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Scupper

It has to be snug with no play whatsoever. The caulking will shrink in time so you have to get it snug when installing.
Thanks for the reply. I believe I did get it tight enough so there was no play but will double check it in the morning. If there is any I will be running down to Lowes for that wrench Paulie got and starting over. Better to figure out it needs to be done over now than out on the water.
 
You're best to start over if you have any movement now. Even if you feel there is no movement, it wouldn't hurt to run a bead of caulking around the scupper flange where it meets the outside of the hull.

Cheers!
 
@Paulie I could have used that yesterday.

I installed mine and it was a PITA trying to tighten that nut. I couldn't get the water box to come out so I had to reach around it to get to the scupper. I do have a question about the install though. How tight do you need to tighten the nut on the back of the scupper. I could only snug it against the hull before the whole scupper started to just spin. I used enough life caulk so that it was squeezing out the sides, both inside and outside the hull, and just left the nut snugged up against the hull. Hopefully it seals or else I have to remove it and start again.
@Dave good luck with the refit. The hardest part for me was grinding the edges of the new scupper flange. I didn't have access to a grinder (no electricity at my storage facility) so I did it with a hand file. Took forever!
 
While everyone is in there doing scupper take a look at ALL clamps on exhaust. These are crap stainless and do break. Inspect them if ok, I would spray them with something like corrosion X. To protect them. First time I looked in where exhaust is I found of them broken laying in bottom of boat.
 
What are the sizes for those hose clamps so I only make one trip to Lowes instead of two?
 
[QUOTE="PEARCE, post: 11116, member: 6"What are the sizes for those hose clamps so I only make one trip to Lowes instead of two?[/QUOTE]
Until you know which clamps are broken It' hard to say. Make sure your clamps are 100 percent SS as some have a SS band but a steel nut and worm gear.
 
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LifeCaulk won't shrink like silicone caulk or paintable caulks. It is a poly caulk and remains flexible and elastic most of its life expectancy, like 3M 4200. BUT, you still want it snug enough to prevent it turning or prevent vibration from detaching the adhesion created by the caulk. As a suggestion, wrap a rubber sheet or sandpaper around the extended neck of the scupper, and hold it firmly with channel locks while tightening the nut.
 
Ok well I took another look at the scupper this morning and it had a little play, cr*p! I took it all apart and started over. I found a cheaper version (no padded handle and not finished as nice) of the wrench Paulie showed us at Home Depot for $12. I cut the handle in half so it gave me more room to turn it. Held the scupper with a plumbers wrench while tightening the nut. I was able to get it nice and tight so feel much better about it now. Boy am I glad to get that plastic one out of there.
Thanks @Paulie, @Murf'n'surf and @txav8r for all the great tips and advice. I shall now sit back and drink a beer in your honor
 
Ok well I took another look at the scupper this morning and it had a little play, cr*p! I took it all apart and started over. I found a cheaper version (no padded handle and not finished as nice) of the wrench Paulie showed us at Home Depot for $12. I cut the handle in half so it gave me more room to turn it. Held the scupper with a plumbers wrench while tightening the nut. I was able to get it nice and tight so feel much better about it now. Boy am I glad to get that plastic one out of there.
Thanks @Paulie, @Murf'n'surf and @txav8r for all the great tips and advice. I shall now sit back and drink a beer in your honor
Nice find on the tool @Dave. Did you have any rusted or broken clamps down there as I did? We have the same year/model boat.
 
I don't fully understand the need to change the scupper. It drains the passenger area out the back. If the rubber valve on the scupper or the entire scupper breaks, couldn't you just plug the hole in the side of the passenger area inside the boat? If you were not on the boat, water would fill the floor, leak into the locker, and then be drained by the bilge if it was on, right? I see this as a real issue if you leave your boat in the water for periods of time unattended. I am probably wrong so please explain.
 
Is this a repost or you still need more clarification?

The hole in the cabin is only where the water can enter to leave the boat. The actual scupper ( on the older boats) is under water. These two items have a plastic nipple that you slide the hose over and clamp down. The hose connects the inlet and the scupper. The scupper is at the back of the boat and if this plastic nipple breaks then the cabin doesn't fill up but the bilge area. You may or may not know that it has broken but if your bilge pump is turned on and is pumping a lot of water then you will know. Yes to be proactive you can carry something to plug that big hole and get to safety or you can just replace the scupper with a good stainless steel version that is less likely to break. It is a good piece of mind for 60 bucks.
 
Great explanation and now I get it. The risk is that the bilge will fill up. Thank you
 
That is correct.
 
@Gym No there was no broken or rusted clamps that I found. When I bought the boat last May it only had 52 hours on the engines so maybe that is why. However I did find a lot of junk laying on the floor. Some nuts, washers, fuses and such. It was amazing how much trash was left in there. I also found that the drain hose from the clean out tray was completely clogged by caulk from the factory.
 
@Gym No there was no broken or rusted clamps that I found. When I bought the boat last May it only had 52 hours on the engines so maybe that is why. However I did find a lot of junk laying on the floor. Some nuts, washers, fuses and such. It was amazing how much trash was left in there. I also found that the drain hose from the clean out tray was completely clogged by caulk from the factory.
I know what you mean @Dave. It can be like an archeological dig in there. I was hoping to find a bottle of Sake in there.
 
Pearce, look at your scupper, if it is recessed like mine, the flange on the SS version is wider than the nylon version. If you don't have a grinder, come on up...I will grind it for you. Just get re flat area dimensions. Or, any machine shop can either turn it down a little on a lathe, or grind it quickly. It just needs a little off the two sides at 9 and 3 o'clock.
 
@Dave good luck with the refit. The hardest part for me was grinding the edges of the new scupper flange. I didn't have access to a grinder (no electricity at my storage facility) so I did it with a hand file. Took forever!
@Dave good luck with the refit. The hardest part for me was grinding the edges of the new scupper flange. I didn't have access to a grinder (no electricity at my storage facility) so I did it with a hand file. Took forever!
Did yo
What are the sizes for those hose clamps so I only make one trip to Lowes instead of two?
Dont get them at lowes those are junk stainless
 
Scupper...DONE! :thumbsup:
image.jpg
 
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