Oil change / Maintenance day

[FLJetBoater]

Changed my oil and filters today @ 230 hrs. Took about 3.2 qts out of each engine. It was dirrrrrrty. Changed spark plugs too. I refilled 3 qts and 12 oz in each. The dipstick was reading low before I did the change so I put a bit more in than I took out. Oil change was done right after 5 min engine flush on trailer and engines were level.

Question - what’s the proper way to check oil level now? Should I wait until I put it in the water again? Run first or no?

 

[tdonoughue]

For your year, it does not matter if you run first or no. Do run it a bit after changing the oil, just to get oil in the filter and pumped around the system--that will change the level. But there is no need to run the engines normally before checking the oil. Level the engines (or the boat by putting it on the water), pull & wipe dipstick, put in again, pull and read.

I sometimes need to rewipe and reread with new oil... Or turn the dipstick over to see the actual level.

 

[FLJetBoater]

For your year, it does not matter if you run first or no. Do run it a bit after changing the oil, just to get oil in the filter and pumped around the system--that will change the level. But there is no need to run the engines normally before checking the oil. Level the engines (or the boat by putting it on the water), pull & wipe dipstick, put in again, pull and read.

I sometimes need to rewipe and reread with new oil... Or turn the dipstick over to see the actual level.

Thanks. So just run it for a bit (can leave hose off?) like 20-30s good enough?

 

[tdonoughue]

Oh, not even that long. 10-20s is plenty. You just need enough time to get that oil pumped through the system a time or two. People will yell at me, but I would not bother with the hose for that long...

Another benefit of doing it on the water: don't have to worry about the hose. (downside: if you screw something up, you are out on the water and need a tow...)

 

[FLJetBoater]

Oh, not even that long. 10-20s is plenty. You just need enough time to get that oil pumped through the system a time or two. People will yell at me, but I would not bother with the hose for that long...

Another benefit of doing it on the water: don't have to worry about the hose. (downside: if you screw something up, you are out on the water and need a tow...)

Alright cool thanks I’ll fire them up for a few seconds in the morning again and check them out. So the level shouldn’t change much when cold Vs hot?

 

[tdonoughue]

No, shouldn't change much. Where you needed to worry about running the engine first was with some of the older models where they have an oil sump. Then you need to run the engine first to pump the oil into the sump to check the level. Our types of engines the oil just gets measured directly. Yes, warmer oil will have slightly more volume, but not even enough that you would be able to detect it on the dipstick (unlike something like auto transmission fluid, which has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion). Besides, I usually shoot for the middle of the dipstick. That way I have some margin of error. Overfilling is a big no no on these boats--it will cause oil to splash up on the air filter and cause all sorts of issues.

 

[FLJetBoater]

No, shouldn't change much. Where you needed to worry about running the engine first was with some of the older models where they have an oil sump. Then you need to run the engine first to pump the oil into the sump to check the level. Our types of engines the oil just gets measured directly. Yes, warmer oil will have slightly more volume, but not even enough that you would be able to detect it on the dipstick (unlike something like auto transmission fluid, which has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion). Besides, I usually shoot for the middle of the dipstick. That way I have some margin of error. Overfilling is a big no no on these boats--it will cause oil to splash up on the air filter and cause all sorts of issues.

Awesome thanks!!

 

[Canuckjetboater]

.....of course ALWAYS heat your oil to operating temperature before changing it (and the filter). Your oil was "dirty" - naughty boy!!!!!

 

[drewkaree]

Question - what’s the proper way to check oil level now?

Tongue only, this way you'll be able to know when to change it next time. Taste is the best method for verification.

My invoice is in the mail for you ?

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Changed my oil and filters today @ 230 hrs. Took about 3.2 qts out of each engine. It was dirrrrrrty. Changed spark plugs too. I refilled 3 qts and 12 oz in each. The dipstick was reading low before I did the change so I put a bit more in than I took out. Oil change was done right after 5 min engine flush on trailer and engines were level.

Question - what’s the proper way to check oil level now? Should I wait until I put it in the water again? Run first or no?

@FLJetBoater .....want a tip from an old boat guy regarding how to find the proper oil level in your boat? I have done this with every I/O boat I have ever owned and am now doing it with my (first ever) jet boat. When on land I level the engine on a trailer or truck, check the location of the proper oil level on the dipstick and note it. As soon as I put the boat into the water I immediately check where it is on the dipstick. That is where it should be for reference. As long as I don't change (significantly) the weight or distribution of the weight in the boat that level is where the oil should always be when it is in the water or on land for that matter. I have done this with 19 foot bow riders to 38 foot cruisers with twin 502 Magnum HOs. Works every time. My 2 cents on the oil level issue. BTW yes, the coefficients of volumetric expansion have changed with synthetic oils ( ALL oils now sold in N.A. except specialty oils) have a synthetic component or they would not pass EPA standards BUT I still follow old school rules of bringing the oil temperature to operating engine temperature as I am clearly OCD.

 

[FLJetBoater]

.....of course ALWAYS heat your oil to operating temperature before changing it (and the filter). Your oil was "dirty" - naughty boy!!!!!

Lol yes I did. It was run for about 5 mins prior to removing.
The PO told me it was changed recently but after some heavy use in July and August thought it was best to change if. Glad I did!

 

[Mhamann75]

What’s the easiest way to get the oil out of the 1.8 NA? I have a pump(manual) but it takes forever

 

[FLJetBoater]

What’s the easiest way to get the oil out of the 1.8 NA? I have a pump(manual) but it takes forever

I ordered this. Worked like a charm.
Pump

 

[biffdotorg]

I ordered this. Worked like a charm.
Pump

That's the one I use. It's slow, but worked. I obviously need to warm mine up more this fall prior. As I never got that much out. You are pretty much a rockstar getting over 3qrts with that pump.

Nice work.

 

[FLJetBoater]

That's the one I use. It's slow, but worked. I obviously need to warm mine up more this fall prior. As I never got that much out. You are pretty much a rockstar getting over 3qrts with that pump.

Nice work.

Really? wow....Ran the engines for 5 minutes before. I would say it took about 5-10 mins to pump out the 3 qts? Seemed to be a pretty good flow. The pump did start to get hot after that long but otherwise worked perfect.

The design is a bit weird with different size hoses. I'm not sure why you need a super small hose on one side to fit into the dip stick plug, but then a hose twice or more the size on the output side. Seemed to push half air and half oil through the output hose which meant I had to sit and hold it otherwise it would sink into the bucket and start blowing air bubbles.

 

[biffdotorg]

I saw the same thing. Mine was very obviously too cool. It was my first 1.8ltr oil change, so I was not sure how warm, was warm. I know better now and my just do it on my lift after some running on the lake so I don't have to mess with the flush hoses.