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Replacing Yamaha SX230 Scupper Valve

@Gym, thanks for the suggestion. I filled the lower bilge up to 2" or 3" above the scupper valve then let it sit for two days. The only leakage was a very slow drip from the drain plug which I will now be replacing. I had the bilge cover off so I filled directly into the lower bilge instead of running the water through the engine compartment. The scupper hose connection was under water and I checked several times to make sure that water was not making its way from the bilge into the scupper.
 
@Gym, thanks for the suggestion. I filled the lower bilge up to 2" or 3" above the scupper valve then let it sit for two days. The only leakage was a very slow drip from the drain plug which I will now be replacing. I had the bilge cover off so I filled directly into the lower bilge instead of running the water through the engine compartment. The scupper hose connection was under water and I checked several times to make sure that water was not making its way from the bilge into the scupper.
Perfect. I'm still curious about your drain plug. Weather you found it was the plug threads, the back plate or the three screws holding the back plate to the hull. Did you try the Teflon on the plug threads to see if that stops it?
 
I believe that tightening the drain plug more, way beyond normal described usage stopped the dripping.

A new screw in plug would likely have solved the problem.

The leaking was through the plug threads not the screws.

I ordered a replacement stainless steel retained drain plug similar to what the 240s have and will document the install.
 
Thats the same place mine leaked. Some sealant and 2 clamps. It is a worthy test as the water comes out from inside the scupper if you have a hose leak. Cam.
 
I have my new SS scupper in hand and ready to do the install on my SX230 in the coming days. What is the best way to grind/trim down the sides of the SS scupper in order to make it fit?

Thanks.
Brian
 
I used a handheld grinder with a metal cutoff wheel. Cut/grind small amounts, test fit, and repeat until you get it right.
 
I have my new SS scupper in hand and ready to do the install on my SX230 in the coming days. What is the best way to grind/trim down the sides of the SS scupper in order to make it fit?

Thanks.
Brian

I did a test fit to see how it would fit. Then I took it outside and used an angle grinder with a grinding wheel to grind a little off the sides. Then I repeated the test fit to see where more needed to come off. I continued this process until it seated. A bench grinder would be even easier.
 
Thanks for the information gentlemen....wish me luck!!
 
I also used a bench grinder on the 3 & 9 o'clock positions of the scupper flange. @txav8r correctly advised that the 2 & 10 o'clock positions may have been a little better positions to grind. If you dry fit first you can best determine where. After grinding there will probably be a little lip, as a result of grinding, on the back side of the flange you need to hand file that off just to get a flush fit. Wear long sleeves and gloves.
 
I don't know if I mentioned this before, if I didn't, I wished I had. But they make "flap wheel" grinding discs. Instead of a hard surface grinding stone, these flap wheel discs have multiple layers of zirconium impregnated flaps, or sand paper if you will. The are heavy and last a long time considering the material you are removing. When I make anchors, I sand and polish the work smooth and to a shine with these. You can't imagine the finish they result in vs grinding multiple stages of grit and then having to polish. These do it in one step. I have used various grits and find that the 80 grit makes just as clean a polish on carbon steel as 120 grit does, but 80 grit discs last longer. I also find that the quality of the discs at Home Depot or Lowes is not good, they have fewer flaps per disc, and they run smooth faster. I find my discs at either a welding supply or even my nut and bolt supplier has them. They look like this.
fd-thumb.JPG
But after 40 anchors, I find out now that ceramic coated flap wheel discs is better for use on alloys such as stainless steel, as it is reported to bring it to a better polished finish. I don't find these at my welding supply, you may have to order these discs if you were going to use them. They have a red color to them.
flap-discs-redfury.jpg
But the zirconium discs work fine on stainless, they just don't last as long. But you could do 30 scuppers on on disc, so no worries on that. Generally, these discs run me around $8.50 each and you have a choice of 40, 60, 80, and 120 grit. I have stepped my work from 40 to 120 and not found that really beneficial. Working with steel, especially stainless, is not like wood. The surface your after in a polished finish comes from the high speed surfacing, not from the grit in normal steel, but stepping the grit on stainless will result in a more polished surface. Since the scupper comes polished, a couple of discs, such as 80 and 120 may result in a matching polished finish.

And as @Gym says, wear non flammable material and gloves...if you were doing this at dusk, you would see the steel glowing cherry red! I have had a third degree burn from this, so do be careful. If your removing metal, it is getting towards the melting point! Be sure you know the size of your angle grinder, the discs come in different arbor hole sizes, a 5/8" arbor is common on a home owner size grinder. Most grinders however are 7/8" arbor. So most discs sold are 7/8" size. But the home centers carry plenty of 5/8'" discs, that are cheap and won't cut as well or last as long. How long they last isn't as important for this project, because it will make it through the project just fine. But they don't cut and well, the bounce more, and they don't polish as well. So if you can avoid that it is better. You may use your grinder more often for other projects if you knew you could get these abrasives, that make your life MUCH easier than a solid stone type wheel or flat surfaced abrasive. Also be aware some of these discs come threaded, and others don't. Know what you have and what you need. Hope this helps!
 
@Bruce, followed your example to the letter and got my scupper replaced today, I used a bench belt sander to grind the sides to make it fit. 2.8 inches wide at about the 9-10 and 2-3 o'clock positions is the target width.

I had to completely remove the waterbox though because I had to replace ever single hose clamp under the clean-out tray. https://jetboaters.net/threads/almost-sunk-my-boat-happy-to-be-here.2087/

I have seen one other person use a different scupper hose, so I also attempted to replace the scupper hose with this in 1.5 in ID that I bought from the local Marine Trading Post at 3.45 per foot:
http://www.westmarine.com/shields-r...reinforced-clear-pvc-tubing--P011_333_001_014
The outside diameter was too big... it would fit through the hole in the engine compartment (after coating it with dish washing liquid) but was not even close to fitting through the second wood bulkhead, and I think the bend at the end might have put a little to much strain in the scupper. I had to reuse the original hose... I only had to cut off an inch, and coated the barbs with 4200. I'll hold on to it for now and if the original hose starts to give me problems I will replace it then.

Thanks for the guide!

Ed
 
@cwoav8r , How did you get the water boxes out?

I have a theory that if you removed both from their mounts you would be able to move one to the side then remove the second.

The clamps in my bilge area were in good shape.
 
It's like trying to solve a puzzle... I only pulled the starboard side, as far back as possible to clear the forward pipe from the engine compartment hole, then through the clean out tray on the port side. Two things (that I did not do) would make it a little bit easier: Remove the six inch hose from the port side clean out port, and loosen the aft clamp on the exhaust hose in the engine compartment rather than the front as I did. It took me about 7 or 8 minutes to get it out and about the same to get it back in and the connecting hose still connected to it wasn't helping. I don't even want to think about the port side water box... after today, paying someone else to do this work would have been cheaper than the upcoming Dr. bills for my poor back. I'm not young any more... but I am stubborn.
 
Installed the scupper from Replacement Boat Parts this past weekend, with no issues. Great deal!

I didn't have a scupper wrench, and all the hardware stores were closed, but I DID have some angle iron and a MIG welder in my garage!

IMG_20140615_11590620Medium.jpg


:p
 
Cool. A thing of beauty.
 
I love the ingenuity of a jetboater!
 
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