Shaft bearings SHOT!!! Now stuck shaft...ugh!

[Bruce]

@4x15mph could you post a pic and writeup of your bolt procedure in Member Tips and Ideas ?

@ISLANDRACING could you post about your Island Racing Bearing Grease in Island Racing ? If you have it listed on your website please post a link.

Thanks guys and great work @Murf'n'surf

 

[Rigger]

Bruce,

don't know if they posted yet but here's the link and PIC. When I got mine a few years ago it had "Island Racing Bearing Grease" written on the container. Hence why I referenced that name. Now it appears to be called something slightly different with the same actual physical appearance.

Description below pic is copied from Island Racings web site.

http://www.islandracing.net/240242.html




ISLAND RACING
MARINE LIQUID PUMP GREASE
IR-MLPG $13.95 8oz

We are often asked what the BEST grease to use in Yamaha pumps is. The answer is our MARINE LIQUID PUMP GREASE.Our grease is composed of MARINE rated lubricants and is blended specifically for use in Yamaha jet pumps. Regular grease is too thick and once "flung" off the bearings will lead to failure in short time. Our Marine Liquid Pump Gease will actually flow to the bearings offering unequaled PERFORMANCE and PROTECTION. Recommended for ALL Yamaha jet pumps from stock to fully modified.

 

[Gym]

Is the Island Racing grease only used for the tail cone bearings or is it also used for the intermediate bearings?

 

[Rigger]

Is the Island Racing grease only used for the tail cone bearings or is it also used for the intermediate bearings?

I'm going to call them tomorrow and see.

 

[jdonalds]

This is why I recommend pulling the cone off, at a minimum, once a year especially if you boat in salt water. If there is water incursion you can usually save a rebuild if you just replace any leaking seals and refill the pump with grease. I pulled the pump on my PWC every year when it was used in salt water. I never did find water incursion but it was good to know I had a good pump attached to the engine.

 

[Gym]

is is why I recommend pulling the cone off, at a minimum, once a year especially if you boat in salt water. If there is water incursion you can usually save a rebuild if you just replace any leaking seals and refill the pump with grease. I pulled the pump on my PWC every year when it was used in salt water. I never did find water incursion but it was good to know I had a good pump attached to the engine.

Do you replace the cone seals each time you Inspect?

 

[4x15mph]

When I pulled off the cone on my older LS2000, there was also a rubber ring/seal inside the cone. This should probably be replaced when the cone is popped off especially with an older or salt water boat.

 

[Rigger]

There was certainly some water when I removed the cone on my port side (first 2 pics) but the bearings "looked" no worse because of it. If left for a few more years who knows! I did replace the rubber seals on the cones per the repair manual. I don't think it was absolutely necessary as the old ones felt/appeared just like the new ones.





Starboard side below, it appeared just fine.

 

[Gym]

What's a good source for the O rings Yamaha Sports Plaza?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Update.......

I lost the entire starboard pump! Impeller, shaft, bearings and housing.

PULL YOUR CONES ONCE A SEASON AND LUBE THOSE BEARINGS!!!!!

 

[leeatmg]

Update.......

I lost the entire starboard pump! Impeller, shaft, bearings and housing.

PULL YOUR CONES ONCE A SEASON AND LUBE THOSE BEARINGS!!!!!

Holy cow...how can that happen?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

@leeatmg SALTWATER! And never pulling the pump to lube it. I'm still questioning how I need a new impeller. Can these things be seized on the shaft?

 

[leeatmg]

Wow...I'm not mechanical at all, and when I hear a phrase like " pull your pump" I start giggling. Is this something I should have the dealer do occasionally? I don't boat in salt water, and with stories like this I may never...

 

[jdonalds]

Do you replace the cone seals each time you Inspect?

Only if they look like they need replacing. I had a full set of gaskets and bearings to rebuild the PWC pump but never had to use anything in that spare parts kit.

 

[jdonalds]

Wow...I'm not mechanical at all, and when I hear a phrase like " pull your pump" I start giggling. Is this something I should have the dealer do occasionally? I don't boat in salt water, and with stories like this I may never...

Even if you're not mechanical you might still be able to pull the pump. it really is easy and quick. Usually detach the steering and reverse gate cables, then remove five bolts and it comes out. It isn't complicated. I can pull both pumps, remove the cones, replace the cones, reinstall the pumps in less than an hour.

Check this process on my photo site. http://jdonalds.smugmug.com/Boats/Pump-Removal/23215801_Dn8g6J#!i=1871556138&k=RmhwG6Q

 

[dan144k]

I agree, the cones are very easy to remove and check when boat is on trailer.

When switching to the island racing liquid based grease, what about the old grease in unit and bearings?
Do you need to get all the old grease out? Do they just mix together eventually?
Because when you remove the cone all you see is the rear bearing.

I think their are some posts on wave-runner websites about changing the bearing using a freezer and heat gun method at home. I considered buying a set for my spare parts box.

 

[KXCam22]

To remove the old grease I put the unit in a plastic bag and sprayed comressed air to blow the grease out. Very messy hence the bag. Cam.

 

[Lspeedss]

Does anyone make a cone with a capped fill hole.?
Or what would it do to add a zerk fitting and inject grease?
@Murf what is the backside seal(the side facing the pump) set up on that bearing?
Steve

 

[paul075]

I didn't install a zerk. What I did was take some advice from the PWC crowd and convert the cones to an oil bath. It was easy and now it makes it easy to change the oil once a season without taking it all apart. Now I run Amsoil 80W90 synthetic gear lube. The plug is a fill plug so to drain it I have to take the pump off, which I do once a year anyway. I fill them about 2/3 full. So far it has been good. Cam
View attachment 1013

Cam,
Can you explain how you added the fill hole please. I am very interested in changing mine over to gear oil.

 

[KXCam22]

Paul075, It was very easy. The hardest was to find the plugs that have the allen key top - most have a raised wrench flat top that would interfere with water flow. They came cheap from a hydraulic supplier. Here is how:

1. With the cone still installed I marked a spot on the top where the fill plug would go.
2. Take off the cone
3. propped it up at one end so it is mostly level, file a small flat spot and then and drill a 1/8" pilot hole (actually any small size). I used a drill press but a hand drill would work.
4. drill the hole out to the proper size for 3/8" pipe tape
5. Thread the hole. Pipe tap makes a tapered hole. I wanted the plug flush so I would tap the hole a bit and then test fit the plug to see if it would thread in flush. Then tap some more until it finally did.
6. Clean up all the shaving. Blow the old grease out of the bearings using compressed air and holding it all in a kitchen bag so it doesnt make a mess.
7. I reassembled the cone with a touch of sealant.
8. Fill about 2/3 full with oil tipping it up to get the oil flowing into the bearings.

I used amsoil 80w90 gear oil but any good synthetic outboard leg oil would work great. The leg oil may have better water leak handling properties, not sure. Hope this helps. Cam.

ps I would have put a drain hole in too but since you have to remove the housing to get at it the drain is of no advantage. If a guy was really slick he could put a drain hole and a 2/3 level hole and fill it from the bottom like an I/O leg.