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Quick Rejex question.......

WiskyDan

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....sorry for another one of these but it should be quick.

So, my boat is dry-stacked so working on it is a bit of a challenge unless I do it on the water. The place that I have it does allow me some latitude but you're not supposed to really "work" on it because they have to get it out of the stack and put it outside on a bunk. My hull has some light oxidation and water marks so I want to get it cleaned up and they will allow me to apply wax but asking if I can bring an orbital polisher to remove the oxidation is going to be a stretch - plus I'm not sure I want to tackle that in their lot.

So, they said they could acid wash the hull for me and then put it on a bunk for me to finish it off as long as it's not sitting out their for days. This is my plan but I'm not sure if I have the steps correct - even after reading the other Rejex threads:

#1- Nice service guy at marina acid washes hull and places it on outdoor bunk where it's shaded in the morning.
#2- Grumpy Yamaha owner applies a wax-less polish to hull (Mequiars M4516) while shaded and under 85 degrees.
#3- Grumpy Yamaha owner applies Rejex while shaded and under 85 degrees - lets it cure for 12 hours, more likely a day or two.

My big question is do I have to use a polish in between steps #1 and #3 or can I just apply Rejex after the acid wash? Is an acid wash enough to get the hull ready for polish and/or Rejex?

I'm hoping to avoid step #2 as that will involve the orbital polisher but if that's what I need to do then I'll grovel a bit and see if they give in.
 
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WiskyDan

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Dug deeper at the Rejex site and found an article that states that you have to polish first as Rejex is a sealer. Sorry for adding another Rejex thread!! :facepalm:
 

Dave burke

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Sucks for you unfortunately. But thanks for the info.
 

WiskyDan

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So I’m getting the hull acid washed next week and need to find a good polish to apply before Rejex. I think that I’m down to either Meguiar M4516 or Star Brite Premium Marine Polish.

Feedback from anyone thats used these products would be appreciated and if there are other polishes that I should consider I’d love to hear about them.
 

Elliott

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You could just use an all-in-one polish wax like Griot's One Step, and then you could skip the Rejex step and cure time altogether. :winkingthumbsup"

This is Griot's One Step after one year of salt water use:
 

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WiskyDan

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Star Brite makes a marine polish with and without PTEF. Since PTEF and Rejex are both polymers can you stack them or am I better off with the non-PTEF Star Brite if I decide to go with their product?
 

WiskyDan

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@Elliott: Wow, that looks great!!

Since l will be applying whatever I decide to put on the hull while it’s on a bunk in the marina yard, maybe doing an all-in-one is a better short term choice. At the conclusion of the season I could bring the boat home and have more time to do exactly what I want to do with polish/Rejex before it goes into storage.
 

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Since when is 1 year short term - 😄.

This is what Griot's One Step looks like when just applied:

FSH 190 after polish wax.jpg
 

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I meant no offense........ :) Did you apply by hand? Is it removed by hand or with a buffer?

I will need something that is easy to work with, goes on and comes off without too much hassle, and can be used in partial sun. My plan is to start very early in the morning, before it gets hot and the sun climbs over the side of the building that is providing shade, but if this takes longer then I want to be safe.
 

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None taken. The 1 year old wax was applied with a Griot's 6 inch RO Buffer using a medium pad (Orange Griot's pad); it took about 2.5 hours start to finish including setup and tear down. The new was applied with a Flex 3401 using a Griot's Orange pad; it took about 2 hours total time. You will want to use a buffer to obtain the available level of polish/cleaning the One Step can provide, and you will use much less product with better longevity.

The Griot's One Step wipes off by hand very easily with almost no dust; the One Step cures in about 15 minutes. I believe I wiped off the entire hull using two Griot's Wax Removal PMF microfiber towels (about the size of a potholder). I typically start early in the morning with boat in the wash rack, and I do the side that will see the sun first. Of course, the boat is already washed and dry from its last outing.

FWIW, I wax the interior (console, T-top tubes, windshield and inside vertical surfaces) with Griot's Poly Wax (synthetic wax/sealant - same as One Step without the polish) by hand.
 

WiskyDan

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OK, so I didn't take anyone's advice and went a different direction........

I bought the following:
  • A cordless Riyobi 10" random orbital polisher - I got a good deal on a Riyobi 18v battery starter kit a couple weeks ago when I bought a cordless inflator/deflator for my towable so this worked out well.
  • An electric 6" random orbital polisher from Harbor Freight which was on sale for $14.
  • Two bottles of Star Brite Premium Cleaner Wax.
I had the dry stack place where I keep it clean the hull on Friday and I arrived a little before 6:00am Saturday morning to get to work. I used the 6" polisher to apply, the 10" polisher to buff/remove, and a microfiber towel to remove any residue that the 10" didn't remove after it loaded up a bit.

I did above and below the waterline (a bit around the anchor storage compartment where I could reach) and finished up at about 9:30am as the sun was climbing. This coming weekend I will go back and do the interior to finish it off. I was pretty pleased with the way that my first wax job turned out but the port side looks better than the starboard side. I wanted to get something on the boat quickly and then when I pull it out of the water in September I will bring it home before it goes into storage which will give me a bit more time to do a more thorough job.
 

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So I’m getting the hull acid washed next week and need to find a good polish to apply before Rejex. I think that I’m down to either Meguiar M4516 or Star Brite Premium Marine Polish.

Feedback from anyone thats used these products would be appreciated and if there are other polishes that I should consider I’d love to hear about them.
Rejex goes on before polish. Qualifier. If the said polish has any wax. Rejex is a base layer and quite honestly the only layer I use.
 

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If you are pleased with your results, that is all that matters.
 

hapyfishrmn

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I recently washed my boat with Dawn to strip whatever was on the boat. I had many waterspots. Would using Boat Bling Hot Sauce before I apply Rejex be an issue?

Do I apply Rejex straight after the cleaning? I don't want to lock in the waterspots.
 

HangOutdoors

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What I did was use dawn dish soap first. Then I went and got a car wash from the auto store that was spot free. It worked great and there were no water spots. Then I used rejex.
 

drewkaree

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I recently washed my boat with Dawn to strip whatever was on the boat. I had many waterspots. Would using Boat Bling Hot Sauce before I apply Rejex be an issue?

Do I apply Rejex straight after the cleaning? I don't want to lock in the waterspots.
Rejex should be your first layer when you've finished any and all cleaning and/or removal of old products. You CAN apply it over anything else, HOWEVER, the bottle itself states that you will experience lesser performance from Rejex, because you are applying it over something else, and when that something else wears and comes off, the Rejex will be removed along with it. For best performance, apply your Rejex to a clean unadulterated surface, and anything else you wish to apply, put it OVER the Rejex.

I'm no pro detailer, but I have had good luck with the following: wash it with Dawn at a ratio of about one ounce per gallon of water. This should strip most everything off the finish of your boat, such as mold releases, old wax or sealant (note the "OLD" part of that), or other contaminants. Clay the surface (or use synthetic clays, I'm considering going back to actual clay when my synthetic clay is shot), ensure you are using a good clay lubricant. Wipe off and clean off the residue/debris as you go. Wash the boat a second time with a nice vehicle wash soap (Chemical Guys makes nice stuff, Mequiars, whoever and whatever you can access). The second wash is to help ensure you clean off the residue from everything you've done so far. Dry everything nicely. Use two towels. When you've wiped the majority of water off, and there's that dampness left from what wasn't absorbed by the towel, go over it with the less-wet towel, and finish getting all the water off with the drier towel. Apply a thin coat of Rejex. My experience was anything that looked like a white smudge or thicker, was WAY too thick, and it will take double the effort to remove. When you're done, go have yourself a beer, and set a timer for half an hour. When the timer goes off, take two towels, one for each side, and it should be easy to wipe off the hazed over Rejex. It should be as easy to wipe off as it was to dry your boat. If not, it was applied too thick in that area. Note this and file it away for next time, and fix it by not doing that again! It should take as much time to remove the Rejex as it did to dry your boat off.

Whatever you want to add after that is up to you. It's not necessary at all, unless you feel you need some level of depth to the shine, or you think you're going to extend the performance of the Rejex, or whatever reason you tell yourself that there's more work that HAS to be done. My first application of Rejex on my boat lasted a year and a month, and the only reason it didn't last longer is that I chose to use a stripping wash to remove it (a Dawn wash and Adam's Stripping Wash was required).

Whenever I pull the boat out, I do wipe it down with Hot Sauce, but that's all I did to my boat. If you live elsewhere, such as Florida/Texas/someplace hotter than Wisconsin, you may experience shorter protection, but I'm dang happy with Rejex. If you wet slip, Rejex helped with removal of the garbage ring that my lake deposits on my boat when I leave it in for a week. I think we have inbred rednecks bathing in our lake, dirtying up the water :D

For the OP and anyone else reading this, your steps were out of order. For your original post, you should have been doing Step #1, Step #3, and then if you REALLY felt you HAD to, Step #2 would be your last step.
 

drewkaree

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I added a cheap Black & Decker polisher for the next time I do this. I haven't buffed this thing out, which I knew I should have done, but I wasn't gonna waste the time when I was considering removing the stickers from my boat from the beginning. I decided to leave the extra work until I decided if I was removing them, and when I finally made that decision, I forgot my Porter Cable at home. I ordered the cheap buffer because I think I will be able to deal with it at the lake house, and if not, I can always bring the Porter Cable another day. At the very least, I now own an expensive Rejex applicator!
 
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