My AR240 upgrades and stereo build.

[Firehouse100]

Just read though the post. Great set up. Did you put in the deka's. I tried finding the 29 series but only found the 31m which has an rc of 200. The interstate 29 has an rc of 210 which could net an additional 30 minutes of run time on the three. Have you ever thought of putting in a digital fuse block I'm courious to see the amp draw on your setup when you start cranking it up. I've see flashes of 70 on mine and I'm not running even close to your speakers output.

 

[redthumper9]

@redthumper9 how did you run your wires through the hull of your boat? I am about to help @Amar Nanduri install a stereo on his 2010 AR240, but the tower is different than my 2008 AR230 so it doesn't look like I can run it through the feet of the tower.

The speaker wires run to the bottom rear of the actual tower portion, then exit and re-enter the side portion of the tower (the part that mounts to the hull). It then continues toward the rear and exits the bottom of the aluminum tubing and into the hull. I used plastic bushing grommets and expandable mesh loom to cover the wires. The led wires do the same thing on the other side. I'd take a picture, but the boat is stored right now.

 

[redthumper9]

Just read though the post. Great set up. Did you put in the deka's. I tried finding the 29 series but only found the 31m which has an rc of 200. The interstate 29 has an rc of 210 which could net an additional 30 minutes of run time on the three. Have you ever thought of putting in a digital fuse block I'm courious to see the amp draw on your setup when you start cranking it up. I've see flashes of 70 on mine and I'm not running even close to your speakers output.

I never ended up changing the batteries yet. It was on the list to do this year, but honestly, the current ones did just fine this season. I have digital voltmeter at the helm that I check throughout the day to see how the batteries are holding up, but have never really measured the draw. Honestly, it never gets played at long periods of time. I love being able to show it off, but I'm not going to subject the entire sandbar to my music the entire day.

 

[PaulyB]

The speaker wires run to the bottom rear of the actual tower portion, then exit and re-enter the side portion of the tower (the part that mounts to the hull). It then continues toward the rear and exits the bottom of the aluminum tubing and into the hull. I used plastic bushing grommets and expandable mesh loom to cover the wires. The led wires do the same thing on the other side. I'd take a picture, but the boat is stored right now.

Did you use a grommet or anything on the hull or is it just a hole drilled?

 

[redthumper9]

@PaulyB.... Yes..... Same grommet (snap in bushing) used in hull that I used in tower

 

[redthumper9]

Finally.... after years of wishing, I broke down and bought a speed control system. Really liked what I saw from other members from Hydrophase so I went that route. Can't wait to get this thing installed and give it a shot. We have been doing a lot more towing over the last couple years, so this is a welcome addition for the captain!

 

[0627Devildog]

@redthumper9 - Can you share any insight as to how you routed your tower speaker wires / what you used to jump the wire from tower to hull (i.e. Speaker wire size/cover size-type/grommet size-type/etc......)

 

[LukePrinsloo]

@0627Devildog I"m very interested in as well. Looking at my 2011 I just see no way to run the wires hidden to tower speakers.

 

[redthumper9]

Sure. It's been a while, so I don't remember exactly the wire size. I remember it being ofc from Sky High car audio. I think it was 14 gauge or maybe 12 but I can double-check. I have all of the speaker wires running on one side of the Tower and all of the LED wires running out the other side. I used the fishing line and cotton ball method to get the wires started. Simply drill your exit hole where it comes out of the Tower, and then drill your holes where your speakers are mounted. Tie a cotton ball to a piece of fishing line and insert it into one of the holes for the speakers take a Shop-Vac to the exit hole and suck the cotton ball and fishing line to that point. It doesn't always work first time and you may have to put some tape over the other holes that you have drilled. With a little work you should eventually get it. Where the wires enter and exit the tower, I use what they call Snap in bushings. They are like a hard plastic grommet. I'll try and find a link. You will have to exit the tower and then reenter the perpendicular pieces of the Tower then run towards the back and exit that part into the hull. I used the same snap in bushings on all enter and exit points. Where the wires are exposed you can either use Loom or that expandable mesh Loom. If I can remember, I'll take some pictures of it when I get home.

 

[redthumper9]

These. Just fine the appropriate size for your project.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...DCJuzPzSW7bwfZyGoIpSyt3dL_OQov78aAgvQEALw_wcB

 

[redthumper9]

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/produ...5637!&ef_id=WQKPJgAAAnEOQ_L8:20180517125730:s

 

[0627Devildog]

What size screws are you using to mount the speakers? I have DB651's from @jcyamaharider '17 242XE so I do not have screws for installation. I am thinking a #6 or #8 SS pan head @ 3/4" should do. . . . . But want to be sure.

 

[redthumper9]

What size screws are you using to mount the speakers? I have DB651's from @jcyamaharider '17 242XE so I do not have screws for installation. I am thinking a #6 or #8 SS pan head @ 3/4" should do. . . . . But want to be sure.

Honestly can't remember. 3/4" should easily be long enough.... #6 or #8 would be fine I think. Id use the larger one if it worked with the speakers.

 

[0627Devildog]

@redthumper9 - Cant promise this will be the last question on the subject but I am getting close. . . . lol

Did you jump out of the tower and go around the joint where the tower folds? Or did you drill through the joints and run the wires straight thru?

 

[redthumper9]

My tower doesn't fold, but here you go......