Replacing Yamaha SX230 Scupper Valve

[MutherTucker]

this post is awesome. thanks so much!

 

[aflax24]

Mine cracked off...so removal was easy. With my giant hands and arms I just couldn't get a wrench in there so I 5200'd the smack out of it and cranked it down with. My hand. I did get 4200 on the hose but there was 5200 throughout the threads so it was tough to turn in the first place. No movement when done. I packed around the nut with 5200...I might try to go back on tonight and get the water box out to try and tighten correctly.
OPINIONS? Anyone think it will be a big deal to go back and tighten nut since I did it last night, 5200 won't even be out the tube for 24hrs...prob still pliable enough? Thoughts

 

[ToddW850]

Mine cracked off...so removal was easy. With my giant hands and arms I just couldn't get a wrench in there so I 5200'd the smack out of it and cranked it down with. My hand. I did get 4200 on the hose but there was 5200 throughout the threads so it was tough to turn in the first place. No movement when done. I packed around the nut with 5200...I might try to go back on tonight and get the water box out to try and tighten correctly.
OPINIONS? Anyone think it will be a big deal to go back and tighten nut since I did it last night, 5200 won't even be out the tube for 24hrs...prob still pliable enough? Thoughts

Personally I would feel better knowing the nut is on there tight. However, if you got it pretty "snug" and packed it with 5200, it probably isn't going to move. With the time that has already passed, I'd let the 5200 cure and go out there and see if it moves after. I'd also jack up the trailer tongue and put some water in your bilge (plug in) just to make sure it doesn't leak. Just my opinion to be on the safe side.

 

[Bruce]

@aflax24, if that 5200 has cured I doubt that you can move the nut at all. Not sure that I would feel safe without the nut being tight.

 

[aflax24]

I guess I will see what I can do tonight short of some cutting...not sure how to proceed.

 

[Bruce]

I guess I will see what I can do tonight short of some cutting...not sure how to proceed.

I am short on ideas as well. If the scupper comes loose you have a big leak below the waterline but that 5200 is not going to budge. Perhaps use a dremel inside the scupper valve to cut it off just inside the hull then start over?

 

[aflax24]

I mean it is a metal scupper I did 5200 behind the flange, Hand Tightened and 5200 over and around the nut...if the 5200 wont budge then at best I would have a drip drip leak, there is pretty much no way short of the hull breaking that would create anything big. to come loose and make a hole, the nut would have to break the 5200, then back off quite a bit. I am hoping it is not completely cured and will pull the water box tonight and see if I can really give it a crank...like I should have last night.

 

[aflax24]

Update, since the 5200 was not cured, was still pretty tacky and pliable, I was able to head home and pulled the waterbox(like I should have...) and got in there with 2 wrenches and got another couple turns out of the nut. Packed it all with 5200, put an extra hose clamp on the corrugated hose while I was there and I will call it good...I am gonna wait till Friday and do a leak test.

 

[Bruce]

@aflax24, I am glad that you were able to tighten up the nut. Although I would not recommend anyone using 5200 on a scupper. 5200 is for things that you never ever want to remove.

 

[ToddW850]

Good deal @aflax24 . That's good peace of mind.

 

[aflax24]

I NEVER WANT TO REMOVE THIS DUCKING THING AGAIN...Hopefully the stainless will last longer than I have this boat...plus...way too late now!

 

[Bryan Halsey]

Thanks for the info guys. I almost sunk my SX210 this weekend because of a cracked scupper drain. Always turn on your bildge while at the dock to check for leaks. Put it back on the trailer and water was leaking from around the drain, pushed on it slightly and it broke rite off. Crack was in the same place as Bruce's pics. Just ordered the stainless steel one noted in this forum.

 

[ToddW850]

Thanks for the info guys. I almost sunk my SX210 this weekend because of a cracked scupper drain. Always turn on your bildge while at the dock to check for leaks. Put it back on the trailer and water was leaking from around the drain, pushed on it slightly and it broke rite off. Crack was in the same place as Bruce's pics. Just ordered the stainless steel one noted in this forum.

Glad you caught it in time @Bryan Halsey! I read the thread on how to replace the scupper a couple times and looked at the pics before I switched my scupper out. There was nothing I encountered that I was not already aware of. Made it much easier.

You need to go to this thread https://jetboaters.net/threads/holder-of-the-scupper-wrenches.1333/ and get on the waiting list. The tool makes it much easier to tighten.

Also, always have your bilge on while on the water, for this exact reason. Once your bilge senses water, it will kick on.

Good Luck.

 

[YamahaForMe]

Question: the PO replaced my scupper with a stainless one. however, it does not have a check valve. I see you can buy a replacement check valve. is this something that can be done with the scupper still attached to the boat? not sure I wanna go through the trouble of taking it off.

 

[ToddW850]

Question: the PO replaced my scupper with a stainless one. however, it does not have a check valve. I see you can buy a replacement check valve. is this something that can be done with the scupper still attached to the boat? not sure I wanna go through the trouble of taking it off.

Is the valve you are referring to the one inside the scupper that you can see from the outside? If so, then yes, you can replace it without taking the scupper out. It's more like a 'flap" but goes in with a screw from the outside.

 

[YamahaForMe]

Is the valve you are referring to the one inside the scupper that you can see from the outside? If so, then yes, you can replace it without taking the scupper out. It's more like a 'flap" but goes in with a screw from the outside.

That's the one. mine didn't look like there was a boss to screw the flap into........ i'll do some further research online. thanks, at least there is a chance I wont have to take out the existing one. I assume the PO used a sealant when he installed it.

 

[ToddW850]

Here is a pic of mine @YamahaForMe . I have the Atwood Scupper.

 

[Gym]

@YamahaForMe It sounds like what you have is a stainless steel through hull fitting rather than a scupper valve. If I'm correct, this could allow water to back up into your deck drain fitting or into your bilge if your drain line comes loose or fails. In any event I would address this very soon as it sounds like you may have the wrong fitting installed.

 

[Julian]

Things I learned while doing this:

1. You have to remove the water box to have any easy way to do this. But it ain't hard
2. disconnect the scupper hose at the cockpit so you can connect the stern part outside the boat (I have photos)....not sure if everyone else did this...but I can't imagine trying to put that f'ing hose on down inside the bilge, even with the water box out of the way.
3. cover up the stern of the boat....its a messy job
4. Ideally have two people to do it....it can be done with one...but two would be so much easier and faster!

 

[MOA_Chaser]

Things I learned while doing this:

1. You have to remove the water box to have any easy way to do this. But it ain't hard
2. disconnect the scupper hose at the cockpit so you can connect the stern part outside the boat (I have photos)....not sure if everyone else did this...but I can't imagine trying to put that f'ing hose on down inside the bilge, even with the water box out of the way.
3. cover up the stern of the boat....its a messy job
4. Ideally have two people to do it....it can be done with one...but two would be so much easier and faster!

5. Wear a long sleeved shirt. Fiberglass stuck in your arms sucks!!!