Perfect pass install

[RXBoost]

Where did you guys Velcro the GPS antenna puck?

 

[scokill]

Where did you guys Velcro the GPS antenna puck?

So my cable just comes out of the instrument panel and it's screwed back in. Velcro in the middle of dash closest to driver. You could cut a little notch but I didn't bother. Just didn't tighten it down like crazy.

 

[dgfreeze]

I've got a Garmin mounted just to the right of the steering wheel, on top of the gunnel. I velcro'd mine just forward of the Garmin, on the gunnel, so there's as much protection via the windshield as possible. Also less noticeable. Ran the wire down the dash cover, and in through the same hole I made for my Garmin. Wires are all hidden except for a few inches between the puck and the dash cover.

@scokill I am surprised to hear of your issues... I feel like basically everyone else I've seen talk about it has been very happy with the reliability of the unit. I'll be taking extra caution to make sure I keep components dry and happy now, thanks...

 

[Scottintexas]

My LCD screen is black now. It's still usable but barely. Emailed today to see how much a replacement would be. I see it online at a number of places. Looks like it's around $300. With the GPS antenna going out, and replacing one servo motor, I will have spent around $1,000 in repair/replacement parts over about 10 years.

Again??? didn't you replace that a few years ago ?? I just replaced mine over the winter, I sent it back and they also reprogrammed the unit for a GPS update, it ended up being about $100 cheaper than just buying a unit,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/perfect-pass-black-cloud-on-the-display.9440/#post-415724

Where did you guys Velcro the GPS antenna puck?

I Velcro mine under the helm ceiling, it works well, I didn't want to fish it through to the top side

I've got a Garmin mounted just to the right of the steering wheel, on top of the gunnel. I velcro'd mine just forward of the Garmin, on the gunnel, so there's as much protection via the windshield as possible. Also less noticeable. Ran the wire down the dash cover, and in through the same hole I made for my Garmin. Wires are all hidden except for a few inches between the puck and the dash cover.

@scokill I am surprised to hear of your issues... I feel like basically everyone else I've seen talk about it has been very happy with the reliability of the unit. I'll be taking extra caution to make sure I keep components dry and happy now, thanks...

We've had a few 3-5 members that have reported this problem over the dozen years I've been around, not sure what causes it,


.

 

[scokill]

Again??? didn't you replace that a few years ago ?? I just replaced mine over the winter, I sent it back and they also reprogrammed the unit for a GPS update, it ended up being about $100 cheaper than just buying a unit,

https://jetboaters.net/threads/perfect-pass-black-cloud-on-the-display.9440/#post-415724

I Velcro mine under the helm ceiling, it works well, I didn't want to fish it through to the top side



We've had a few 3-5 members that have reported this problem over the dozen years I've been around, not sure what causes it,


.

I've only replaced the GPS antenna and servo motor. Never an issue with the display....but it is very interesting that I paid like $250 for a new GPS antenna which they said a battery runs down inside the gps antenna and is not replaceable, which seems really unbelievable and the price is really outragous, but supply and demand I guess.. If it was just a software update I kinda got ripped off.

I'll let you know what I hear as I just emailed them.

 

[scokill]

I've got a Garmin mounted just to the right of the steering wheel, on top of the gunnel. I velcro'd mine just forward of the Garmin, on the gunnel, so there's as much protection via the windshield as possible. Also less noticeable. Ran the wire down the dash cover, and in through the same hole I made for my Garmin. Wires are all hidden except for a few inches between the puck and the dash cover.

@scokill I am surprised to hear of your issues... I feel like basically everyone else I've seen talk about it has been very happy with the reliability of the unit. I'll be taking extra caution to make sure I keep components dry and happy now, thanks...

I'm happy with it as there are no other options. Everything is dry. The servo motors get very hot and they will eventually go out. I'm not sure why one did and one didn't though. Remember too that this has been a decade or more.

 

[RXBoost]

@dgfreeze @Scottintexas I'm having all kinds of trouble with the throttle cable adjustment. I can't get it dialed in at all. Not sure what to do.... I have no room left on the screw to tighten the nut - I'm out of thread!

 

[Scottintexas]

I'm going to have to look at my instructions, not sure if I'll be able to respond tonight

 

[dgfreeze]

You’re talking about the original cables, where they connect to the brass “L”? And if so, are you running out of thread on the end of the cable, or the other way, like it wasn’t threaded far enough?

 

[RXBoost]

You’re talking about the original cables, where they connect to the brass “L”? And if so, are you running out of thread on the end of the cable, or the other way, like it wasn’t threaded far enough?

I can make it go either way all the way to the end of the threads. So the part of the instructions that says to turn the dial to make it snug, then turn it back counter clockwise and then back clockwise and it should operate the throttle - that doesn't happen. Is that something I can video to show you guys or am I reading the instructions incorrectly?

The port side seemed to go much easier than starboard, but it still doesn't do the whole thing with the dial.

I'll see if I can get a video real quick and some pics.

 

[dgfreeze]

Pics or a video would help a lot. If you turn the key on, do the servos do their thing, and pull the throttle cable arm? And if so, this is the position you’re attaching the throttles, correct? And leave a slight bit of slack in them, so the engines can return to idle without running out of cable.

 

[RXBoost]

I have a video uploading to YT right now and will post the link once done. I have attached a few pics to this post.

So I haven't run any of the wiring/gauge yet - I have only done the work in the engine bay, so maybe I have to see what happens after installing the wiring?

So your question about attaching the throttle cables - I didnt do any adjusting at all to the PP throttle cable on the port side that is controlled by the black knob. I did adjust the one on the starboard side to get the pull it snug against the bracket that the boat's throttle cable is attached to - thats why the thread is a little bit shorter on the end that is more towards the back of the boat. 99% of the adjusting I was doing was with the boat's throttle cable that is attached to the brass L bracket. At first when I attached it the boat wouldn't go full throttle (the throttle bodies wouldnt open all the way when the actual throttle levers were to the floor). So I adjusted all of that and got it correct (I think). Though at idle (throttle pushed forward to the click), the throttle bodies are still closed as if I am in neutral.

 

[RXBoost]

Here's the video

 

[RXBoost]

I got all the in dash things hooked up. I used the power and ground from the ignition for the unit. I'm not getting anything showing up on the display when I turn the engines on.

 

[Scottintexas]

My instructions said not to use the ignition,

 

[RXBoost]

My instructions said not to use the ignition,

View attachment 126439

I actually had it on the old speedometer wires at first and had no power so I googled the install and will Owen actually used the ignition so that's what I tried.

I also don't have the sheet you posted, and have nothing that plugs into the rpm sensor.

Its too bad their support isnt open on the weekend, was hoping to get this done before tomorrow.

 

[RXBoost]

Alright, well I went outside, changed the power/ground BACK over to the old speedometer wires and now it all works. I moved the splice about 1/2" from where I had it earlier, maybe it just wasnt a good splice with that L connector the first time. So now its just time to water test it hopefully in the next day or 2.

 

[dgfreeze]

Ok, sorry, I been teaching a concealed carry class all day, haven’t had time to catch up on this for ya. In regards to your video, the lever that your original cables are attached to won’t move when you turn the servo knob unless your throttles are pushed forward. Try pushing your throttles forward, and turning the knob again. The lever should move then. Also, I haven’t water tested mine, so I don’t have the cables tuned in yet, but here’s what I did as a preliminary “dry tune”. First, adjust both throttle cables to where there was very little “slack” in the cables. It looked like your starboard engine has a bit of slack, maybe tighten that one up to match the port cable. I then started both engines, and give them a quick throttle bump, while looking at the tachometers. Be sure to shut them down quickly. Whichever engine revved up first (early), I adjusted the cable for that engine and added a little more slack. Kept repeating until both engines revved up equally. I’d like to believe that will get me in the ballpark. Just be sure to not overheat the engines from running them without water. I literally started them up, gave them a quick (mild) rev, and shut them down. 5-10 seconds max.

 

[RXBoost]

So I have started both engines and revved, but I havent tried to rev them together, was going to wait til on the water to do that.

Is the only way to get the slack out of that starboard cable to make sure there is less thread showing on the black plastic block side? It DOES look like there is less distance between the throttle cable joiner (the circular aluminum ring) on one side than the other. Im really hoping to get it in the water tomorrow evening to check this, I am really anxious to get it dialed in, I am just so afraid I did something wrong somewhere.

So another about the PP throttle cable that comes off of the servo - so you say it isnt supposed to really move unless the throttles are pushed forward. How does the system control the speed of the boat? Like you gun it go get going, then it hits say 11mph and lowers the RPMs of the boat to hold speed, will the PP throttle cable cause the lever to push back?

 

[dgfreeze]

Yeah, make the starboard threads of the throttle cable look more like port side. How the system works, is the servos hold that arm where it is, and once You speed up, and the system kicks in, the servos start releasing the arm, which moves the throttle cable toward the engine. This “Slows” the engine down, at which point the arm is completely controlled by the servo system, enabling control over the speed.