@Rana and I replaced the scupper valve on our SX230 last night. This was the procedure that we used. I would appreciate critique from others who have done this.
1. Open the clean out plug lid.
2. Remove the twist out access port covers between the clean out plugs.
3. Release the clamps securing the large clean out plug tubes to the bilge cover.
4. Remove the screws holding the bilge cover down.
5. Lift the bilge cover slightly until it is free from the clean out plug tubes. The bilge cover may be sealed with caulk, mine was not.
6. Release the clamp securing the drain hose from the bottom of the bilge cover. Remove the clamp and set it aside or it will likely end up in the bilge.
The scupper valve is located in the bottom of the bilge directly below the starboard water box (round aluminum thing). I choose to reposition the water box rather than try to work around it.
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7. Go to the engine compartment and loosen the clamp that secures the starboard water box to the engine.
8. Loosen the clamp and remove the hose coming out of the water box.
9. Remove the two rubber straps that secure the water box.
10. Pull the water box toward the stern and it will be free.
11. I was unable to remove the water box from the bilge so I tied it out of the way on the port side with a strap to the cleat on that side.
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12. Loosen the clamp holding the scupper valve hose to the factory scupper valve. The hose is not very flexible and is held at several points. I chose to leave it in place allowing the factory scupper to slip out and the new scupper to slip into it.
13. I used
@Lspeedss's scupper valve wrench to break loose the factory scupper valve nut then I removed it with my hand. This is a slow tedious process. Wearing long sleeves may help you avoid the feeling of fiberglass in your arm for the next few days.
14. Once the nut was off of the scupper I placed a piece of cardboard on the bottom edge of the transom to protect the gelcoat then used a pair of pliers and flat head screw driver to pull the factory scupper out of the boat.
As I finished removing the factory scupper the outer ring broke off. This may have been caused by my pulling on it but I suspect that over tightening of the nut at the factory played a role as well.
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15. I used a razor blade to clean the old caulk off of the outside of the transom. I use my fingers and a paint scraper to clean up the inside.
16. Test fit your new scupper valve. I had to grind on the two sides to allow it to seat fully.
17. I put a heavy ring of
Life Caulk around the inside of the new scupper valve before installing it. I also placed a lighter ring around the inside of the nut.
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18.
@Rana inserted the new scupper into the transom while I started the nut and attached the hose. She then held it in place while I tightened the nut.
@Lspeedss points out that you want to have a bead of sealant between the hose and the scupper to avoid any leakage into the bilge (Thanks).
19. Wait a sufficient time for the caulk to dry. I am waiting 48 hours. Then fill the bilge with water to above the scupper valve and check for any leaks.
20. Reconnect the water box hose to the engine and tighten the clamp.
21. Reinstall the water box to its original location and strap it down.
22. Reconnect the hose the top of the water box and tighten the clamp.
23. Run a bead of easily removable caulk where the bilge cover will be reinstalled.
24. Reconnect the drain hose to the bottom of the bilge hose and tighten the clamp.
25. Slide the bilge cover into the clean out plug tubes.
26. Reinstall the bilge cover screws.
27. Tighten the clamps that secure the clean out plug tubes to the bilge cover.
28. Reinstall the access port covers into the bilge cover.
29. Step back and admire your shiny new scupper valve.
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