• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Some water getting in Resolved

I probably could of done that, I was considering it, just thought I would cough up $18 to West Marine for their 3M Silicone.........:confused: They have a store 4 miles from me.
 
I probably could of done that, I was considering it, just thought I would cough up $18 to West Marine for their 3M Silicone.........:confused: They have a store 4 miles from me.
When you live in the middle of nowhere like I do, you use whatcha got.;) I've been working in that are a couple times. Installing tow valves, transducer cable and inspecting for future sound deadening. I keep using the bathroom sealant each time and it's been holding up.
 
I just use white bathroom sealant on that access hatch. No real pressure so I don't think you need expensive sealant. Holds well and comes off easily when you need to get into that area for repairs
Good point!
 
I just use white bathroom sealant on that access hatch. No real pressure so I don't think you need expensive sealant. Holds well and comes off easily when you need to get into that area for repairs
That's a good point - I have good bathroom silicone sitting here now. I'll get on that project on the weekend.
 
I also noticed the gray foam in the bilge area for sound deadening is also coming off, what’s a good adhesive “presumably needing to be moisture resistant” should one use? 3M?
 
Last edited:
I also noticed the gray foam in the bilge area for sound dreading is also coming off, what’s a good adhesive “presumably needing to be moisture resistant” should one use? 3M?
I just did this to seal up my hatch and noticed the same thing - like half the foam had fallen off.
I used the 3M super 77 and it seems very strong. The main issue is being able to get in there to put enough pressure on the foam to really get it to stick permanently. It’s kinda messy with overspray too. Wear gloves.
 
I just did this to seal up my hatch and noticed the same thing - like half the foam had fallen off.
I used the 3M super 77 and it seems very strong. The main issue is being able to get in there to put enough pressure on the foam to really get it to stick permanently. It’s kinda messy with overspray too. Wear gloves.
BTW it’s not one bit quieter by gluing the foam back up & I’m still getting quite a bit of water out of the plug at the end of the day so that hatch wasn’t my problem either.
Wish I had those hours back!
 
I sealed my hatch last night, leaving Thursday for a weekend on the water. I’ll post up any change
 
I also noticed the gray foam in the bilge area for sound dreading is also coming off, what’s a good adhesive “presumably needing to be moisture resistant” should one use? 3M?
Contact cement
 
Had the same issue on mine. The dealer sealed that area as it was leaking and also found the hose connected to the drain there was just hanging inside the hull, not connected to the outlet that lets the water back in the lake.
 
Wanted to give another update. Over our July 4th vacation we were in Spring Lake, MI and also In Lake Michigan for the entire day doing water sports and running around. 3 full days. Lots of swimming and getting in and out of the boat on the swim platform. Had 4+ footers pushing us around a bit on the third day in Lake Michigan. Each day, when I pulled the Keel plug, it was bone dry. Nothing came out. When I washed the inside of the boat out with the hose and the engine compartment, when we got back home, water came out as intended.

So I would have to say after a couple of weeks and a lot of boating, the silicone seal around the whole cover worked perfectly.
 
I was having the same water in the bilge area issue as well. After a day out, I would have anywhere from approx. 2-5 gallons drain out after pulling the drain plug ( I had previously had a 2013 Yamaha SX192, with the older clean out ports ). Dealer was unable to figure out the source. As mentioned by others in different forum threads, my clean out plug tubes are always full of water too. So, while the boat was on a work rack (or trailer would work too), I removed the drain plug, and used a hose to run water around/over the panel with the screws, and plastic pop up hatch cover. Sure enough, water immediately started coming out the drain plug, confirming water entry. I could not believe how much water was leaking through those areas.

I have had people watch the transom area as I slow down/stop, and unless you really abruptly stop, there is no water reaching the second tier level of the hatch and panel. The water source has to mostly be the water that fills/overfills the new style clean out ports. I do think this newer clean out plug design is a more robust design (the older design failed sometimes, and could blow out), it does appear to be letting more water bypass the seal and get up to and on the panel. So, looks we are obviously going to have to deal with the water intrusion with previously mentioned adding silicone sealers, caulk, new rubber, etc.

Therefore, I agree with what has been said, the design of the panel and hatch could have been better. In my opinion, the panel area would have benefitted from a gasket, and a metal flange type set up, for the numerous screws to attach to. It would of been much more ridged, helping eliminate the flex of the fiberglass and plastics. I unscrewed the panel, and there was literally about 50% sealant coverage the factory had done (no wonder the leaking), and 2 of the screws had already stripped the approx. 1/8" fiberglass they are directly screwed into. That set-up is obviously very weak. I cleaned off all the old silicone, and reapplied with 100% coverage (silicone around plug tubes, and re-clamped) . As I think about it now, might be a good idea to put a bead of caulk or silicone around the little plastic access panel too. Something easy to remove, and redo when needed. That little flimsy plastic access panel just snaps into place, no screws or latches, and I bet it leaks easily too.
 
I dealt with a similar issue on my 2021 and the plug tubes do fill up. When I drained the boat yesterday, the tubes were full to the top. I don't suppose that's a problem, but would it make sense to pull the plugs occasionally on the water and let the water out? I'm not sure it'll do much good as they will fill up again. Maybe we need plugs for the top of the tubes as well! We do stop abruptly on occasion and cross over the transom many times in a day, so it's not reasonable to expect no water in that area.

As for the plastic clip-in panel, I bet a thicker, more pliable seal would work better than the thin, white seal in there now. I don't even know where to start looking for something like that.
 
just getting out of the water on the swim deck will have water get in there. there is nothing wrong with top of the tubes filling with water. Just pop the plugs at the end of the day or when on the trailer and let the lake water drain out.
 
I agree, there is no way to keep water out of there, be it water bypassing the plugs, backwash when you stop the boat, rain, swimmers, etc... We're going to have to deal with it, with using the sealers etc.... Just wish Yamaha would have used something besides screws put directly into the weak, approx. 1/8 thick fiberglass (should have designed stainless screw receivers or flange of some sort and gasket, the fiberglass can flex and the screws can strip too easily), and used latches or screws to secure the little flimsy plastic access panel piece that only snaps into place.

These are great boats overall... We'll just have to work around the poor design and weak points the manufacturer chose to use for the panel and access pop out door.
 
I was getting water in the cleanout plug tubes, and the cleanout tray which leaked into the hull (silicone fixed that) but now I just watch the wake when slowing down and give the engines a brief rev just as it arrives at the transom and most days my tubes are completely dry. Sometimes I have to stop or slow down quickly, but just coming off plane with some awareness and a bit more gradually has made my launch ramp prep much easier and I have a bone dry boat as well.
 
my launch ramp prep much easier

What do you mean? Are you referring to taking your plugs out after you load up? I tend to take them out every time so there would be no sand or silt or any thing else in there.
 
What do you mean? Are you referring to taking your plugs out after you load up? I tend to take them out every time so there would be no sand or silt or any thing else in there.
Yes, no need to pull them every single time if there's no water on top. I pull them after the weekend is over and give them a quick shot of silicone lubricant spray to keep them supple. I also spray the drain plug before putting it back in.
 
I prefer pulling them every time and then do not lock them back in till the next trip. I use pool gasket lubricant on them as well every other trip.
 
Back
Top