Pee hole overheat incident, need advice

[n1111z]

2018 242 LSE, 70 hours, went motoring in skinny weedy water today. Coming home got overheat warning and no pee on starboard engine. Limped home on port motor, about an hour. Put it on the lift, opened up the ports and both were clean as a whistle (left port was full of warm water, right port only had a little cool water in it). Hooked up the hose to starbord engine and it started right up. I didn't run it long enough to heat up but there was water exiting the jet. No water out of the pee hole but there never is on the hose. Of course the "overheat check with Yamaha dealer" message was there. What's my next move? I bought extended warranty with dockside service but it's Sunsports in Ft. Myers so there's that. What's my next move? PS is there a risk in limping home on one motor with the newer Yams? I've heard yes and no.

 

[fireflymedic]

There is a screen in the jet tube engine cooling water comes from. Could be blocked.

 

[sunbyrned]

I’ve never had this problem so I might not help much other than to say I always have water coming out while on a hose, which makes me think there might have been a problem building up for a while. In addition to checking the screen, you might try running some weed eater line through the holes to check for clogging there. (Something I’ve read on this forum.)

 

[VitaminSea]

Since it sounds like you have it on the water (lift), what happens if you go back out and run it for a few minutes? You might of had blockage, and it could have cleared on the way home.
Other potentials could be the screen as mentioned above, or you could have debris in the bump. I once had a little stick/twig like structure from some aquatic grass. I was able to remove it by taking a wire hanger, snipping it and making a little hook on the end and fishing it out of the pump.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

2018 242 LSE, 70 hours, went motoring in skinny weedy water today. Coming home got overheat warning and no pee on starboard engine. Limped home on port motor, about an hour. Put it on the lift, opened up the ports and both were clean as a whistle (left port was full of warm water, right port only had a little cool water in it). Hooked up the hose to starbord engine and it started right up. I didn't run it long enough to heat up but there was water exiting the jet. No water out of the pee hole but there never is on the hose. Of course the "overheat check with Yamaha dealer" message was there. What's my next move? I bought extended warranty with dockside service but it's Sunsports in Ft. Myers so there's that. What's my next move? PS is there a risk in limping home on one motor with the newer Yams? I've heard yes and no.

@n1111z ..... good advice on clearing any potential blockages. A minor over heat is no big deal. To be sure onc you have cleared any blockages you can have your dealer clear the overheat code from your engine's data memory using their computer software and hook-up cable which takes about 5 minutes to delete the code. While doing this the tech can bread the data stream on his/her screen and see how long that engine was hot and to what "degree" is was hot. Looking at your plugs is another option but only if the engine was severely heated should that show on them.

 

[swatski]

2018 242 LSE, 70 hours, went motoring in skinny weedy water today. Coming home got overheat warning and no pee on starboard engine. Limped home on port motor, about an hour. Put it on the lift, opened up the ports and both were clean as a whistle (left port was full of warm water, right port only had a little cool water in it). Hooked up the hose to starbord engine and it started right up. I didn't run it long enough to heat up but there was water exiting the jet. No water out of the pee hole but there never is on the hose. Of course the "overheat check with Yamaha dealer" message was there. What's my next move? I bought extended warranty with dockside service but it's Sunsports in Ft. Myers so there's that. What's my next move? PS is there a risk in limping home on one motor with the newer Yams? I've heard yes and no.

If you have a trailer, pulling the pump is always a good idea and it does not take much time.
It could be something very small stuck in there causing cavitation and poor cooling.
SOmething like this - barely impacting performance:


Are your batteries fresh and charged up? Low voltage is a known source of spurious codes and CELs in these boats.

One quick way to try to clear the code is to disconnect the batteries (at the terminals) and leave it disconnected for a few minutes, it may rest the system and clear the codes.

As far as water flow on a hose, it varies with water pressure available. I usually see at least a trickle, at least for the initial couple of minutes, as the engines warm up it may stop almost completely while it runs out through the pump:



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[n1111z]

So I got under the boat and the intakes were clean. Ran weedeater string about 4 feet into pissers, put the boat in the water, started up and had good stream out both holes. Still had a light but it went away soon as the engines came on. Put it back on the lift disconnected batts for 1/2 hour, started back up 2 or 3 times and warning was still on initially. Put the tools away, hooked up the hose to flush, no light at all now. Anything else I need to do?

 

[sunbyrned]

This is good news! Notice any water running out the pissers while on the hose? Just curious if that helped any there.

 

[Elliott]

Since no one else addressed the limping home on one engine part, you will want to install valves or simply buy locking plastic radiator hose clamps at your local auto parts store for the cooling system. If you travel at a high enough rate of speed for long enough with an engine off, water can be forced into the cooling system, but since your engine is not running it can back up into the engine (through an open exhaust valve). If the water reaches the cylinder, the engine will hydro-lock upon cranking; thereby, damaging the engine severely. Search for full explanations with photos and how to avoid.

 

[Scottintexas]

the fact that you were able to start the engine means you don't have a water ingestion issue, just be aware in the future, idle speed only on one engine,

I'd agree more than likely you had some debris either in the grate, impeller or on the screen disrupting the cooling water flow and when you came off plane or put it on the trailer the debris fell off and now your fine,


.

 

[n1111z]

Never have had flow either hole on the hose, don't think I have enough pressure.

 

[sunbyrned]

Never have had flow either hole on the hose, don't think I have enough pressure.

Thanks! Just curious. Hope everything is worked out now.

 

[n1111z]

Sorry, I did a cursory search, but where are these cooling lines and what do they look like?

 

[Elliott]

Sorry, I did a cursory search, but where are these cooling lines and what do they look like?

https://jetboaters.net/faq/#faq-81

Also, you can just use the radiator hose clamp(s) in the same area.

 

[drewkaree]

Sorry, I did a cursory search, but where are these cooling lines and what do they look like?

https://jetboaters.net/threads/towing-jet-boat-behind-house-boat-should-you-clamp-off-water-intake-to-protect-engine.25158/#post-420903

 

[n1111z]

thanks everybody

 

[swatski]

Since no one else addressed the limping home on one engine part, you will want to install valves or simply buy locking plastic radiator hose clamps at your local auto parts store for the cooling system. If you travel at a high enough rate of speed for long enough with an engine off, water can be forced into the cooling system, but since your engine is not running it can back up into the engine (through an open exhaust valve). If the water reaches the cylinder, the engine will hydro-lock upon cranking; thereby, damaging the engine severely. Search for full explanations with photos and how to avoid.

Great catch!

@n1111z if not valve, or clamp at hand, running at no wake speed with one motor off is okay, too. It is also recommended to push the binnacle for the "off" motor forward to open the reverse bucket up, it will prevent water pressure building up and reduce hydrolock risk.

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[tsecor]

Having similar problem. 2007 SX230. She will run at 8-10K rpm, cranking along for about 20min. Then I get an overheat warning on the port engine and the rpms drop to 3000. Now I'm limping home with one motor at 7000rpm and one at 3000rpm. I took it to a local shop. They hooked it to the computer and said there's no indication of overheating in the computer. Water comes out of the stern pee holes just fine for both motors, but no water coms out of the front pee holes at all for either engine. I disconnected the hoses at the exhaust and blew water out the pee holes. Hooked the hose back up, ran both engines and still no water out the front pee holes. I've change the spark plugs in the port engine and that only seemed to add 5 min of run time before I got the overheat light again. This time it allowed me to crank the rpms back up to 7000 on the port engine., but the light stayed on. Running out of ideas. Sure could use some advice for someone who doesn't have the skills to start pulling the motor apart. And the boat is in a high/dry so they limit the amount of work I can do on site.