Replacing Yamaha SX230 Scupper Valve

[Bruce]

@Rana and I replaced the scupper valve on our SX230 last night. This was the procedure that we used. I would appreciate critique from others who have done this.

1. Open the clean out plug lid.
2. Remove the twist out access port covers between the clean out plugs.
3. Release the clamps securing the large clean out plug tubes to the bilge cover.
4. Remove the screws holding the bilge cover down.
5. Lift the bilge cover slightly until it is free from the clean out plug tubes. The bilge cover may be sealed with caulk, mine was not.
6. Release the clamp securing the drain hose from the bottom of the bilge cover. Remove the clamp and set it aside or it will likely end up in the bilge.

The scupper valve is located in the bottom of the bilge directly below the starboard water box (round aluminum thing). I choose to reposition the water box rather than try to work around it.



7. Go to the engine compartment and loosen the clamp that secures the starboard water box to the engine.
8. Loosen the clamp and remove the hose coming out of the water box.
9. Remove the two rubber straps that secure the water box.
10. Pull the water box toward the stern and it will be free.
11. I was unable to remove the water box from the bilge so I tied it out of the way on the port side with a strap to the cleat on that side.



12. Loosen the clamp holding the scupper valve hose to the factory scupper valve. The hose is not very flexible and is held at several points. I chose to leave it in place allowing the factory scupper to slip out and the new scupper to slip into it.
13. I used @Lspeedss's scupper valve wrench to break loose the factory scupper valve nut then I removed it with my hand. This is a slow tedious process. Wearing long sleeves may help you avoid the feeling of fiberglass in your arm for the next few days.
14. Once the nut was off of the scupper I placed a piece of cardboard on the bottom edge of the transom to protect the gelcoat then used a pair of pliers and flat head screw driver to pull the factory scupper out of the boat.

As I finished removing the factory scupper the outer ring broke off. This may have been caused by my pulling on it but I suspect that over tightening of the nut at the factory played a role as well.





15. I used a razor blade to clean the old caulk off of the outside of the transom. I use my fingers and a paint scraper to clean up the inside.
16. Test fit your new scupper valve. I had to grind on the two sides to allow it to seat fully.
17. I put a heavy ring of Life Caulk around the inside of the new scupper valve before installing it. I also placed a lighter ring around the inside of the nut.



18. @Rana inserted the new scupper into the transom while I started the nut and attached the hose. She then held it in place while I tightened the nut. @Lspeedss points out that you want to have a bead of sealant between the hose and the scupper to avoid any leakage into the bilge (Thanks).
19. Wait a sufficient time for the caulk to dry. I am waiting 48 hours. Then fill the bilge with water to above the scupper valve and check for any leaks.
20. Reconnect the water box hose to the engine and tighten the clamp.
21. Reinstall the water box to its original location and strap it down.
22. Reconnect the hose the top of the water box and tighten the clamp.
23. Run a bead of easily removable caulk where the bilge cover will be reinstalled.
24. Reconnect the drain hose to the bottom of the bilge hose and tighten the clamp.
25. Slide the bilge cover into the clean out plug tubes.
26. Reinstall the bilge cover screws.
27. Tighten the clamps that secure the clean out plug tubes to the bilge cover.
28. Reinstall the access port covers into the bilge cover.
29. Step back and admire your shiny new scupper valve.

 

[Scottintexas]

great write up, you may want to mention the new scupper mfg and part # and about having to grind the sides of the new scupper to fit

 

[Bruce]

My replacement Standard Stainless Steel 1 1/2 Inch Scupper came from Great Lakes Skipper. Currently the photos show the brand as Premier. I do not believe that mine was branded at all. I ordered it over a year ago. It was around $55.

I did need to grind it on two sides to get it to seat fully.

 

[Jim Robeson]

Nice write up. And again, how do you know that your scupper valve is going bad or is bad??

 

[jawsf16]

@Jim Robeson You don't truly know its bad until it is a hole in your boat taking on large amounts of water. I highly recommend making this simple change for the safety of you and your crew. Very easy to do. I did my 08 sx210 and the plastic one was fine, but too many of them have sheared off during removal like Bruce's did.

 

[Jim Robeson]

@jawsf16 ... sounds like this is something I will be doing then. Thanks for the advice!

 

[loudog1001]

How can I get on the scupper wrench list?

 

[Bruce]

@loudog1001, please sign up for the wrench at Holder of the Scupper Wrenches.

Also @maboat found a great deal on stainless steel scuppers at Part# PRE56553 Thread length 3" Overall length 5-1/4" for $36 plus $10 shipping.

 

[Lspeedss]

@Bruce Great write up.. I would advise against putting any RTV on the nut. It can make it difficult to finger on. Better to run a bead on the inside wall of the transom that will set nice on the tightening. Also some real important events were not mentioned in your instructions. In between every movement there needs to be room for plenty of profanity. Not your run of the mill profanity..no no.. Make room for huge amounts the most profane language you can muster. You know the stuff. The kind of profanity that would get you a mouthful of Lifebouy if your mother heard you. The kind of language that would leave your kids speechless if the heard it. The kind of cussing that will stop your wife in her tracks where she can do nothing but smile at you and rub your back.. yeah, make room for some of that.. Oh, I almost forgot. You will be sore for a couple of days.. Great write up..lol

 

[Lspeedss]

Oh yeah. On 18 need to run RTV on the neck of the scupper before inserting drain hose back on. @Bruce .

 

[Bruce]

@Lspeedss, why RTV? Is caulk sufficient?

By the time I got that far my entire scupper assembly was coated in caulk which I believe will take care of it I am planning to place the water hose near the scupper intake and test it for leakage.

 

[Lspeedss]

@Bruce RTV is what I used..Im sure caulk ,life caulk, 4200 or whatever people place their confidence in is fine. Plus it was shorter to type RTV than silicone in using my Droid. Lol

 

[redthumper9]

Nice job. I had to do mine on my 2007 sx210 when I had it. Boat would take on water during the day to the point where the bilge would pump a couple of pints every few minutes. Checked everything, even the scupper and couldnt find anything. Finally examined closer and the scupper was split right around where the rubber flap was. Changed it and bilge pump never came on again.

 

[Zarrella]

Nice write up! I guess I should do mine too.

 

[Zeus2013]

The things you earn on this forum that you would never think about as a new boater...Thanks to all...added to the checklist.

 

[Scottintexas]

@Zeus2013 you should be ok, this is only a problem with scuppers below the waterline.

 

[ToddW850]

Great write up with pictures @Bruce . Thanks

 

[KXCam22]

Nice writeup. I also made my own wrench out of a scrap of aluminum. Took maybe 5 minutes - it is not pretty. You should really use 4200 or 5300 3M marine caulk. RTV is not rated to be used below water line. To determine what shape the stock scupper is in try putting a trouble light inside next to it. You will see bright light thru the thin walls of the scupper - very confidence inspiring. The give it a wiggle. It will most likely break off in your hand - even more confidence inspiring. Obviously you should have a SS one on hand before you do these tests as you will not want to get in the boat until you have replaced it. Cam.

 

[Chillypilot]

Thanks for the great write up. I have my new scupper, just waiting to get my boat out of winter storage to install.

 

[Gym]

By the time I got that far my entire scupper assembly was coated in caulk which I believe will take care of it:eek: I am planning to place the water hose near the scupper intake and test it for leakage.

The other test you want to perform @Bruce is to run about 10 gallons of water into the engine compartment with the boat on the trailer and the trailer jack cranked way up so the bow is high. This will cause the water to flow into the lower bilge. Make sure the bilge pump is off. Then observe the area around the scupper flange at the stern of the boat. If you made a good seal around the scupper flange and around the scupper nut inside you will see no leaks. I would let this water sit for an hour or two (2-3 beers) to make sure it's tight. I found a leak between my scupper valve and my white corrugated hose doing this. I had to double clamp my hose to the scupper valve to mitigate it.