Solas Impeller on 2019 AR195?

[Hoyt]

Well Damn. This was a very informative thread for me. I have a 2020 195S, and was seriously considering the L13 cone before this season comes. I as well as the above post guy hit 48mph right out the box with only Cobra AK fins.
I'm not too concerned with losing a couple mph on the top end (wife gets mad over 30 anyway). So maybe I'll still do cone for wakeboard and surfing.

 

[dshscarab]

Hoyt, the cone does help a lot. Especially with the stock impeller. With the additional power of the tune, I am back to experiencing the hole shot cavitation problem again. My only guess left is with the intake grate. I have sealed around it previously but never pulled it apart. After stripping the hex head, now I know why.

 

[Hoyt]

Hoyt, the cone does help a lot. Especially with the stock impeller. With the additional power of the tune, I am back to experiencing the hole shot cavitation problem again. My only guess left is with the intake grate. I have sealed around it previously but never pulled it apart. After stripping the hex head, now I know why.

I do have a bunch of cavitation. Haven't wakeboarded or surfed it yet. Bought it late last season. So I'll see if I'll order the cone or not. Adding speed is not a concern for me, but don't wanna lose it either

 

[dshscarab]

I know what you mean. Before the impeller and tune, mine was only hitting 44. That was with me only, 1/2 tank of fuel, and a tail wind behind me. I don't care to be the fastest but around 50 is nice. This whole cavatition thing is getting me down. I may pull the pump when I finally get the grate off and reseal / smooth out everything again. I am really at a loss to what is going on. I have always had SeaDoo all my life. I know the Yamaha is / feels built better but I am not very happy with their pumps at this point. I never had a cavatition problem with the SeaDoo(s).

 

[jdkaeser]

I'm having a hard time understanding your earlier post about the clearance on the new impeller? Was there more clearance or less with the Solas? If there is more clearance, that could be your cavitation issue. I would imagine that even a couple thousands of an inch difference could create a sucking vs pumping effect that could add air and be far worse than any sealing around the grate or the pump would ever create. Just a thought, I am by no means a expert! I do like the gain you got with the tuner however! If you ever thought of lending it out I might have a couple Benjamins to get you back in the good graces of the wife.

 

[DavisAR195]

@dshscarab what RPM's are you hitting with stage 1 tune?
I have a 2017 AR195, so same motor but slightly different haul and running a L13 cone and here are my test results.

Factory Cone
7,650 RPMs
52.3 MPH GPS

L13 Cone
No spacers installed
7,650 RPMs
52.0 MPH GPS

L13 Cone
All 3 Spacers
7,600 RPMs
51.5 MPH GPS

 

[dshscarab]

@DavisAR195, if my memory serves me right, I believe my RPM with Stage 1 Plus is 49. 7 GPS @ 7840 or around there. That is also with the 13/18 impeller, Lucky 13, ribbon delete. 74 Degree water temp and 79 Outside temp. It was on a canal so flat water. As previously stated, I do have cavatation on take off.

@jdkaeser there is less clearance with the Solas. It is a tighter tolerance which should be better, less cavatation. I actually thought there was less until I did the tune. By the way, the Map Tuner is not really the expensive part, the license for the tune is where they get you. lol

 

[jdkaeser]

Well hell, that is just weird then!

 

[dshscarab]

I agree. That's what is making it so hard to pinpoint. I am leaning towards a sealing problem somewhere. Maybe even temperature related. As things heat up, expand and contract. To be honest, I am stumped.

 

[jdkaeser]

Maybe your speedo is off? Lube the crap out of that little wheel with some WD40!!!! That’s my last idea.

 

[dshscarab]

@jdkaeser, Thanks for that idea but unfortunately, the last few speed tests were using my GPS along with the speedo. Surprisingly, the speedo is very accurate. Tomorrow, I am going to finish removing the bolts for the grate and reseal. I think at this point, I am going to pull out the previous sealant that I put in and redo that also. I am going to attempt to polish the intake tunnel so that it is smooth. I will post my results. Hopefully, there is a lack of sealant somewhere that I have missed before.

 

[Compatico]

Maybe your speedo is off? Lube the crap out of that little wheel with some WD40!!!! That’s my last idea.

I thought the newer models with Connext screens used actual GPS for speed rather than a sensor?

 

[jdkaeser]

I thought the newer models with Connext screens used actual GPS for speed rather than a sensor?

Nope, they use a 3 function transducer that measures depth, temp & speed. It's a DTS800 unit made by Airmar. Still has the wheel. Part #F2K-U8K1W-00.

Link to item on Airmar Site
Link to Owner's Manual

 

[dshscarab]

Well, I got the grate off and noticed a little sealant missing where it meets the ride plate. I also grinded the intake tunnel as to make it as smooth as possible. I can't say that the rough tunnel and little missing sealant was the problem but we will see. By FL standards, it is cold 48 degrees (No comments. Remember I said FL standards) so I will wait a few days before testing. I need to make sure the sealant I used is good and dry anyways. I am keeping my fingers crossed and will update when I water test.

 

[dshscarab]

I didn't take the boat out yet but I was looking at my picture that I took. When I zoomed in on the left side (looking into the grate area) I can see a gap still. So I guess I will remove the grate again and make sure that I seal it good. I am thing about using JB Marine Weld like what was talked about with another thread. Any thoughts?

 

[ScottS]

Curious how this turned out for you dshscarab. I appreciate the detailed post. I'm fighting cavitation issues up in the mountain lakes in Utah. I am thinking the Lucky 13 may be the best bang for my buck. Although I am more concerned with getting up on my slalom ski than top speed. Curious about how your experiments have continued.

 

[dshscarab]

Hey sorry for the delay in the updated post. I put back on my factory impeller. I removed the intake grate and sealed around it. I polished and resealed the entire intake tunnel. I am happy to report that I now have zero cavitation. Top speed varies due to conditions but is between 48 to 50 MPH. At this point, I am leaving it alone. I much rather have zero cavitation then a couple of extra MPHs.

 

[steve0617]

Hey sorry for the delay in the updated post. I put back on my factory impeller. I removed the intake grate and sealed around it. I polished and resealed the entire intake tunnel. I am happy to report that I now have zero cavitation. Top speed varies due to conditions but is between 48 to 50 MPH. At this point, I am leaving it alone. I much rather have zero cavitation then a couple of extra MPHs.

Don't mean to dig up an old thread but...

I too have a 19 AR195. For your impeller pull, did the entire back end of the boat have to come off? Or just the outer bolts that then exposed the cone?

I want to change impellers too (I'm in Denver and need a different pitch) but I'm not sure if just the outer bolts or those plus the 5 against the transom all have to come out too to pull the entire impeller/shaft.

Also what did you use to seal the gaps as well as the tunnel polishing?

Thanks

 

[ScottS]

@steve0617

You will have to pull the cone off first. Then you remove the 4 bolts that hold the pump housing off. When you pull the pump housing off the transom, the driveshaft and impeller will come with it. It can take some work to get it all to come out, but with yours being so new it shouldn't be too difficult.

This video is a good resource for pulling the pump - it is on a jet ski, but it is virtually the same.

Below is a thread where I have been working through issues with power delivery related to elevation that you may be interested in. I installed a Solas impeller as described in the thread and I will likely send it back to be tuned down to a lower elevation this winter. I have too much cavitation with the current pitch.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2017-yamaha-ar195-working-through-issues-at-elevation-addressing-performance.28099/page-2#post-467699

 

[steve0617]

@steve0617

You will have to pull the cone off first. Then you remove the 4 bolts that hold the pump housing off. When you pull the pump housing off the transom, the driveshaft and impeller will come with it. It can take some work to get it all to come out, but with yours being so new it shouldn't be too difficult.

This video is a good resource for pulling the pump - it is on a jet ski, but it is virtually the same.

Below is a thread where I have been working through issues with power delivery related to elevation that you may be interested in. I installed a Solas impeller as described in the thread and I will likely send it back to be tuned down to a lower elevation this winter. I have too much cavitation with the current pitch.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2017-yamaha-ar195-working-through-issues-at-elevation-addressing-performance.28099/page-2#post-467699

Unfortunately, I don't think this is true for the 19s moving forward. The four bolts on mine holding the pump piece are much shorter than the long bolts that were on the older boats.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/impeller-pump-removal-on-a-2019-ar195-different-than-just-the-4-14mm-bolts.25558

I believe the entire unit all the way up to the transom has to be removed to get to the impeller. But that's based on a few threads here. That's why I'm asking dshscarab specifically since he swapped his impeller and we have the exact same boat.