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Recently purchased boat back at the dealer for overheating alarm.

Hilario Perez

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
440
Reaction score
322
Points
167
Location
Kissimmee FL.
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2011
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
24
Back to where I purchased my pre-owned boat (sx240 2011 with only 93 hrs) at Boaters exchange in Rockledge. 3 months after buying the boat I had to take it back today to check the starboard engine which was throwing off an alarm which said “engine over temperature”. I only ran it for and hour and the alarm went off 2x. Contacted the dealer and he told me to disconnect the battery after checking the pee hole to make sure nothing was clogged. After speaking to the mechanic Jerry (service manager) telling him that I ran it at 50 mph for an hour he said that those motors will reject that velocity after being run at that speed for that amount of time. I think this is unheard of. We had friends running with us at the same speed with no issues and their boat was older than mine. The dealer said that they would pay for the labor for the diagnostic ($119) but would let me know if there was something wrong and what the cost would be which would come out of my pocket. I don’t think this is fair. Does anyone have any thoughts as to the best way to handle this situation? I feel that after having it for such a short amount Of time (only ran it 4 times) the cost should be on them. We’re looking to do a Bimini trip and don’t want to run into any issues on the way. Icing on the cake I tried to get the dealership to throw in the cover when I first purchased the boat and they wanted to sell to me for $600 for a used cover. That owner was not willing to negotiation for that cover. What a way to treat a customer. Their Mission Statement says “maximize customer satisfaction and minimize come backs. Fixed right the first time.” Let’s hope they stand by their word. I will keep you updated as to the result of this. FYI Greg is an awesome salesman. He’s helped us the whole way through. Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated. I love my boat and I love this site. I love meeting and sharing with all of you. Looking forward to some input. 55E006E5-F5E6-4748-90AB-63CF7C7C66C8.jpeg
Back at the dealership
 
I know it stinks but I would say you are lucky they are not charging you for the diagnostics. In most cases when you buy a boat or car used there is no warranty implied unless it is in writing. It is one of the risks you take when you buy something 7 years old, even if they go through everything there in no telling when something will let go.

As far as the boat cover goes it seems a little strange. Maybe you got such a good price for the boat he thought he would make some of it up on the cover. Maybe they are the type of place that takes a short term view of squeezing every penny out of you without regard for future business?

Anyway good luck I hope it’s a quick and cheap fix.
 
Back to where I purchased my pre-owned boat (sx240 2011 with only 93 hrs) at Boaters exchange in Rockledge. 3 months after buying the boat I had to take it back today to check the starboard engine which was throwing off an alarm which said “engine over temperature”. I only ran it for and hour and the alarm went off 2x. Contacted the dealer and he told me to disconnect the battery after checking the pee hole to make sure nothing was clogged. After speaking to the mechanic Jerry (service manager) telling him that I ran it at 50 mph for an hour he said that those motors will reject that velocity after being run at that speed for that amount of time. I think this is unheard of.
2016 I ran my AR190, same 1.8L motor you have, for 2 hours straight at wide open throttle. I literally didn't touch the throttle for 2 hours. She didn't Even flinch . No codes, nothing. That was on our trip to Bimini.
 
Back to where I purchased my pre-owned boat (sx240 2011 with only 93 hrs) at Boaters exchange in Rockledge. 3 months after buying the boat I had to take it back today to check the starboard engine which was throwing off an alarm which said “engine over temperature”. I only ran it for and hour and the alarm went off 2x. Contacted the dealer and he told me to disconnect the battery after checking the pee hole to make sure nothing was clogged. After speaking to the mechanic Jerry (service manager) telling him that I ran it at 50 mph for an hour he said that those motors will reject that velocity after being run at that speed for that amount of time. I think this is unheard of. We had friends running with us at the same speed with no issues and their boat was older than mine. The dealer said that they would pay for the labor for the diagnostic ($119) but would let me know if there was something wrong and what the cost would be which would come out of my pocket. I don’t think this is fair. Does anyone have any thoughts as to the best way to handle this situation? I feel that after having it for such a short amount Of time (only ran it 4 times) the cost should be on them. We’re looking to do a Bimini trip and don’t want to run into any issues on the way. Icing on the cake I tried to get the dealership to throw in the cover when I first purchased the boat and they wanted to sell to me for $600 for a used cover. That owner was not willing to negotiation for that cover. What a way to treat a customer. Their Mission Statement says “maximize customer satisfaction and minimize come backs. Fixed right the first time.” Let’s hope they stand by their word. I will keep you updated as to the result of this. FYI Greg is an awesome salesman. He’s helped us the whole way through. Any suggestions or advice is greatly appreciated. I love my boat and I love this site. I love meeting and sharing with all of you. Looking forward to some input. View attachment 68810
Back at the dealership
These engines are designed for continuous duty, designed to run WOT, all day long. The supercharged ones can experience so called "heat soak" which will slow them down a bit (no throwing any codes), the N/As (like yours) are impervious to it.

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2016 I ran my AR190, same 1.8L motor you have, for 2 hours straight at wide open throttle. I literally didn't touch the throttle for 2 hours. She didn't Even flinch . No codes, nothing. That was on our trip to Bimini.

was this the run where people had to crawl on the bow to get you on plane?
 
Sounds like bs too me, did you check that the intake screen on the pump for blockage? Maybe it’s just a bad sensor. I’m hoping it’s something simple and inexpensive to fix.
 
@Hilario Perez I purchased my boat in a private sale a couple of years ago. On the first run, my boat flashed an overheat alarm. And after lurking on this site, before I joined, I learned what to look for. It ended up being mud dobber wasps plugging the "pisser" holes on the starboard side of the boat. I ran a piece of large grass trimmer string in the water outlets to clean them out. Now I look every time we go out to make sure water is exiting there. This forum saved me a trip to the dealer/ repair shop and my YDS has shown no codes since. My wife and I have had many trouble free hours on the Yamaha since. 50 mph? Good for you my max is only 48.8 mph..
 
If you don't have a written warranty, I feel that the dealer is actually being pretty fair in diagnosing the problem for free. Especially if it ends up being something simple you can go ahead and do yourself.
 
I did check all that and disconnected the battery all that good stuff and it still came on but I don't want to take no chances let them check it out they said it will do a courtesy check and a diagnostic which will help probably something like that just let's hope so because the boat is in great condition and let's see from there I'll keep you posted.
 
From your other thread, did you ever check the strainer? When you disconnected the battery was this on the water and the same day it threw the overheat warning or are you saying it keeps throwing the warning now?

Did you try hooking it up to water hose at your house (with good pressure) and run it while flushing to see if the overheat would happen? On my single engine it requires about 60 PSI of water from the hose to get good/proper flow of the cooling system and should give you a decent stream out the pisser on the hose. A twin engine may require more water pressure but I'm not familiar with them to say for certain. Get a water pressure gauge for your hose connection and test what your house is putting out and adjust the water pressure regulator as needed. If you have good water pressure and it didn't throw a warning then I'd say you likely sucked or partially blocked something over the strainer and this is nothing. If you have good water pressure and it still throws the warning then something may be up with the cooling passages.
 
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My experience with the Yamaha heat sensors is they go bad and when that happens the alarm will go off whenever it wants to even when the engine is dead cold.
I had one on a supercharged 1800 engine that drove me up a wall, finally I had it replaced and no more issues so what I did was take heat readings off the engine when the alarm went off using a non contact thermometer just to be sure it was a sensor. I believe there is a history of the sensors going bad so you may want to do a search on the internet and check on that for reference.
 
I agree with the other these can run wide open for a long time. @1948Isaac and I ran over 80 miles at wide open throttle on the Bahama Bank coming back from Chub Cay to Bimini in 2016 no issues well other then the next day the starter falling off one of the motors that was probably caused from that beating but that's another issue.
 
after 10 years of reading about Yamaha jet boats about the one thing I learned is most dealers/mechanics aren't worth much more than getting you out the door.

Was this a Yamaha dealership? even worse if it was, I would expect an independent mechanic to give you a line of crap like "it wasn't meant to run that much". that rates right up there with "all jet boats pull to the left" and "it just takes a while to get up on plane"

I have more faith in a good PWC shop than a boat dealer as they only deal with jets.

Have you seen Buck's video in FAQ section about "how your cooling water flows"? it's for the MR1 but the same principle applies.

I would agree with Jeff, it's probably a sensor and your better off with a YDS and a hand held laser thermometer trying to diagnose if you have a problem than waiting for the dealership who already pushed you off with a lame excuse, can you really trust them, whatever they tell you now???
 
From your other thread, did you ever check the strainer? When you disconnected the battery was this on the water and the same day it threw the overheat warning or are you saying it keeps throwing the warning now?

Did you try hooking it up to water (with good pressure) run it while flushing to see if the overheat would happen? On my single engine it requires about 60 PSI of water from the hose to get good/proper flow of the cooling system and should give you a decent stream out the pisser on the hose. A twin engine may require more water pressure but I'm not familiar with them to say for certain. Get a water pressure gauge for your hose connection and test what your house is putting out and adjust the water pressure regulator as needed. If you have good water pressure and it didn't throw a warning then I'd say you likely sucked or partially blocked something over the strainer and this is nothing. If you have good water pressure and it still throws the warning then something may be up with the cooling passages.
 
From your other thread, did you ever check the strainer? When you disconnected the battery was this on the water and the same day it threw the overheat warning or are you saying it keeps throwing the warning now?

Did you try hooking it up to water (with good pressure) run it while flushing to see if the overheat would happen? On my single engine it requires about 60 PSI of water from the hose to get good/proper flow of the cooling system and should give you a decent stream out the pisser on the hose. A twin engine may require more water pressure but I'm not familiar with them to say for certain. Get a water pressure gauge for your hose connection and test what your house is putting out and adjust the water pressure regulator as needed. If you have good water pressure and it didn't throw a warning then I'd say you likely sucked or partially blocked something over the strainer and this is nothing. If you have good water pressure and it still throws the warning then something may be up with the cooling passages.
I was on the water when this happened I did check the strainer the pistol was pissing fine after 30 minutes everything cooled off went then it came out again when I got home next day I clean the bolt watch the bolts I was in freshwater and put the holes on each motor clean everything out let it ride I have no pressure in my water hose and did not text anymore while I was on the water I called the dealer and told him what was happening he told me to disconnect the battery which I did check all the pressure lines and put it back to normal and bring it in so that's what I'm doing now soon to find out what's going on.
 
mine was the same... salt water boat and the temp sensor/thermostats in both engines needed to be replaced. no issues since then ~100hrs
 
The dealer call me back today they did a water test with diagnostic at the shop nothing came on they going to do a water test tomorrow actually in the ocean or the lake to see if any alarms come up let's see what they find hopefully something simple like you say thermostat or sensor.
 
If it keeps doing it for no obvious reason having an intermittent alarm problem it is most likely the sensor, I did the thermostat test and checked all the hoses but when it started going off within 10 seconds of starting the engine for the first time of the day I had little doubt it was the heat sensor .
 
x3 on the thermostat as something the service department needs to check. My 2013 242LS had to have two replaced under the YES warranty in 2016.

Also during the overheat event an exhaust baffle (a black plastic piece) melted and also was replaced under YES.
 
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