Shaft bearings SHOT!!! Now stuck shaft...ugh!

[paul075]

So what is the best way to avoid the impeller from seizing to the shaft? Do you take it off at the begining of the season to add some anti-seize?

I believe the manual says a thick coating of marine grease. all in all it is probably a good idea to disassemble all of this every year as part of your maintenance schedule if your boat in saltwater

 

[Zeus2013]

I believe the manual says a thick coating of marine grease. all in all it is probably a good idea to disassemble all of this every year as part of your maintenance schedule if your boat in saltwater

I am begining to feel that it should be done every year. What is the time needed to pull the impeller?

 

[dan144k]

The manual says to loctite 567 on the impeller threads and bolts. That was what I did and they came apart a lot easier than the stock factory units did after a year, I actually oblong-ed the stock impeller hex area when disasembling.

Loctite 567 is a white paste, Below info from loctite. it is almost like a white pipe dope.

• SubstratesLock And Seal Tapered Stainless Steel And All Other Metal, Pipe Threads And Fittings.
• CharacteristicsSolvent Resistant, Easy Assembly. Prevent Galling And Withstand Temperatures Up To 400DF. For High Pressure Applications To 10,000 PSI. Disassembles With Hand Tools.
• ApplicationIdeal For Stainless Steel, Aluminum, Galvanized Metal And Other Inert Metals.

The solas cone has 2 o-rings, an inner and outer, I packed grease behind my cone in front of impeller and it was still their a year later. The little hex set screws on solas cone can strip out very easy, so be carefull.

 

[Gym]

I am begining to feel that it should be done every year. What is the time needed to pull the impeller?

I haven't done mine yet but understand you can pull and replace both In an hour. The hard part is removing the impeller from the shaft.

 

[txav8r]

@dan144k the name of loctite implies a thread locker, but that variation is a sealer and lubricator. It has similar properties to anti seize. But being submersed continuously, I suspect it is better than anti seize.

 

[paul075]

I am going to do mine every year or hundred hours just like spark plugs and oil change

 

[txav8r]

I

I am going to do mine every year or hundred hours just like spark plugs and oil change

if you boat in saltwater, that may be a good idea. But I don't think freshwater
boaters need to look at removing an impeller annually. Looking at the cone and rear bearings might be a 100 hour or 3 year service. Fresh water is much less of an issue.

 

[RumDiet]

This thread is scaring the be-gee-bers out of me. Now I have to go and pull the pumps! Can someone clarify - to get to the hub - does the entire unit have to be pulled - or can it be done by just removing the outer portion - and is there a link for seals?

 

[motorboater]

Just take the two linkages off the reverse bucket assembly, and then there are 4 large bolts. Remove them and the whole works comes right out of the boat. If you arent changing impellers its a easy job. And even if you are most of them are ok.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

If your cone bearings are bad....you'll know it! It gets very loud, it's intermittently loud at first.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Woot woot! Finally got time to pull em out of the box. Ready for the install.

 

[dan144k]

Always remember the impeller threads are backwards, reverse threads. Disassemble opposite when thinking of normal bolt. Impellers have left hand threads.

 

[paul075]

Always remember the impeller threads are backwards, reverse threads. Disassemble opposite when thinking of normal bolt. Impellers have left hand threads.

x2

 

[Gym]

I just pulled the pumps today to check the condition of the rear bearings. They look like they just left the factory so I'm good there thanks to the heads up from @Murf'n'surf Two questions though...Do we use Loctite 567 on the four long bolts that hold the pump housing on? Does anybody have the torque specs for those bolts?

On another note. I've heard people have had to use rubber mallets to persuade the sections off after removing the bolts. I found that Yamaha, in their infinate wisdome, installed two pry points on each section to allow you to use a flat bladed screw driver to easily separate the sections.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

I tried those pry points....it was starting to tear out pieces of the aluminum.

 

[Gym]

I tried those pry points....it was starting to tear out pieces of the aluminum.

@Murf'n'surf did you use any Locktite when you reassembled? If so which type?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

I haven't reinstalled yet. I'll consult my service manual for proper torque/thread locker.

 

[Magic]

Thanks so much for this thread Murf..... It always amazes me how much I can learn by just hanging out with you guys!

 

[KXCam22]

I used anti-seize on my long bolts plus a smear of RTV to seal the pump housings. Probably not necessary but there was a touch of some red yamaseal there when I took it apart. If a guy was anal he would take the locating pins out and lap the two halves of the housing together with some valve grinding compound. Cam

 

[4x15mph]

Don't use the pry points since it is only aluminum and they can break.