• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Lucky 13 ( L13 ) Anti-Cavitation Cone Install / 2016 AR240

Wow, I just tested a new combination - two brand new OEM 6CW impellers replacing my almost brand new OEM 6APs.

The 6CW plus L13 seem like a killer combination. The hole shot is amazing, the pumps pull like crazy and the boat jumps out of the water. The top is still solid 45mph, top RPM about 7,500.

The L13 I'm using is still same setup with 3 spacers on the PORT side, no spacers STRBD. The cones are no longer black, got all blasted off.

These are hands down the best results I've had in a while, I'm so happy.

Those impellers are a tad louder and a tad different tone, probably because they must be sticking out more into the intake tunnel - they are a 1/2" taller.
104794

--
 
@swatski What prompted the change/testing of the new setup?

Also what does 6CW and 6AP refer to? Part numbers?

Glad to hear you had excellent results!
 
@swatski What prompted the change/testing of the new setup?

Also what does 6CW and 6AP refer to? Part numbers?

Glad to hear you had excellent results!
I've had those in my 190, the 6CW is the OEM in 190, the 6APs are 240 same pitch on both sides in the new hulls (2015+).
Some at elevation have been using those 6CWs in twins due to blade length/profile repitched for elevation - @Williamsone46 posted on that few years back, most recently @J-RAD had his done by the new Impros/Glenn Perry, too, with great results.

In my thousand impeller swap 190 the OEM (6CW) has consistently outperformed, when paired with the L13. I did not rrealize the 6CW is actually larger until @Scottie pointed that out recently!

This is a good thread on those:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/impellers-other-than-factory-but-factory-pitch-which-to-buy.22509/

And @Scottie’s write up:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/impeller-issues-trashed-bearing-pump-rebuild-impeller-swap.23139/page-2#post-392141

--
 
Finally got my L13's installed yesterday! Starting with @swatski's recommendation of all 3 spacers starboard and 0 port. I did not have to pull the nozzles to do the swap. My 9 year old son was able to reach in and wiggle the old ones off after I used a tooth scaler (looks like a flat blade screwdriver with the tip bent at a 90 degree angle) to initially separate the old cone from the pump. My boat only has 4 hours on it though so I'm sure that helped.

In case anyone else is doing it, I only needed 1 tube of EPNOC grease to do both sides.

Hope to get out today or tomorrow (marina called and my hoist is installed) and test it out.
IMG_20200419_1548493.jpg
 
Last edited:
Finally got my L13's installed yesterday! Starting with @swatski's recommendation of all 3 spacers starboard and 0 port. I did not have to pull the nozzles to do the swap. My 9 year old son was able to reach in and wiggle the old ones off after I used a tooth scaler (looks like a flat blade screwdriver with the tip bent at a 90 degree angle) to initially separate the old cone from the pump. My boat only has 4 hours on it though so I'm sure that helped.

Hope to get out today or tomorrow (marina called and my hoist is installed) and test it out.
View attachment 116408
Can’t wait to hear your feedback. This is one of those mods that I keep thinking about.
 
Can’t wait to hear your feedback. This is one of those mods that I keep thinking about.

What's to think about. This mod is worth every penny.
 
@swatski I bookmarked this thread last year because I planned to do the swap this spring. The grease you linked several pages back shows the product is no longer available -- https://redidriver.com/my-redi-driver-store/8-oz-ep-0-grease-for-redi-driver-free-shipping-in-usa/
do you know of another substitute?

Thanks again.

Partzilla sells the Yamaha Yamalube Epnoc Jet Pump Grease.

I believe this is the correct link but verify as I’m on my phone replying here.

 
Can’t wait to hear your feedback. This is one of those mods that I keep thinking about.
Sorry for the long delay. Water finally warmed up - got out quite a bit w/ Mabel last weekend. I definitely feel a difference. Boat really jumps out of the water (actually surprised me the first few times) and I didn't feel any cavitation in turns. Though I wasn't really whipping them since it was the first weekend of the season.

I did lose 3 mph on the top end (to 45 from 48) so keep that in mind if such things are important to you.

So I will say that it definitely improves the response and out of the hole. Haven't tried it ballasted yet but I'm confident it will help there too. That being said it is an expensive upgrade. I don't think it's an "OMG gotta have this thing today" mod, at least on a twin. Unless you are experiencing cavitation and/or regularly tow w/ a full load of passengers. But it makes the boat work better and makes it easier to drive. We didn't pull any adults this weekend (and only the 4 of us on board) but I think they'll appreciate the quicker launch as well.

As for the EPNOC grease, my local dealer had it for $5.42/tube.
 
So is all 3 spacers starboard and 0 port the best starting point?
 
So I scored a sweet deal on eBay and bought a barely used Lucky 13 cone for $200 shipped. I figured the install was pretty straight forward so I didn't research it much. I was in the process of installing it and ran into a concern. I noticed a handful of white chunks (about the size of a BB) in the grease in the OEM cone. I didnt think much of it so I re-used the same grease on the Lucky 13 and bolted it all back up. Something didnt site right so I figured I should post this. Anyone else experience this? I have a 2018 Ar190 with 152 hours.
 
Haven't experienced that, but have had my cones off before. The grease should be... well, just grease. No additives. If you have BB sized things in there, I bet that your bearing race is shot and needs replacement. I would not run it until you have that fixed...
 
I guess I should have stated that the BB sized things are not a consistent size. They are just clumps of grease that are a little more solid than normal. It's not like it's the actual ball bearings from the bearing itself.
 
Ok. That is a new one. Do the clumps 'crush' if you squeeze them?
 
Yes, the squish very easily. In fact, you can squish them enough that they go back to the consistency of the grease.
 
I wonder if the beading could have been caused by water getting in the cone?
 
Odd. Must be some contamination in there. If you can crush them back to regular consistency, probably not critical to replace the grease right now. But I would put it on my 'to do off season' list.
 
I wonder if the beading could have been caused by water getting in the cone?

This was actually my thought. I have never seen what water does to grease so Im unsure. My boat is a 2018 with 152 hours. I bought it used at 148 hours so there is no telling what kind of maintenance was performed the 1st 148 hours.
 
Back
Top