Keeping the boat all the way on the trailer

[rkluck]

That is what I thought as well. I do the break trick and it helps. It just seems like it should be tight from the start. I may explore the strap quality a little more. Thanks!

 

[sysinu]

One option that not a lot of people use (because boat ramps are busy places) is to load in two positions. I actually HATE power loading, even though all of my boat ramps that I go to are super long/deep and there's not a huge issue with washout or sandbar. Because of this, I run a lot of line out of my winch.

First I'll back the trailer down so the front of the fenders are just out of the water. Then I'll run out about 1/3 a boat trailer's length of line. The wife brings the boat up to the trailer slow enough to engage the bunks and self center. Once I have the winch attached I have the wife kill the engines. Then I'll winch in until it becomes difficult, then I back the truck and tailer down to what would be the "normal depth" and I winch it the rest of the way. I have never had the winch slip or the bow eye back down from the bottom of the roller.

Then when I'm putting transom straps on and everything else, I'll usually try to crank the winch a little more (but usually it has no give to go).

With my method, the wife is a little more comfortable in worse weather, since she can come in a little slower with more control and I can bring her the rest of the way in. I usually take about 2-3 minutes in total to trailer the boat and get it out of the water.

 

[jetboater4life]

One option that not a lot of people use (because boat ramps are busy places) is to load in two positions. I actually HATE power loading, even though all of my boat ramps that I go to are super long/deep and there's not a huge issue with washout or sandbar. Because of this, I run a lot of line out of my winch.

First I'll back the trailer down so the front of the fenders are just out of the water. Then I'll run out about 1/3 a boat trailer's length of line. The wife brings the boat up to the trailer slow enough to engage the bunks and self center. Once I have the winch attached I have the wife kill the engines. Then I'll winch in until it becomes difficult, then I back the truck and tailer down to what would be the "normal depth" and I winch it the rest of the way. I have never had the winch slip or the bow eye back down from the bottom of the roller.

Then when I'm putting transom straps on and everything else, I'll usually try to crank the winch a little more (but usually it has no give to go).

With my method, the wife is a little more comfortable in worse weather, since she can come in a little slower with more control and I can bring her the rest of the way in. I usually take about 2-3 minutes in total to trailer the boat and get it out of the water.

Be careful with this method. I didn't back my trailer down far enough once and when coming in the hull took a jab from the edge of my bunk. Fortunately my keelsheild saved me. If you have a very steep ramp then you are probably fine, but shallower ramps could create the scenario I had.

 

[KXCam22]

I painted a line on my front bunks 18" from the front. We back the trailer in till the line hits the water. That seems to be the optimum spot for getting the boat nicely and easily on the trailer. With some slicone bunk spray I can power load onto the roller or we can crank it with the winch. Cam.

 

[rkluck]

I have not heard of silicone bunk spray. Would that make the boat slide around on the trailer?

 

[txav8r]

@rkluck , this is a more common problem on the MFI trailer, which you have. The bow stop post flexes and moves. So no matter how tight against the post you are, you will still see some movement. However, all the other guys are right. You MUST make sure your bow eye bolt is up under and against the bow stop roller when you tighten the winch strap. Many of us leave the throttles up and do this before idling them. Others have replaced their winch and crank it on, but your weak post isn't going to allow that without welding the post with a gusset to stop it from flexing. The Shorelandr trailer bowstop post is more solid and doesn't move...unless the pinch plates let it move. Mine did, and I had to modify it with a shim to stop that. After modifying my MFI trailer on my 230, I never found my winch strap loose again, nor do I find my 240 shorelandr winch strap loose. BUT, you will find that the transom straps get loose even if it doesn't move from the bowstop. That is because if it moves forward when you stop, even a 1/4, they loosen. And when you brake, the boat will move forward, no matter how tight you get the winch strap and how snug to the roller you get the boat. The post is going to flex forward a tad when you come to a stop on the road.

 

[rkluck]

txav8r, yes I do have the MFI trailer. So the only real fix is to weld the bow stop post? Well that sucks! Thanks for all the input.

 

[jetboater4life]

txav8r, yes I do have the MFI trailer. So the only real fix is to weld the bow stop post? Well that sucks! Thanks for all the input.

Or bolt it

 

[Big_D]

Hate to stir up an old topic... just wondering though how far folks are sinking they're trailers to load the boat? I've had the same issue every time I've taken mine out since I bought it last month (7 or 8 trips). The dealer even had the same issue when we pulled it out after the test ride, he said just hit the brakes like others have posted. When we got back to the dealership, it was up against the bow roller (which unfortunately left some scars on the bow from the 10 hour ride home ). I've tried the brake trick, but to no avail.

I usually sink the trailer enough to submerge both sets of bunks (forward and aft). Then I pull it back up to the point where the tip of the forward most set of bunks is just barely submerged. Is that still submerged too much? Should any of the forward bunks be exposed.




D

 

[sstegh]

Sink it until the wheel Wells are just under water. The tip of the front bunks should be out of the water.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

You need to ratchet the boat tighter while in the water. Putting the boat in forward while winching will help. If the boat is not tight enough, when you pull up the ramp a gap will appear between the roller and boat.

 

[RForester]

I have had this problem too! I've only had my boat about two months and every time it's about 2-3 inches off of the roller when we pull it out. One problem, generally speaking, knowing how much power or how fast to be going before the intake starts sucking air, hence loosing power. Also, I think that the boat really isn't seated into the trailer good and settles back when you pull it out of the water. I tried this the last time and it eliminated the problem after pulling up and I walked to the back end of the boat, standing, I rocked the boat side to side as my wife slowly sinched up and slowly eased up out of the water. I dint seem to have the problem this time. The boat seated down as it was pulled out and didn't shift back... At least that's what I thought happened!

 

[jetboater4life]

I have my driver dunk the trailer then pull it out so about 12-18 inches of the front bunks (closest to the vehicle) are showing. I power load and while the jets are pushing the bow eyelet up against the bow roller I either do a front flip and crank the winch tight or my driver steps on the trailer tongue (or gets his toes wet) and cranks the strap tight. It's been tight to the bow roller every time with this method. My bow stop is welded.

 

[rkluck]

RForester, What you describe is the same thing I have. I fell like the boat just isn't settled in. I am going to standing in the back while my wife pulls the strap in. I do think the strap should be tighter as well. Interesting that this is such a common problem.

 

[Big_D]

I have my driver dunk the trailer then pull it out so about 12-18 inches of the front bunks (closest to the vehicle) are showing.

I think this is the key piece of info I needed. I've been sinking the bunks, but only pulling it back up far enough for the tips of the front ones to be exposed. I'll give this a shot next time we go out... hopefully tomorrow!



D

 

[Wayloncle]

That was my problem when I first started, I was putting the trailer too deep. Once I figured out (from these wonderful people of this forum) that it was too deep, I now leave the front edge of the fenders out of the water a couple inches, easier to see the fenders than the bunks while backing my truck, now I winch it right on.
Before, I was floating it all the way to the roller, or trying to anyway, now I float it up on the front bunks and winch it the rest of the way.

 

[Shuck Water]

Better yet, get a slip and don't worry about this trailering crap. Problem solved.

 

[Ronnie]

That doesn't work of you like to boat in more than one location. Also if you do boat in other locations consider how you are going to handle loading if the ramp is steeper or less steep than you are used to. I've noticed the steeper ramps are easier for me to deal with if I drop the trailer in so that the winch is just a little higher than the bow eye on the boat. That is, measuring by the bunks doesn't work for me when the ramp is steep.

Better yet, get a slip and don't worry about this trailering crap. Problem solved.

 

[jetboater4life]

That is, measuring by the bunks doesn't work for me when the ramp is steep.

I agree. There are two main ramps on Lake Zumbro where I do 90% of my boating. The one I use the most is on the shallow side of things and is where I follow the 12 to 18 inches rule. The other ramp which I use a couple of times a season is much deeper. I find I need maybe 6 inches of the bunk out there. Sometimes you have to try it a few different ways to find the optimal depth.

 

[Big_D]

easier to see the fenders than the bunks while backing my truck

If your in a truck, try dropping the tailgate... works great. It's much easier to see the empty trailer (and the bunks) with it down.



D