RGB LED Wiring Gauge, Connections and Controller

[Wrecked Rooster]

I have 6 kicker 8's that I ran 14 awg cable for audio. 3 on each side of my AR210. Now for the RGB lights, I have a few questions:

1. What gauge wire would you recommend? I would think 18 awg would be sufficient.
   1. Was thinking I could just jump from one speaker to the next on one side (3 speakers) and do the same on the other side while having it all come together at the battery. Or I could do a home run for each speaker.
2. For connections, I was thinking waterproof wire nuts like the ones below. There would be 4 at each speaker then 4 more at the battery to tie both sides together along with the controller, then controller to switch/fuse before battery.
   1. For the switch, what are the thoughts on running the RGB controller to the courtesy light factory switch?
   2. DryConn Medium Waterproof Wire Connectors, Aqua/Red (20-Pack) 62214
3. If I do homeruns, I can use this connector below. I could also use it at the first speaker, wire nuts at the additional speakers and one of these at the controller.
   1. https://tinyurl.com/LED-Connectors
4. Instead of using the Kicker RGB controller, would it be possible to tie into something like the item below and run the speakers and ambient lights off one controller?
   1. AURA Pro Boat Interior LED Lighting Kit with Bluetooth enabled
5. Finally, Instead of buying the opt-7 extension cables, I would think it would be okay to just cut them and splice in whatever recommended AWG cable to keep the connections on each end, correct? I could use the amazon LED connectors above for the splice/connection.

For those that have the Opt-7 kit, do you prefer the controller or the Bluetooth/phone app option? Thanks for any help on this.

 

[lazergeek]

I used 18 gauge for my kicker speaker LED's and no issues, the current they use is so low you will be fine. I have the connectors in your 2nd link and I really don't like them. I had to solder the wires to get them to hold but they pins come lose when connecting and have to go back and push the pins in from the back side with a screwdriver. Im upgrading to these first chance I get. They are the same connectors Yamaha uses. https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Water...e&sprefix=dt+connector+4,automotive,80&sr=1-4

 

[212s]

I concur, LED lighting is low current and 18awg would be plenty - daisy-chain the connections. I also agree that twist connections are a no-no in a moving vehicle/boat - vibrations will loosen them. Crimp and/or solder.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

I used 18 gauge for my kicker speaker LED's and no issues, the current they use is so low you will be fine. I have the connectors in your 2nd link and I really don't like them. I had to solder the wires to get them to hold but they pins come lose when connecting and have to go back and push the pins in from the back side with a screwdriver. Im upgrading to these first chance I get. They are the same connectors Yamaha uses. https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Motorcycle/dp/B08CVFRT5G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3UY2QGDC5369V&keywords=dt+connector+4&qid=1647277921&s=automotive&sprefix=dt+connector+4,automotive,80&sr=1-4

Nice, I believe those are deutsch connectors. Thanks for the link.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

I concur, LED lighting is low current and 18awg would be plenty - daisy-chain the connections. I also agree that twist connections are a no-no in a moving vehicle/boat - vibrations will loosen them. Crimp and/or solder.

Something like this possibly? I have these on hand. I would just run 2 wires in one side and one out to continue the daisy chain.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[212s]

Something like this possibly? I have these on hand. I would just run 2 wires in one side and one out to continue the daisy chain.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure, that looks like it would work. As long as the finished connection is solid and won't vibrate apart, you're good to go.

 

[adrianp89]

If you have them I would use them, but otherwise stay away from the self-solder and use regular heat shrink butt-connectors.

20 gauge is fine, that is what is used in the spools:

Amazon.com: Stinger SEASRGB120 120 Feet of 6-Conductor Wire. Two 16-Gauge Speaker Wires and 20-Gauge RGB LED Wiring : Electronics

Buy Stinger SEASRGB120 120 Feet of 6-Conductor Wire. Two 16-Gauge Speaker Wires and 20-Gauge RGB LED Wiring: Speaker Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Sure, that looks like it would work. As long as the finished connection is solid and won't vibrate apart, you're good to go.

If you have them I would use them, but otherwise stay away from the self-solder and use regular heat shrink butt-connectors.

20 gauge is fine, that is what is used in the spools:

Amazon.com: Stinger SEASRGB120 120 Feet of 6-Conductor Wire. Two 16-Gauge Speaker Wires and 20-Gauge RGB LED Wiring : Electronics

Buy Stinger SEASRGB120 120 Feet of 6-Conductor Wire. Two 16-Gauge Speaker Wires and 20-Gauge RGB LED Wiring: Speaker Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Thanks fellas! Always love to get advice from you 2. Always very helpful.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Bought an LED controller that came with some strips and want to use them along with the speaker LED's. With that said, I'm planning to daisy chain them all around the boat. Once I have everything ran to the helm and to the control box, getting power to it is the next step.

With that said, wouldn't it be possible to just tap into the factory courtesy light switch? First pic is what came with the LED controller. I would think just take the black cable in the middle and run + and - to the courtesy lights. Thoughts?

Also, the fuse taps are 10 amp. Would I need to do anything to the "Main" fuse (pic 2) that is currently 20 amps?

Finally, in pics 3 and 4 are two fuse holders at the helm that have blank fuses in them. Not sure what these are for, but thought y'all might know?

 

[212s]

With that said, wouldn't it be possible to just tap into the factory courtesy light switch? First pic is what came with the LED controller. I would think just take the black cable in the middle and run + and - to the courtesy lights. Thoughts?

LED's are very low current so it shouldn't be an issue to tap into the courtesy lights.

Also, the fuse taps are 10 amp. Would I need to do anything to the "Main" fuse (pic 2) that is currently 20 amps?

No don't change it, that 20 amp fuse is there to protect the stock wiring in the boat. I doubt the LED's would draw enough to pop it.

Finally, in pics 3 and 4 are two fuse holders at the helm that have blank fuses in them. Not sure what these are for, but thought y'all might know?

Take pics of the tags on the wires and post - someone may recognize it. They're unused wiring connections for other 21' models as many of the wiring harnesses are the same but different models have different options.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

LED's are very low current so it shouldn't be an issue to tap into the courtesy lights.

No don't change it, that 20 amp fuse is there to protect the stock wiring in the boat. I doubt the LED's would draw enough to pop it.

Take pics of the tags on the wires and post - someone may recognize it. They're unused wiring connections for other 21' models as many of the wiring harnesses are the same but different models have different options.

Thanks! I think they say RES 2 and RES 3. Was thinking I could use the fuse taps that came with the LED controller to put into of these for power and run to my own switch.

 

[212s]

Thanks! I think they say RES 2 and RES 3. Was thinking I could use the fuse taps that came with the LED controller to put into of these for power and run to my own switch.

If they have 12v + then sure. Do you have a DVM or tool to check for 12v power?
Also check for power when the engine switch is off - it might be a switched circuit and you lose power when you're floating.

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

If they have 12v + then sure. Do you have a DVM or tool to check for 12v power?
Also check for power when the engine switch is off - it might be a switched circuit and you lose power when you're floating.

Good call. I do have a meter I can check it with. Have all the battery stuff pulled out right now to do the dual battery setup. I'll be sure to check it when I get everything with the batteries re-installed. Thanks!

 

[BleacherBum16]

Any luck with wiring the Opt7 lights to the courtesy switch? I am looking to do the same on my 2021 AR210. The courtesy light switch seems to have four terminals on the back. I tried using a piggy back connector to power the Opt7 lights and the lights have power full time. Not necessarily when the courtesy light switch is on or off...... all the time. I obviously connected it wrong, just curious to see what you did. Thanks!

 

[Wrecked Rooster]

Any luck with wiring the Opt7 lights to the courtesy switch? I am looking to do the same on my 2021 AR210. The courtesy light switch seems to have four terminals on the back. I tried using a piggy back connector to power the Opt7 lights and the lights have power full time. Not necessarily when the courtesy light switch is on or off...... all the time. I obviously connected it wrong, just curious to see what you did. Thanks!

I was able to use the courtesy switch. You'll need to tap into the blue wire in the back to use the courtesy switch to power the LED's.

 

[Scarabscott]

wire I just purchased from crutchfield designed for marine

Crutchfield CMRGB50

Marine-grade 4-conductor RGB cable — 50 feet

www.crutchfield.com

Waterproof connectors from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9XY1GA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used kicker rgb controller from ebay

I installed on my JL m6 led speakers works perfectly and all plug and play,