because you are changing/fixing a few things so your baseline may change as well, and you may end up chasing your tail if doing too many things at once.

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