Neutron
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 3,604
- Reaction score
- 6,030
- Points
- 417
- Location
- New Bern, NC
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2016
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 24
As per @swatski request, I took pictures to document my caliper replacement. This is on my 2016 Shorlandr duel axle trailer. It has UFP DB-35 calipers. So if your trailer has the same brakes the procedure should be similar.
This all started because on my last 2 hour haul i lost both my bearing caps and the grease pushed out the center.
The rear hubs were very hot. So after i jacked up the trailer, I found both calipers dragging. I removed the calipers to find both pistons frozen.
This is what they looked like:
The rest of the hardware looked great:
The factory calipers are zinc coated with a chrome piston.
While this is not ideal, if you pull back the piston boot and massage some waterproof grease it will last a lot longer than 3 years. If i had known this would have happened I would have greased them when i first took the boat home.
I decided to replace the calipers with the upgraded aluminum calipers with the stainless piston.
Now first you have to obviously jack up the rear axle and put on stands to have both tires removed.
To remove the calipers there are 2 7mm allen bolts. A 3/8 ratchet,2 inch extension and a 7mm socket works great one over the leaf and one under the leaf.
Then remove the caliper mounting bracket. Its 2 3/8 allen bolts. A long right angle allen wrench will work ,
Its tight but if you have an allen socket you can't get it in there with a ratchet, even with a swivel extension so try this:
If you have a ratchet wrench use it instead:
Mount the new bracket.
Now before you install the new caliper, i would apply waterproof grease into the piston cavity by carefully peeling back the piston boot and massaging a coating of grease in there:
Then form the boot back into its position and clean off the excess grease:
Install the pads in the bracket, then the caliper onto the bracket..
I never remove the brake hose off the old caliper until I have the new caliper installed onto the bracket. I just leave it hanging down until I am ready to move the brake hose to the new caliper. Less mess and less loss of fluid.
The brake hose is held on with a 16mm or 5/8 banjo bolt
To bleed this is my procedure. Make sure the reservoir is topped off.
Attach my oil change evacuation pump (i use this thing for so much):
Pump it up to start a good vacuum then open bleeder.
Go to the front of trailer and push the tongue back. It will move slowly. Put the lock out key in front of the slide.
The fluid will go down quickly so keep it filled. Let it do this for about 30 seconds.
Close bleeder , remove the key, pull back the tongue then do the same for the other caliper.
After this is done there might be some air still trapped. So with all bleeders closed i pushed the tounge back again and put the key in front of the slide again then cracked one bleeder slowly. I alternated to each side till i didn't see any air.
This all started because on my last 2 hour haul i lost both my bearing caps and the grease pushed out the center.
The rear hubs were very hot. So after i jacked up the trailer, I found both calipers dragging. I removed the calipers to find both pistons frozen.
This is what they looked like:
The rest of the hardware looked great:
The factory calipers are zinc coated with a chrome piston.
While this is not ideal, if you pull back the piston boot and massage some waterproof grease it will last a lot longer than 3 years. If i had known this would have happened I would have greased them when i first took the boat home.
I decided to replace the calipers with the upgraded aluminum calipers with the stainless piston.
Now first you have to obviously jack up the rear axle and put on stands to have both tires removed.
To remove the calipers there are 2 7mm allen bolts. A 3/8 ratchet,2 inch extension and a 7mm socket works great one over the leaf and one under the leaf.
Then remove the caliper mounting bracket. Its 2 3/8 allen bolts. A long right angle allen wrench will work ,
Its tight but if you have an allen socket you can't get it in there with a ratchet, even with a swivel extension so try this:
If you have a ratchet wrench use it instead:
Mount the new bracket.
Now before you install the new caliper, i would apply waterproof grease into the piston cavity by carefully peeling back the piston boot and massaging a coating of grease in there:
Then form the boot back into its position and clean off the excess grease:
Install the pads in the bracket, then the caliper onto the bracket..
I never remove the brake hose off the old caliper until I have the new caliper installed onto the bracket. I just leave it hanging down until I am ready to move the brake hose to the new caliper. Less mess and less loss of fluid.
The brake hose is held on with a 16mm or 5/8 banjo bolt
To bleed this is my procedure. Make sure the reservoir is topped off.
Attach my oil change evacuation pump (i use this thing for so much):
Pump it up to start a good vacuum then open bleeder.
Go to the front of trailer and push the tongue back. It will move slowly. Put the lock out key in front of the slide.
The fluid will go down quickly so keep it filled. Let it do this for about 30 seconds.
Close bleeder , remove the key, pull back the tongue then do the same for the other caliper.
After this is done there might be some air still trapped. So with all bleeders closed i pushed the tounge back again and put the key in front of the slide again then cracked one bleeder slowly. I alternated to each side till i didn't see any air.
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