Tower wiring question...

[Detonate]

I'm doing a total rewire on the entire boat. But the one thing that has me scratching my head a bit is on what wire I should be getting for the tower.

I have 4 speakers on the tower, and I'm wanting to add LED rings to them. Additionally, I'm wanting to hard wire a navigation light on top of the tow point.

So if I just take it one side at a time:

I need 2 wires minimum to wire the Left Channel Audio, I can daisy chain the two speakers, since I'm running them at 2 ohm.
Then I need 4 wire minimum to wire the RGB lights, assuming a daisy chain those as well.
Then 2 MORE wires to wire the top nav light.

That 8 wires! And that is just the minimum config. Ideally I'd like to break the 4 speaker LEDs into 2 zones.
Like this:

That would basically add 4 more wires per side. I don't think there is anyway in hell to get 12 wires up one side of the tower.

Anyone have suggestions one, on what wire I should be looking into. And 2, methods of running it?

Another thought was to run all speakers up one side of the tower, and all LED up the other side... There would be some wires crossing in the middle of the tower which might make this a pain...

Also, not sure it makes any difference, but my speakers are side flush mounted.

 

[BigN8]

Two words........Scream Marine. I would seriously consider having them do it. They have done my buddies Formula and they do excellant work at reasonable prices. Fast turn around. They are on I-35 in Lewisville. I already have tower speakers which I did myself, but it was a royal PITA! I would pay to have it done if I had to do over. Throw in the LED factor, and I think it is worth it to have someone else do it right.
http://screammarine.com/

 

[Detonate]

I hear ya.... Just wiring those 4 speakers with no lights was a nightmare, so not looking forward to this go 'round.

I have a ton of respect and admiration for the work that Earmark and Scream Marine do. I actually visited both shops personally yesterday. Unfortunately both are going to be out of the price range I'm wanting to get this done at.

If I had the cash, I would have got Tim's guys at Scream Marine to do it in a heartbeat. He was very helpful, walked me around and showed me a bunch of different options. Nothing but great things to say there.

 

[upperdeck]

you can cut down the number of wires by using a shared ground. Of course you would need to tap into that ground somewhere in the tower.

So for instance, in my tower, I have some halogen lights that share a ground with my anchor/towpoint light. The single ground wire is larger gauge than a normal ground wire too.

 

[Detonate]

you can cut down the number of wires by using a shared ground. Of course you would need to tap into that ground somewhere in the tower.

So for instance, in my tower, I have some halogen lights that share a ground with my anchor/towpoint light. The single ground wire is larger gauge than a normal ground wire too.

I was thinking that too, but it looks like to me that in RGB wiring the common wire is the Positive.

Not sure I can really share that one between the Anchor Light and Tower LEDs, unless I always wanted them both on at the same time...

I could at least share one Positive between all of the Tower LED rings, even if I do manage to somehow wire it for 2 zones...

I was thinking about something like this


Stinger 9 Conductor Speedwire 20FT
That would cover:
3 wires for RGB Zone 1
3 wires for RGB Zone 2
1 wire shared 12+ for both RGB zones
1 Pos for Anchor Light
1 Neg for Anchor Light
-----------
= 9 Wires

Question is, can I fit that AND 2 14 gauge for the Audio....

 

[upperdeck]

agreed, I wasn't looking at the details of the controller.

 

[upperdeck]

I'm curious what controller you're using?

 

[Detonate]

I haven't committed to one yet.

As usual, I start with WetSounds and then work my way back.

They sell an RF controller that has a touch wheel, and music sync. Even then it has 2 outputs, I 'think' it's just one zone. But I could be wrong there.
https://wetsounds.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=LEDRGBCTRL

I'd have to find it again, but if you look hard enough, you can find the OEM model of that controller for about 1/2 the price.

Then while I was looking around I stumbled across this one:
http://www.oznium.com/rgb-led-remote-controller

That is the one that is demo'd in the youtube video I linked above. It has 4 independent zones with memory.

This way I could have the tower speakers flashing with the music using 2 zones, so that the bottom and top speakers flash independent of one another.

Then say have all my interior boat speakers on another zone and have them just doing a slow fade or something. And then have all the cup holders on the 4th channel, and maybe they are just a steady color or something.

Just give you more flexibility. I haven't found a PDF manual or anything, but I'm assuming that it would also give the flexibility of just turning on individual zones, which would also be very nice....

 

[David Analog]

I would never use the tower as a ground. In fact, I wouldn't want my tower grounded...period.
If the tower lost its ground, then anyone (including any child) standing on moist carpet who touches the tower gets shocked.
If the tower is grounded and any positive wire would make contact within the tower, then you have a direct short. You shouldn't have an exposed wire, but on the other hand, why invite any potential problem?

As for tower wiring, use multi-conductor jacketed cables that are slick and designed to pull easily, versus a bulky and sticky speaker wire. The excess insulation thickness is a waste and a hardship. You can remove the outer sleeve in locations where you want to reduce the bulk, such as service loops and tower penetrations. You still have an independent insulation on every conductor.
Use the size of wires that are appropriate to the specific current draw X the length with different wires for different roles.
An HLCD would require 14/2 per speaker or 12/2 for two paralleled speakers, so qty. (1) 12/4 for four HLCDs.
The anchor light would receive 16/2 if a DC bulb or perhaps 18/2 if an LED version.
The RGB lights would use a 22/4.
Bring all speaker wiring from one side and all lighting harnesses from the opposite side. This keeps the tower penetrations smaller and the tower stronger.

 

[tim2808]

I just wired my 2 tower speakers and LED's last weekend. The best way to get the wires through is to create a loop/pulley system. So you fish 1 wire from the top hole to the bottom hole on 1 side (or vice versa). Then pull enough slack through where you can securely, but thinly, tape the 2 ends of the wire together created a big circle. Then you can just tape on the additional wires at various points, say every 4-6 inches, and pull on circle. You'll need someone to push the wires in one side and another to pull them out on the other end for it to work smoothly but it works great. I ran 2 speaker wires and single wire (pos and neg in PVC jacket) to power the LEDs quickly..... the hard part is the getting the first wire through! With as many wires you need to run you are gonna need a pretty big hole on the side of the tower at the bottom, so it may be better to go down each side separately. Or use a wire in a jacket with multiple leads in it.

 

[upperdeck]

I would never use the tower as a ground. In fact, I wouldn't want my tower grounded...period.
If the tower lost its ground, then anyone (including any child) standing on moist carpet who touches the tower gets shocked.
If the tower is grounded and any positive wire would make contact within the tower, then you have a direct short. You shouldn't have an exposed wire, but on the other hand, why invite any potential problem?

As for tower wiring, use multi-conductor jacketed cables that are slick and designed to pull easily, versus a bulky and sticky speaker wire. The excess insulation thickness is a waste and a hardship. You can remove the outer sleeve in locations where you want to reduce the bulk, such as service loops and tower penetrations. You still have an independent insulation on every conductor.
Use the size of wires that are appropriate to the specific current draw X the length with different wires for different roles.
An HLCD would require 14/2 per speaker or 12/2 for two paralleled speakers, so qty. (1) 12/4 for four HLCDs.
The anchor light would receive 16/2 if a DC bulb or perhaps 18/2 if an LED version.
The RGB lights would use a 22/4.
Bring all speaker wiring from one side and all lighting harnesses from the opposite side. This keeps the tower penetrations smaller and the tower stronger.

If this was a reply to my post, I didn't mean to ground to the tower. I meant to use a larger gauge wire IN the tower as a common ground. Just to be clear...

 

[David Analog]

If this was a reply to my post, I didn't mean tocombining an anchor light ground to the tower. I meant to use a larger gauge wire IN the tower as a common ground. Just to be clear...

I get it. Just being thorough. At the same time I would be cautious in combining grounds of different circuits. I see less issue with combining an anchor light with a halogen lamp. But even if I verified that the RGB controller output ground referenced true boat ground, my concern would be that mixing such a large current circuit with such a small current circuit would cause a voltage stability issue for the sensitive LEDs. Nothing like testing before you commit.

 

[Cory]

I like that controller. Where are you going to order your lights and connectors?

 

[Detonate]

I like that controller. Where are you going to order your lights and connectors?

I have some left over RGB's from our kitchen project. I'm going to test fit those into my tower and interior speakers to see if they will work.

If they will work, I'll probably buy another spool of the exact same lights. If not, then I'll shop around.

I doubt I'll buy any connectors. I'll just solder/shrink wrap my own connections.

 

[Cory]

I guess i could give that a shot, I've got a pencil solder gun, there would be no way I could do it with my normal gun.

 

[Detonate]

@maboat Does this look right to you?

For the 4 Tower Speakers that are running at 175 watts each.
Ultra-Flexible Neoprene Rubber Power Cable, 600V AC (SOOW), 12 Gauge, 4 Wires, Black, 25 ft. Length

For 2 zones of RGB LEDs.
Communication and Security System Cable, Unshielded, 22 Gauge, 8 Wires, 25' Long

For the Tower LED all-round light
Direct-Burial Irrigation Cable, 18 Gauge, 2 Wires, 25' Long

 

[David Analog]

No way on the .65" O.D. 12/4. That's brutal on the diameter. You don't have to bury the wire underground, just run it through the tower. You can get the correct wire locally for less cost. Check with Earmark.

 

[maboat]

@Detonate I have a couple of initial thoughts:

• That power cable is .65 diameter is way too fat
• That irrigation cable is solid core but you'll probably want stranded
• Your led strips don't look like the ip68 waterproof style. You'll want that
• That stinger speed wire looked promising butI dont know the diameter
• You could do common positive for all the LEDs but you would have to rewire the console switch for the anchor light.

 

[Randy Fenton]

Two words........Scream Marine. I would seriously consider having them do it. They have done my buddies Formula and they do excellant work at reasonable prices. Fast turn around. They are on I-35 in Lewisville. I already have tower speakers which I did myself, but it was a royal PITA! I would pay to have it done if I had to do over. Throw in the LED factor, and I think it is worth it to have someone else do it right.
http://screammarine.com/

I agree they do great work. However, I call it scream marine because you will scream when you get his estimate. LOL. I have used Joe at Earmark many times. Not cheap, but cheaper than SM.