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Safety Kill switch aftermarket?

Beachbummer

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
4,055
Reaction score
2,971
Points
352
Location
Houston TX
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Kill Switch stopped working today!

Removed it and had a good day on the water... But, seems it would be a good idea to replace it.

Yamaha wants $100...so looking at aftermarket.

Is it essential each engine is on its own circuit? any way to use a standard single pole switch? Such as:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KILL-SAFET...81-MARINE-ELECTRICAL-BOAT-JETSKI/181213549691

Worst case I drill another hole and use 2, but I can use just the one, that would be nicer.

Ideas welcome!!
 
@Foobar got some fancy lanyard switch, I think it is voice activated or something.

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@Foobar got some fancy lanyard switch, I think it is voice activated or something.

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I believe he uses this product from Fell Marine. The MOB+ with the optional multi engine wiring harness. https://www.fellmarine.com. But you could spend $250 getting set up vs. the original switch at $100. But what the heck, we all spend stupid money on mods, but this could be money well spent for those of us that don't clip on the lanyard.
 
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I believe he uses this product from Fell Marine. The MOB+ with the optional multi engine wiring harness. https://www.fellmarine.com. But you could spend $250 getting set up vs. the original switch at $100. But what the heck, we all spend stupid money on mods, but this could be money well spent for those of us that don't clip on the lanyard.
I know what you mean!

Here is @Julian's new kill switch: :D

..."Alexa, I'm about to fall into the water, activate engine shut-off launch sequence immediately"


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By alternative from Oem, I need cheaper than Oem, not more expensive.

I appreciate the effort in showcasing expensive cool gadgets, but on this one, cheaper is better!!

Cool option, but to Rich for my blood.
 
Kill Switch stopped working today!

Removed it and had a good day on the water... But, seems it would be a good idea to replace it.

Yamaha wants $100...so looking at aftermarket.

Is it essential each engine is on its own circuit? any way to use a standard single pole switch? Such as:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KILL-SAFET...81-MARINE-ELECTRICAL-BOAT-JETSKI/181213549691

Worst case I drill another hole and use 2, but I can use just the one, that would be nicer.

Ideas welcome!!
I don't believe that switch will work. Yamaha's need a separate set of contacts for each motor, they can't share a set of contact. When I had my '07 SX230, I also had a failed factory lanyard switch and replace it with a switch for dual outboards because is was drastically cheaper than the factory switch, https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/saf-t-stop-kill-switches-for-boats?variant=4549272141862
 
Thanks for the info. After some fidgeting the switch seems to be functioning ok. Let's see how i do with the existing switch before i spend any money on it.
 
@Beachbummer I like the MOB+. Way better than that pain in the ass lanyard.


 
Thanks for all the help, I decided to reinstall the switch that was bench testing OK after some repetitive actuation, and liberal application of contact cleaner.

Worked fine today. We'll see how long it lasts.

Thanks to all for the feedback.
 
Thanks for all the help, I decided to reinstall the switch that was bench testing OK after some repetitive actuation, and liberal application of contact cleaner.

Worked fine today. We'll see how long it lasts.

Thanks to all for the feedback.
For Yamaha's, the lanyard switch contact are normally open and close when the lanyard switch is activated or fails. If the lanyard switch fails on you again, remove the speaker at the drives right foot, behind there are two connectors for the lanyard switch, disconnect them, this will isolate the lanyard switch from the circuit and allow the engine(s) to run. When my switch failed it only effected the port engine.
 
For Yamaha's, the lanyard switch contact are normally open and close when the lanyard switch is activated or fails. If the lanyard switch fails on you again, remove the speaker at the drives right foot, behind there are two connectors for the lanyard switch, disconnect them, this will isolate the lanyard switch from the circuit and allow the engine(s) to run. When my switch failed it only effected the port engine.
Thanks.
That's how I got to go out yesterday, by removing the switch. For mine I removed the throttle levers (4 bolts with the gaffrig )and then reached in to disconnect. Once I got home to bench test it and clean iti t,w working ok. So i put it back and it worked ok Saturday.

I'm intrigued by the mob+, so that may be an upgrade.
 
I understand the MOB+ goes on sale from time to time for 30% off.... I'll keep an eye out, at that price is less than $150 vs the $200. If anyone sees it for cheap, let me know.

I admit I have never fallen overboard, but I have pulled the lanyard accidentally many times, in some cases creating a hazard to my boat (on a different boat), so I decided years ago to not wear it. This would allow me to wear it again safely, which I do not do now, as in my experience, with my clumsiness and the tether, it is more off a hazard than an aid.
 
I cut the lanyard and attached a short pull tab to shut the engines of for weeds, ropes, etc. I only wear a lanyard on a boat if I'm going nuts and catching substantial air, and that's not what I'll be doing in this boat. I had a 15hp fiberglass inflatable that i would "fly" in the ocean. I wore it on that!
 
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