Information about fire extinguishers

[haknslash]

So a few people have asked for a thread containing information about fire extinguishers in @FloJet's recent close call wiring thread and I figured I would add some videos and try to answer your questions about fire extinguishers. Thankfully there are a lot of videos and resources out there that will save me from having to type a wall of text for you to read . A disclaimer about myself, I work for Amerex Corporation as a Product Design Engineer and CAD Manager (among a ton of other things really but that's my shorthand title lol). I have been with the company going on 13 years now. During that time I have learned quite a lot about the fire protection and manufacturing industries. It's ironic I work in this field as I was a little pyromaniac as a child and teenager .

That being said a lot of what I'm going to post is going to center around our product as that is what I personally know best above any other extinguisher manufacturer. However a lot fo what is shown or posted generally relates to other quality extinguishers in the industry. You are certainly welcome to buy or use any extinguisher you choose to, so please do not think I'm trying to push our products on you. I'm only posting this info because others seemed interested in learning more. Anyways I just wanted to put that out there and if there is anything specific you want to know just ask away and I'll do my best to answer what I can. Others please feel free to chime in and add information, scenarios, etc you've had with fires or fighting a fire.

Below are a few useful links:

• Fire and Fire Extinguisment
  A brief guide to fire chemistry and estingishment theory
• Common Myths
• SDS Safety Data Sheets (formally MSDS)
• US Coast Guard Approvals
• Use of ABC Dry Chemical in the vicinity of aircraft
• Amerex hand portable Fire Extinguisher product page
• How to use an extinguisher and Fire Rating Types
• Halon and how does it work
• Amerex Tech Tips for Use, Maintenance and General Knowledge

Some various videos...

How it's Made Science Channel TV show came to our plant several years ago to film. Here's a thorough video about how an Amerex hand portable fire extinghuisher is made.

We also had another group named BrandMade TV come in a few years later to do filming and their video is a little less dry (no pun intended) if you prefer it to the Science Channel one. There is only so much excitement that can be made of the manufacturing process unless you're into that sort of thing lol.

Very brief animation I made years ago about how the valve assembly works in an Amerex hand portable fire
extinguisher.

For rechargeable fire extinguishers it is VERY IMPORTANT to never reuse the extinguisher without having it recharged and/or refilled. If it is a disposable fire extinguisher never reuse it if it has been used, even if very little use. What happens is once an extinguisher has been used, it's sealing surfaces are no longer capable or holding pressure because the fine particulate dust allows for seepage. Because of this a recharge also requires the parts be cleaned prior to pressurizing. This is an excellent video I found explaining why you should never reuse an extinguisher without recharge or disposal if it's been used.

Halotron I

 

[tdonoughue]

Wow... this is going to take me several days to get through.

Meantime, a question: I have two dry chemical extinguishers on board, but after reading about the theory of the fire port on the engine compartment, I purchased a CO2 extinguisher as well for on board, specifically to be used in the event of an engine fire. My theory was that, given that the port is squarely between the engines, dry chemical application through the fire port would be less effective and CO2 would be optimal in the event of an engine fire. Now, I have already read enough of your posts and above to now recognize the benefits of the halon-type extinguishers for that application (though they are much more expensive). That said, is my thinking on the CO2 extinguisher way off base?

 

[haknslash]

Halon 1211 (BCF)

CO2 units.

Class K (Kitchen)

Water Mist

 

[haknslash]

Wow... this is going to take me several days to get through.

Meantime, a question: I have two dry chemical extinguishers on board, but after reading about the theory of the fire port on the engine compartment, I purchased a CO2 extinguisher as well for on board, specifically to be used in the event of an engine fire. My theory was that, given that the port is squarely between the engines, dry chemical application through the fire port would be less effective and CO2 would be optimal in the event of an engine fire. Now, I have already read enough of your posts and above to now recognize the benefits of the halon-type extinguishers for that application (though they are much more expensive). That said, is my thinking on the CO2 extinguisher way off base?

Yea it's a ton of stuff to sit through!

CO2 is a great alternative to Halon. As you know it's much cheaper. I keep several around my house in addition to dry chem units. One concern with CO2 over Halon is it will get extremely cold when expelled from liquid state to gas and depending on what you're fighting the fire on this could be an issue. You could risk "cold shocking" some vital electronics that may not take well to those extreme temperatures. For most boat use it would be fine and a good choice of a clean agent while not breaking the bank. After all if life is on the line, the last thing I'm worried about on the boat is saving the ECM if I have to flood the engine compartment lol. My suggestion for Halon was it's like the Cadillac of Clean Agents but also the one the environment frowns upon the most for ozone depletion, hence why it was phased out. If you have a fire on the boat and in the engine hatch most important thing to do is fight the mind naturally wanting to open the hatch and fight the fire. You do not want to do that because all that's going to do is add a ton of oxygen into the mix and fuel the fire even larger. It is important to note if you have a fire and use Clean Agents, you do not want to be standing over the hatch after opening from using the fire port. Chances are you could pass out or worse suffocate. If it were me and a fire started I would flood my fire port with the entire contents of the clean agent. Give if a bit to see if the fire is out but not open the hatch right away or stand anywhere near it. If it's still smoldering you will know. Some clean agents are heavier than air and will actually reside down low, so its also important not to go snooping around sticking your head in there either after the fire has been put out.

Here is a snipit from a good BoatUS article:

If You Face A Fire
Depending on its size, if a fire occurs while in a marina, it may be best to evacuate the boat, dial 911, and let professional firefighters handle it. Remember, fire extinguishers are small, quick fixes. If you can't put out the fire with one extinguisher (two at the most), get out.



Develop a fire-safety plan and make sure everyone on board knows what to do in the event of a fire.

For fires away from the dock, you'll have to be more self-reliant, as evacuation will be more difficult and assistance likely longer in coming. Your response when dealing with an onboard fire while anchored or underway will ultimately be determined by existing conditions (type of fire, location, etc.). However, in general, one of the first steps should be notifying the Coast Guard utilizing VHF Channel 16. Letting someone know you're in trouble sooner rather than later gives rescue agencies (or good Samaritans nearby) a quicker response time should assistance be needed. Once contact is established, pass crucial information as quickly as possible (location, type and size of vessel, number of people on board, boat name, etc) as there might not be a second chance should the fire knock out your electronics (another reason to have a handheld VHF fully charged at all times).

If the fire occurs while underway, stop the boat, paying attention to your surroundings, while maneuvering to avoid other vessels, to the extent possible. If the fire is in the engine room, one of the worst things to do is the first thing everyone wants to do: open up the compartment to see what's going on. Don't do it. You'll only provide additional oxygen, which can turn a smoldering fire into an abandon-ship-type conflagration. It can also overcome you with fumes.

The best way to fight an engine-room fire is having an appropriately sized, clean-agent automatic extinguisher system mounted within the engine compartment. "Automatic" is a key word here, but there should also be a manual discharge control located outside the engine compartment (normally at the helm) so that the unit can be immediately discharged in the event you or a crewmember become aware of a fire before the auto-release mechanism kicks in.

If you don't have an engine-room fire-suppression system, fire ports should be installed to fight engine fires. These are small ports or openings that allow you to discharge a portable, clean-agent fire extinguisher (such as Halotron) directly into the engine room without opening hatches or access panels. Ensure your fire port is big enough to accept the extinguisher nozzle, can be opened or accessed from outside the engine compartment, and is located so that the portable fire extinguisher can be properly discharged in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions (able to be discharged in an upright position, etc.). These extinguishers should be clearly marked for engine-room use only and mounted near the fire port.

Whether you use a portable unit and fire port or an automatic extinguisher, shut down the engine as soon as possible. Wind from boat movement can spread the fire. And importantly, a running engine can pump fire suppressant out of the engine compartment while continuing to suck in fresh air. It may also be feeding the fire with fuel. Most automatic units have an option for installing an automatic engine shutdown, an excellent idea that should be seriously considered. As clean-agent units kill the fire without damaging the engine and components, boaters can often restart their engines (after locating and correcting the initial problem) and return to port under their own power.

 

[drewkaree]

I can't thank you enough for your wealth of information on this subject. Haven't picked up the boat yet, but this old thread is worth reading for future prep. I've seen 2 boats go up, there was no chance with one, and the other was woefully underprepared for the possibility. Anything to add or update from when this was posted?

 

[drewkaree]

Also, just a suggestion [USERGROUP=3]@Administrative[/USERGROUP] that this might be a good thread to add to the FAQ. I don't recall seeing it in there.

 

[Noko]

Great article. I'm glad is been brought back out. I'll definitely be looking at my extinguishers and also getting a couple for the house.