Scupper

[jcyamaharider]

Looks great!!

 

[Magic]

Looks great!!

Nice emoticon! I just learned it's an asshat! lol! I thought it was a party hat!

Still, nice scupper work!

 

[Implosion]

That photo is what I wanted to see. How many mm did you grind the flange sides down?

 

[Impelled]

Looks great! Any drama getting in there?

 

[jcyamaharider]

Nice emoticon! I just learned it's an asshat! lol! I thought it was a party hat!

Still, nice scupper work!

Lol Yeah looked like a nice playful, joking around emicon. All in good Spirt @maboat

 

[maboat]

@Implosion sorry i didn't measure. I just eyeballed it fit after the first try. Didn't take much. I did it at 3 and 9 o'clock positions, but if I did it again I think I'd go a bit more towards 2 and 10 o'clock positions

@Impelled no big drama but I always get my knuckles banged up and forearms all scraped when working in there. All my hose clamps looked good. The benefit of never seeing salt water I guess. The hardest part for me was getting the exhaust hoses to let go of the water box. They've not been touched in over 8 years ago so it took some finesse to break the seal between rubber and aluminum. But it was worth fighting it because it would have been much harder working around it

 

[Julian]

Did ya take any pics while you were in there?

 

[Lspeedss]

While I'm in there I am going to tighten up my rear port side cleat. Anyone know what size the nut is?

 

[Gym]

Hey @maboat welcome to the SS scupper club. Nice work.

 

[KXCam22]

A trick I use to getting the rubber exhaust hose is to poke a thin flat blade in to make a gap and then spray some WD-40 into the gap. Work the screw driver a bit and the WD will penetrate and loosen the hose. Cam.

 

[-klb-]

I like working some lube under the old hoses, but I wonder if kerosene and similar is better, or silicone based lubes?

 

[maboat]

I got mine from Amazon. About $65.

May be a little late for some people, but I found the best price at ReplacementBoatParts.com for $37 plus $10 shipping.

The guy was really nice. I accidentally ordered the thru-hull fitting without the scupper flap. When I contacted him, he immediately sent me the correct part priority mail no extra charge without even waiting for me to return the wrong part and it was my mistake. I thanked him for the excellent customer service and promised I would refer my friends to his store. So here ya go.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Oh no -- you are making me nervous that I ordered the wrong one! Gotta check it when I get home.....

 

[Lspeedss]

As a suggestion, wrap a rubber sheet or sandpaper around the extended neck of the scupper, and hold it firmly with channel locks while tightening the nut.

If you notice these Stainless Scuppers have a formed nut at the neck..use a 1-1/2" wrench to hold it during tightening. Allows you crank down respectfully well.

 

[biglar155]

May be a little late for some people, but I found the best price at ReplacementBoatParts.com for $35 plus $10 shipping.

The guy was really nice. I accidentally ordered the thru-hull fitting without the scupper flap. When I contacted him, he immediately sent me the correct part priority mail no extra charge without even waiting for me to return the wrong part and it was my mistake. I thanked him for the excellent customer service and promised I would refer my friends to his store. So here ya go.

Thank you Sir!

 

[Implosion]

I've never removed the clean-out tray but will shortly to install new scupper and inspect hoses, clamps etc.. Any issues removing the tray especially after eight seasons??

 

[Lspeedss]

No trouble removing the tray. Remember short nut drivers.

 

[txav8r]

I've never removed the clean-out tray but will shortly to install new scupper and inspect hoses, clamps etc.. Any issues removing the tray especially after eight seasons??

No, it is an issue of cleaning up after removing, not removing itself. Now that said, there are several things to consider...first off, the wiring for the cleanout out tray kill switches, correct me if I am off base here...the cleanout kill switches are on a island instead of the tray, so when you remove the tray, you don't have the wiring to contend with on the '06, like you do on my previous '08. Secondly, you have 57 stainless screws to remove (exaggeration) and then if it is caulked in, cut the bead around the edge so you can lift it out. But first, you need to open the inspection port(s) and remove the large hose clamps that hold the black cleanout tube to the tray. Then you can remove the tray or just lift it out of the way.

 

[txav8r]

The bigger issue is in cleaning all the silicone off the lip of the seat and tray edge, then you need to recaulk when installing again...if it was caulked before. Some were not. I bought a gasket to use in lieu of using the caulk, so repeated removal would be easier.

 

[maboat]

I've never removed the clean-out tray but will shortly to install new scupper and inspect hoses, clamps etc.. Any issues removing the tray especially after eight seasons??

1. The vertical cleanout tubes have hose clamps at top and bottom. You may need to open the little round access hatches first and loosen the top clamps. You may also need to break the seal of a bead of silicone between the top of the tube and the cleanout tray.
2. There are cables going to the kill switches. The connectors are a bit of a reach, but it will be much easier to do the scupper if you disconnect the cables and remove the tray completely. If you can't finagle the connectors, then you may want to remove the switches instead. They are height adjustable, so mark them, or keep the lower nut in its current position while only removing the top nut