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Once you get that answer you then want to find an amp that will be able to produce at least 60-70% of your total rms wattage. You don’t want an amp that pushes more wattage than your speakers can produce.
I had to pull this out because this is very misinformative and could cause someone to blow their speaker. Without getting too technical - you want to get as close to RMS as possible, if not over. The reason being is the speaker won't perform how you want it when you under power it, because of this people have a tendency to turn it up more. This causes the amplifier to clip. Clipping causes extreme heat, which is the primary cause of speaker failure. On the flip side, if you over-power a speaker with a clean signal, you will often find with the correct filters you can run at least double the RMS with no issues (and it may out-perform your expectations). Very rarely does overpowering a speaker cause it to fail. Also note, with extra power you can always turn down your gain so your amplifier isn't working as hard. Overheard is ALWAYS a good thing.
I had to pull this out because this is very misinformative and could cause someone to blow their speaker. Without getting too technical - you want to get as close to RMS as possible, if not over. The reason being is the speaker won't perform how you want it when you under power it, because of this people have a tendency to turn it up more. This causes the amplifier to clip. Clipping causes extreme heat, which is the primary cause of speaker failure. On the flip side, if you over-power a speaker with a clean signal, you will often find with the correct filters you can run at least double the RMS with no issues (and it may out-perform your expectations). Very rarely does overpowering a speaker cause it to fail. Also note, with extra power you can always turn down your gain so your amplifier isn't working as hard. Overheard is ALWAYS a good thing.
Do you have any panel flex with the two woofers there? My concern would be the two big holes significantly weaken the fiberglass. I plan on doing something similar in a different spot, but will be re-enforcing the whole back side with 1/2" PVC board.
Thanks! I haven’t had any issues so far, the place that installed the subs did add some reinforcement board on the fiberglass. People can still sit on that side as well they just get a vibrating butt massage lol. No rattling or anything occurs either and the seat covers still fit perfectly in place. The subs magnets are also small enough and out of the way so I can still fill up my ballasts no problem and store things in that compartment when not using the ballasts
Well boys and girls, the system is now complete. I am very happy with the outcome. I just made a simple sealed box per JL's specs (.875cf) and sprayed the crap out of it with rubber undercoating inside and out. I just need to remove the sub grill from the box and cut a hole to vent it. I was really surprised from the m10w5 as I have never used a 10" sub before. All 12's in large ported boxes in my vehicles. I was expecting it to fill in the mids a little bit but boy did it surprise me. Nice clean deep bass. My wife was in the house and thought I was messing with my Escalade's system! I think all my amps match perfectly with each speaker. I was thinking the jl m600/6 would not be enough bridged for the sub (200rms) but their website actually states that is the ideal range. Here is a quick breakdown of the system.
(6) ws xs650's 100rms ran with a ws htx-6 pushing 100 rms to each speaker
(2) ws revo 8's 150rms bridged to a RF m400-4 200rms each gain turned down
(2) wet sounds rev 8's 200 rms bridged to 4 channels on a jl m600/6 getting 200rms each
(1) jl m10w5 250rms bridged to channels 5+6 on the jl m600/6 getting 200rms
Now I need to upgrade the batteries. Not sure what size the factory interstate batteries are but I unplugged my duel bank charger to see what the voltage would read and it quickly went down to 12.4v and then seemed to stay around 12 after 20 minutes of playing. With no bass in a song it would jump back to 12.4. What should I do about the batteries?
@adrianp89 do you think I should leave my 2 factory batteries in and run 2 seperate batteries for the stereo? Or just get another battery and run it parallel with the house battery. If I run 2 house batteries in parallel would I need a 3 bank charger?
Honestly - I would jam with what you have for now and see how it does. If you have issues I would upgrade to the biggest battery you can and see how it does. I really think two batteries will be fine... but my experience here (running system only off battery) is extremely limited.
I am thinking of eventually going with the two largest Kinetik batteries that can fit in the cubby, when the time comes.
You have 3 amps, and if you plan on playing for any length the 2 house batteries are a must imho....then 1 start battery. I've run a similar setup for 6+yrs on 2 diff boats with no issue.
Amoung others I like interstate marine deep cycle batteries, prob 300 for 2, and have a good reserve capacity so you can bang all day.
Haven't heard of some of the others and not a big fan of optimas...overpriced and seen some buddies still get low battery signals.
You have 3 amps, and if you plan on playing for any length the 2 house batteries are a must imho....then 1 start battery. I've run a similar setup for 6+yrs on 2 diff boats with no issue.
Amoung others I like interstate marine deep cycle batteries, prob 300 for 2, and have a good reserve capacity so you can bang all day.
Haven't heard of some of the others and not a big fan of optimas...overpriced and seen some buddies still get low battery signals.
So if I wire another battery to the house bank in parallel would I still be able to use my duel bank 20 amp charger?
Edit: I did read that you should charge batteries in parallel by connecting to the negative on one battery and to the positive on the other battery.
Edit 2: when adding a 2nd house battery do I just run positive to positive and negative to negative to the factory house battery setup on my 17' ar240? I haven't really checked how they are running the starter and house battery now.
So if I wire another battery to the house bank in parallel would I still be able to use my duel bank 20 amp charger?
Edit: I did read that you should charge batteries in parallel by connecting to the negative on one battery and to the positive on the other battery.
Edit 2: when adding a 2nd house battery do I just run positive to positive and negative to negative to the factory house battery setup on my 17' ar240? I haven't really checked how they are running the starter and house battery now.
You can charge both batteries by wiring in parallel but they should be the same barnd, type, size and age. Even then not optimal but ok. The batteries you got are not factory but rather what the dealer installs from their stock during prep. Dealers get batteries from local distributors/suppliers. My dealer used Interstate for their supplier. I negotiated with my dealer when I ordered my boat to install two Interstate group 31 agms (one start and one house). They are great batteries for a lot of reasons and I highly recommend them for this application.
I haven't seen the Pepboys Marine batteries listed online that I run....so if/when I do swamp mine out I'll prob go the Interstate route as well. Ive had those as well and they were solid, I just was new to boating and didnt keep them on a charge properly.
The nice thing about the PepBoys Marine batteries was they were cheap, and have a 2yr free replacement warranty. I suspect they are just a branded battery but I can vouch for their performance over the last 4+ years, not to mention I was able to get both house batteries replaced within the warranty period no questions asked. Interstate is only a 12mo warranty.
If you plan on planing for long periods then 3 batteries is your safest option, unless you can plug up every night to charge them, and even then a full day would likely cause the dreaded low battery beeping.
I do have my pro charger running 24/7. @Mainah@Jaylex@swatski@adrianp89 I'm in the middle of cutting my sub vent out and I started with my 5" hole saw. This will be covered with the 10" grill. I do notice the sub is a little louder after putting my hand over the hole and then removing it. Do you think if I make the hole larger it will sound even better. I'm happy with the sound but just want to make sure it's performing to the best of it's ability before I put my tools away. Thanks in advance.
I assume right now you essentially have created a bandpass box with a 5" opening. I think yes the bigger opening the better. If it's being covered by the grill, I would make it as big as the grill covers.
So when you vent these enclosed subs does the larger vents help...I was thinking of venting my subs on two sides of the bench, behind the seats and also into the cabin hoping that maximizing the vent space it will let the max bass escape
So when you vent these enclosed subs does the larger vents help...I was thinking of venting my subs on two sides of the bench, behind the seats and also into the cabin hoping that maximizing the vent space it will let the max bass escape
I have only 1 10" sub in a sealed box behind the captains chair so I'll tell you what I found with this setup. I wasn't sure if I was going to vent or not so I hooked up the sub and closed the seat and got it all tuned. While listening to music I slowly lifted the seat to see if it helped with the bass levels which it did. To my ears the sound was not any louder with the seat all the way open as opposed to opened only 3". This is why I started with a 5" vent. So after some more testing I decided I would cut out a 8.5" hole which is roughly the mounting size for the sub. That seemed to do the trick. Once complete, I opened the seat and did not hear a difference in sound levels. Obviously with a spl meter this would be more accurate. If I had multiple subs in there I probably would cut in 2 vents.
Waiting on my wet sounds grill to get here, ordered from eBay and I will put this grill back on the sub and put the ws grill over the hole so it matches all the other grills.
are you getting a lot of vibration from your sub?
I seem to hear a lot of rattle from the helm, I think the plastic insert that holds the cup holder area
are you getting a lot of vibration from your sub?
I seem to hear a lot of rattle from the helm, I think the plastic insert that holds the cup holder area
