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@jcyamaharider . I was thinking the same thing. On my 07 it is on the horizontal flat under the swim deck above the water line. @maboat has an 06 I think.
Just filled my boat this weekend to check the new scupper and intake for ballast, both were fine but my main drain plug was leaking, the part that attaches to the boat. I pulled it off cleaned up the surface and 3M 5200 it. Should be ready for the water now.
I replaced mine today. The plastic one broke right off even though I barely touched it. What a terrible design.
Removal was fairly straightforward as was reinstallation, but that was much more of a pain in the ass. I did have to move the water box and would've liked to have removed it completely but that seemed like too much work. I didn't look to see how much work it is to get it out but it didn't appear that it would've easily been removed through the bilge access panel. All seemed fine until I had to tighten down the new scupper and I couldn't see what I was doing. What may have been worse was connecting the plastic drain tube to the scupper when you need two hands and can't see a damn thing.
70% of the screws in my bilge access panel were not really connected on the boat side though the panel so I had to silicone it down really well.
I found a couple of rusty sockets at the bottom of the hull; I bought this boat with 15 hours on it so I don't know if this was from the factory or after.
Comparison of old scupper to new Atwood. You can see why this thing is so expensive.
Great job replacing your scupper. Now you don't have to worry about a huge hole pouring more water into your hull than your bilge pump could handle.
There are many posts telling of things found in the bilge; nuts, bolts, clamps, screws, tools, etc. You could sink a ship with all of the stuff.
I recently found a huge stainless nut in the same compartment as the battery. I'm afraid it isn't left over from manufacturing. I think it is one of two of those nuts on the aft port side cleat.
Yeah I was worried about the bilge pump failing. I couldn't believe how easy the old one broke. I had to get down and make sure it came apart it happened so easily. I thought for sure I just pulled the hose off. Sure enough, it snapped right in half.
I found my water box came out fairly easily. Just disconnect the rubber hoses, twist the water box to remove it from the rubber hose in the engine compartment, tilt it stern end up and lift it up out of the bilge. I will be doing this again as I want to add another bilge pump in the bilge area.
@Gym, I fought with my starboard water box for quite a while trying to get it out. I could not find any angle where it had enough room. In hindsight I believe that I might have been able to remove it if I had unstrapped the port water box and moved it further to port.
I wonder if the bilge configuration in the first generation 230s is sufficiently different to allow for the easy removal that you describe?
@Gym, I fought with my starboard water box for quite a while trying to get it out. I could not find any angle where it had enough room. In hindsight I believe that I might have been able to remove it if I had unstrapped the port water box and moved it further to port.
I wonder if the bilge configuration in the first generation 230s is sufficiently different to allow for the easy removal that you describe?
You are probably correct about a slight design change @Bruce. They probably stole every inch they could find to fit the head compartment. Originally I tried to work around removing it but wanted better access for sealing the scupper and was surprised how easy it came out although it was a tight fit.
Same here.. No way was the water box coming out... But I bungied the box over and had enough room to change out the scupper. Plenty of access to mount a second bilge pump...
I have a small plastic box that my drill bits came in (the yellow box in my pictures above); I was able to move the waterbox a bit and put that under it to prop it up and to port a little bit. That gave me enough room. It sure would've been easier without the waterbox in place though and would try to remove it instead if I had to do this project over again.
Good question @Implosion that was one of my big concerns not knowing how much brackish water the previous owner let leak in and remain. I was shocked to see that they were in excellent condition. The first thing I did was check every one of them after removing the bilge access panel. I tried to tighten all of them, but only one was even slightly loose. Coming from a SeaDoo, exhaust hoses and clamps are a major source of concern. The SeaDoo Rotax engines have closed loop cooling systems but the exhaust is still cooled by "sea water" so the design seems very similar and familiar.
I was glad to see that I didn't have another thing to replace. I was actually expecting to have to replace at least a few--so much so that I almost picked up several at the hardware store but completely forgot when I was there buying silicone.
You shouldn't. It is really something you can check relatively easily. The only drawback is recaulking/siliconing the bilge access panel. Though it's not really a big deal.
If these things fail it will surely ruin your day.
ok, what is the scupper? I have been reading for months about this and still can't wrap my brain around it. Please teach me about it and show me pictures of it. I'm a slow learner. I have a 14 AR210. Thanks.
ok, what is the scupper? I have been reading for months about this and still can't wrap my brain around it. Please teach me about it and show me pictures of it. I'm a slow learner. I have a 14 AR210. Thanks.
@After You a scupper valve is a drain that alows the deck water to drain out of the boat. If you stand behind your boat you will notice a stainless steel or white plastic circular drain with a black plastic flapper valve. If it rains on your uncovered boat or you take a wave over the bow this one way valve let's water out but not in. If you open the engine hatch you will see a corrogated white plastic hose between the two engines that connects the deck drain to the scupper valve. There are pics of these valves on page 10 of this thread.