Ipilot trolling motor mount problems

[Brian Filas]

@WTScott ...looks awesome. Enjoy

 

[Earfixr]

I wanted to make sure the motor was flush with the port side edge when stowed to keep from ripping it off at the dock. Also wanted the shortest bending moments when it was deployed. That thing is super heavy with a lot of torque 60" away from the mount. 6 bolts were plenty to anchor it safely.

Also a $1.49 pvc 1-1/4" 90 from home depot saves the $400 cover.

 

[JeeperJenkins]

@WTScott any chance of getting dimensions of mount? This is an awesome setup, looking to do the same! Also, you mention trolling batteries in changing nook still under consideration... Are they mounted there now? Is that what is causing the spray?

 

[WTScott]

@JeeperJenkins @Brian Filas - Sorry for late reply, its winter (even in Texas) and have not been on the forum for a bit. Got the boat out last weekend for a short run but still waiting on some warm weather. I do have a template that I could send but I noticed that Brian is going to take his mount off and scan the dimensions for the group. He is the originator of the design and I think his implementation is a "little" bit more elegant than mine - . As I noted earlier, I cut my dimensions a little too close and while the mount worked great with the puck and mount fitted off the motor, the overhang on the base of the Ulterra stuck out enough that it barely caught on the anchor door when opening. Brian thought ahead enough to make sure this did not happen! My short term solution was to take a heat gun and "modify" the plastic base on the motor by about 1/2 " to get it to clear. It works great now but not the greatest look. Benefits as Brian points out are good tracking, easy on / off, can still fit standard cover and looks pretty cool. This is truly the best solution I have seen.

As to batteries, I did start out in the changing area nook but moved to the rear starboard location to balance out the other batteries and keep CG towards the back - seems to help with speed and spray a bit. With this location you are pretty free to use a port or starboard mount for the trolling motor and actually port would help balance out the live well weight. My boat is pretty well balanced now as wife usually rides in rear starboard seat and with me slightly port it is close. One caution - @Billy Marlin noted that he started out this way but had some significant water / moisture problems and shorted out his charger. He does (did) store his boat outside and had rain / water issues. Mine is under a covered dock and cover so not the issues.

Good luck with the boat - this is a great group with lots of good ideas.

S

 

[JeeperJenkins]

@WTScott - awesome! Thank you! I'm in the Austin area, great to see another Texan on here! Thanks for the reply!

 

[sbro302]

Any updates on the template for the Aluminum Mount? @WTScott @Brian Filas

 

[Brian Filas]

@sbro302 ...Check it out under this post. https://jetboaters.net/threads/trolling-motor-battery-location.11804/

 

[Nick DiMercurio]

To the original point, be careful with only 3 or 4 bolts in the fiberglass to mount the trolling motor. My quick disconnect plate (lower half) just bent to the point the I have a 3/8" gap at the back where the two plates are supposed to sit flush when tightened down because the weight of my MotorGuide xI5 bouncing on the chop and/or a light hit on the bank coasting in before I could grab the push pole to keep the prop from hitting the rocks may have put enough leverage on the pole to torque the plate (it's not solid aluminum, but cast aluminum with hallow area underneath and I'm looking into having a solid 1/2" aluminum plate used to secure closer to port side of anchor locker on the 190 FSH to allow it to extend out closer to center of the boat in front. This will strengthen the support for that quick disconnect plate assembly and allow the heaviest part (front loaded) trolling motor base to drop the pole clear of the curved front boat edge/rail. I thought a saw a forum with a template on 11x17" paper you could print and get the aluminum plate made for just this purpose but I can't find it again now. Happy Fishing. I'm still trying to clean up leaks on my 1 month old Yamaha 190 FSH Deluxe... keep having bilge kick on about every 30 minutes for 5 seconds and 1/2" of water build up in changing area compartment under center console. Ugh.

 

[Billy Marlin]

@Nick DiMercurio most likely water is coming in from your rear drains. I had an issue where occasionally one plug would not seal very well and almost sunk the boat when I left it in a slip. I pulled both my plugs and replaced them with brass never had a problem after that. While replacing them I did notice they barely had any sealant around the plugs.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/brass-drain-plug-install.8967/#post-154004

 

[Brian Filas]

@Nick DiMercurio - Here is the original link https://jetboaters.net/threads/trolling-motor-battery-location.11804/

This has the video and the google docs link to the template.

 

[Kahuna Khris]

I just bought a 2016 Fsh Deluxe. It is back at the dealership so they could install a new minn kota 24v 80lb thrust ipilot trolling motor. I want it to be mounted to a quick disconnect plate so that it can be removed for water sports. Apparently the Fsh 190 has a bow that is not mount friendly for the saltwater series ipilot due to clearance issues. The dealer is trying to get an adapter plate fab up in order to mount the trolling motor with all 6 bolts. Minn kota said they have been mounting with only 3 bolts allowing the motor to hang off the bow more for clearance. Any help here? I don't want my new ipilot to rip the bolts thru the rail of my new boat due to improper mounting. Any help here?

My dealer originally told me I needed an expensive custom adapter plate to be fabricated. After the fabricator failed to show on three occasions, another service manager looked at it and determined it didnt need it. Here is their installation which seems to work fine. The last photo shows the plug location.

 

[Kahuna Khris]

My dealer originally told me I needed an expensive custom adapter plate to be fabricated. After the fabricator failed to show on three occasions, another service manager looked at it and determined it didnt need it. Here is their installation which seems to work fine. The last photo shows the plug location.

This is a 36 volt 72" shaft. All three dedicated batteries, and minkota 3 bank charger in change compartment towards the bow so change floor still wide open.

 

[Drew Zok]

Here you go...
I already had the Minn-Kota RTA-17 quick mount from the old boat.

For this new boat, I purchased an 8" x 24" piece of 1" thick Starboard and fabricated that base plate in the photo and mounted the "boat side" puck from the RTA17 to it.
It may seem a little long but I wanted to try and get the I-pilot as close to the boat center line as practical. The FSH doesn't have the best bow shape to easily make that happen so you will need to have some bow overhang on that mount. Only my recommendation but...the FSH isn't the best "tracking" boat in the world so you'll want to try and sneak as close to the center line as you're able. If you're going to do a lot of trolling, you'll be happy you did.
You can keep sliding things around until you're happy with the position and then mark your holes and drill away. I was easily able to catch four holes in the base plate which keeps mine nice and secure. I just spent a couple weeks down in Florida on Choctawhatchee Bay and out in the Gulf with not a lot of smooth water during our stay...it did very well.
This is the only photo I have here on my cell phone, I could take and post some better ones later tonight perhaps if needed.
View attachment 35376

Hi, Drew here, what is the material you used 1" thick and final dimensions?

Thank you!

 

[kthrash]

Just get the factory mount..

 

[Drew Zok]

Just get the factory mount..

Don' like factory mount as I'd like to do custom 5/8" 6061 Aluminum and have it on starboard side, already have the puck and the RTA - 17 quick release
just waiting on Cad file to drewzok72@gmail.com
Thanks, I want to get up.front and center like Brian and others, someone please send me cad file as I have the aluminum already.

Thank you!!!

Drew

 

[Drew Zok]

Here is stock!

 

[Lightningfan]

That mount looks perfect. I have a 2017 FSH. Dealer says the Minn Kota Riptide Ulterra will bang up against the boat when deployed. The extra distance from the boat and the location closer to the center line looks like it would solve my problem. Nice work!!

 

[Lightningfan]

Super late post, but decided to reply just in case anyone new was reading the thread. Made a custom aluminum mount ($250 at local machine shop). Has 7 anchor points, because I pushed it pretty far out so I could get as close to the center line as possible (and still use the anchor locker). It is solid as a rock.
View attachment 47983View attachment 47984

Super late post, but decided to reply just in case anyone new was reading the thread. Made a custom aluminum mount ($250 at local machine shop). Has 7 anchor points, because I pushed it pretty far out so I could get as close to the center line as possible (and still use the anchor locker). It is solid as a rock.
View attachment 47983View attachment 47984

Brian, any chance you could share the template of that mounting bracket? I have a 2017 FSH. Want to get the Minn Kota Ulterra, but the dealer tells me it will bang up against the boat during deployment. This looks like it would solve my problem. Thanks Brian. Nice job!

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

I just cut and measured what I needed: https://jetboaters.net/threads/210-fsh-trolling-motor-mount-pics.24573/#post-416561