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Need advice, starboard engine (1.8L) stalling.

rkluck

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Yes the plugs do effect the performance and running as well as stalling when coming off of a run (sports or docking). The engine would die and when docking that was a real problem since I would lose control (I use the engines to steer more than anything else. When playing in the water I just won't always notice it until I was ready to take off again. In my case these were the original plugs so maybe the factory did not have the right gap. I changed the plugs every year since then to be safe. This is year I thought I would stretch this out to two years. So far no problems! :)
 

Englewoodcowboy

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I just had my 10 hour service and had them replace the plugs due to rough idle etc. and the motors did not turn up equal rpm's when at WOT. Now they do and the idle is smooth on both motors, it was only rough on one. The plugs all look mint, perfect burn etc. but it def. fixed the problem. I will be running an ohm test on them and noting the difference and will report that back but the point is on visual inspection they look as if they are functioning properly. My dealer got them replaced under warranty.
 

rkluck

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That is what my dealer did as well. It will interesting to see if you find any other issues with the plugs.
 

Englewoodcowboy

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I just grabbed the plugs and tested the resistance on the center electrode as follows"
Port side 4.98,4.87,5.12 and 5.20
Stud side 4.83,5.08,5.15 and 4.98

The rough idles was the port motor and it may just have been the one plug that was reading higher than the rest though to look at them I would not hesitate to re-use if I didn't know there was an issue... there could also be an issue in the ground strap as well, most looked identical but one had a little difference in shape at the tip. more flat than concave which could also lead to a pattern issue. Only way to tell is rig up some way to ignite them and watch the pattern but that is for more than I am willing to do at the moment.
 

rkluck

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Thanks. I have some of my old plugs at the lake (backups). I am going to do the same just to see how they compare in general.
 

Englewoodcowboy

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The 2 plugs with higher resistance on the port engine could very well have caused the less than smooth idle since at an idle the power being sent to the plugs is minimal and the frequency is less.
 

Captain Stubing

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I'll take any suggestions or advice from the experts on this forum.

Boat: 2012 212X, 1.8 liter engines, approx. 170 hours accumulated.

Problem: starboard engine stalling occasionally, usually when at low rpm, near idle, or decelerating to idle. Yesterday it stalled when at 6000 rpm, first time that happened. The engine usually starts right back up. Only once, earlier this week, it would crank but not start - then started up a few minutes later. This stalling issue has never occurred until this year. The boat has been completely trouble free since new. Maintenance has been on schedule since the boat was new. Fresh oil and plugs at the start of this Summer.

Diagnostics: No blockage for cooling water. Checked engine compartment for loose wires, found none. My gut feel is that this should be an intermittent fuel delivery problem since there is no recognizable symptoms just minutes after a stall.

Any ideas or similar problems out there? (I saw the right engine stalling thread for the SR230 model but that is a different engine)

Thanks in advance,
BK
I'll take any suggestions or advice from the experts on this forum.

Boat: 2012 212X, 1.8 liter engines, approx. 170 hours accumulated.

Problem: starboard engine stalling occasionally, usually when at low rpm, near idle, or decelerating to idle. Yesterday it stalled when at 6000 rpm, first time that happened. The engine usually starts right back up. Only once, earlier this week, it would crank but not start - then started up a few minutes later. This stalling issue has never occurred until this year. The boat has been completely trouble free since new. Maintenance has been on schedule since the boat was new. Fresh oil and plugs at the start of this Summer.

Diagnostics: No blockage for cooling water. Checked engine compartment for loose wires, found none. My gut feel is that this should be an intermittent fuel delivery problem since there is no recognizable symptoms just minutes after a stall.

Any ideas or similar problems out there? (I saw the right engine stalling thread for the SR230 model but that is a different engine)

Thanks in advance,
BK
Had a similar issue with starboard engine, it was the clean out port hatch -- the starboard side latch wasn't tight enough. It was a simple adjustment of that and it went away. The reason you may see this problem occur when wake boarding or towing is that you are likely sitting on or standing on the hatch and when you take the pressure off the sensor may indicate that the hatch is open thus shutting off the engine. Just a suggestion.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

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When I have an idle issue I add fuel injector cleaner to the fuel and that usually fixes it, my plugs have about 175 hours on them. Funny because I have one engine that always idles smooth and one that will idle rough occasionally, the smooth one was the one that hatched a timing chain, not that it is related to the chain but it's just funny that you never know. But the injectors do get dirty so adding injector cleaner helps.
 

dan144k

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Probably safety switches for clean out hatch on rear swim deck door. Have someone bounce on the middle of the hatch while boat is going. See if the safety switch kills the motor(S)
 

Guy in a Boat

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This happened to me for the first time yesterday. Mayden voyage after the overhaul on a 2012 242. My hatch is warped up slightly on the switch side (starboard). Limped home on one motor then had the lady sit there and ram on home. Kids were sad we couldn’t tube. After it was home I realized I could have put a bottle cap over it and shut the door on it, oh well. My switch is good just too short do you the warped hatch, about a quarter inch. I’m not going to completely pull them. I will run down to the hardware store and buy two brass plugs with the same thread and screw a cap over each one for a full compress of the switch. Then I can take them off if I need to work.
 
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