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Mr1 ecm

bronze_10

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of the people who have changed the ecu can anyone give me a few pointer.. how hard is it to remove... any pitfalls. any pictures of where it is located? lol
 

itsdgm

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You might lose no wake mode if you go with a WaveRunner ECU. I seem to remember reading that a while back.
 

Jgorm

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Another thing to keep in mind is that the ecm does not have to be the exact part number that you currently have. If you get one for the same hp engine that should work. This is per the jet ski rental company owner and repair guy I sold my a man fx cruiser with a bad ecm to. He called after the sale to confirm that a different part number ecm from a different year ski worked In The one I sold him. In your case one from any 230 ho 160 ho powered boat or similarly powered fx wave runner should work. Still, If you end up going used buy one that is refundable.
If you get a waverunner one you might have to rig up some sensors or rewire. My non ho waverunner had a iac valve that my boat does not. It's too keep some rpms when you let off the gas but have the bars turned. There is a roll over sensor too. They should still work with minimal extra effort.
 

buckbuck

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Ronnie

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It’s not hard to remove the ecm as it’s only held in by four mounting bolts and on connector but it is in the electrical box so there are quite a few bolts holding that in together and in position.

I’ve aeen used ecm on eBay going for $300 to $700 with the higher cost ones usually being refundable. $700 is not cheap but it is cheaper than $1,300.
 

bronze_10

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I have a hook up from someone on the forum who has one they took off an old motor they don't need. Its not upgraded or anything but its from the same model and year boat I have. I'm going to get that one and install it and see how it runs. In the meantime I been looking on the forum about how to drain all the oil out front the rear plug.. That's not going to be fun but all of my oil is contaminated with gas... And there is alot of it in there. The bottom drain plug seems like the best way to get it all out. So I gotta figure that out to. And all the while I am gonna be looking for any tale tale signs of any internal falure. It will start and run. And I turned it off as soon as I reached the no wake portion of the inlet.. But that doesn't mean something isn't cooked on the inside... A lot of "if's" right now..
 

Scottintexas

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fantastic new about the ECM, that will buy you some time to troubleshoot and fix it right,

FYI, I would suck as much oil as I could the normal way through the top so that when you do pull the drain plug you'll only have a qt to try to recover in that small area,
 

boudin

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Is there another thread somewhere where you document the actual symptoms with the motor?

-Greg
 

Scott griffith

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I did a complete drain this weekend from the bottom bolt it's not that bad but does take a few extra minutes
 

buckbuck

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It's a job to replace injectors. Be careful with the MAP sensor as you can snap off the pickup tube. IMG_2438.JPG IMG_2474.JPG
 

bronze_10

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This is the plug that came out of the nunber one cylinder.. . when it came out it was wet wwith gas that has obviously dried. These plugs were installed at the end of last season.. They have approxinately 30 hours on them.. Anyone see any issues or tale tale signs of a looming issue?
 

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This is the plug that came out of the nunber one cylinder.. . when it came out it was wet wwith gas that has obviously dried. These plugs were installed at the end of last season.. They have approxinately 30 hours on them.. Anyone see any issues or tale tale signs of a looming issue?
No pic Mike
 

Neutron

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If you drain the oil try and let it run through a clean rag or something similar to screen out any debris. And if you can contain the rest of the oil in a clean container. Shine a flashlight into the oil and see if it looks shimmery like metalflake in it when you swirl the oil around.
If no debris or shimmering oil then it might look a lot better for you
 

bronze_10

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If you drain the oil try and let it run through a clean rag or something similar to screen out any debris. And if you can contain the rest of the oil in a clean container. Shine a flashlight into the oil and see if it looks shimmery like metalflake in it when you swirl the oil around.
If no debris or shimmering oil then it might look a lot better for you
I am gonna drain it from the bottom of the engine and then run a magnet through it. I'll do the clear container thing as well. I also ordered a filter opener to cut open the oil filter when I take it off. I wanna see what if anything is trapped in the pleats!
 
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