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Rental Property Traveling Tongue Scale

I just went quick in reverse and slammed the brakes. Put the boat back a few inches. (Keep safety chain on).... I plan doing this a few times until weight is where I want it.

After my second child, I had a vasectomy and not longer have the b*lls to do something like this. I bet it works though. I use the reverse maneuver to "set" the boat against the bow stopper.
 
Keep safety chain on...good call.
 
After my second child, I had a vasectomy and not longer have the b*lls to do something like this. I bet it works though. I use the reverse maneuver to "set" the boat against the bow stopper.
Not going to lie I was nervous lol. The boat doesn’t move that much though.
 
It's in the mail now, wanted to recheck after I moved the post. Bumped it back about 3" and ended up with a tongue weight of 380-390. Really shocked how much of a difference in the tow it made.
 
Delivering to Luke today
 
Love this thread. Happy towing everyone.

As far as I know, @Neutron was the first to figure out the bow stop move, so easy, very cool - and thanks again.
For those of us who trailer a lot this trick probably saves thousands of $ over the live of car/trailer combo - just in wear and tear, not to mention added safety for better handling!

--
 
Got it today, just put the boat away for the week (HOA). So it will be friday before I have time to use it.
my 2011 trailer exhibited some crazy things this weekend. (first time towing distance with it.) I tightened my transom straps three times. Either the boat was sliding back and stretching them out then sliding forward, or it is just sliding forward because they were very loose (hanging inches) each time. Bow cleat was on the roller everytime.

I see apparently I need to find the sweet spot with the scale then measure it and bolt it into place (with a new cross bolt) so it cannot move again.
 
no worries. Take your time to get it right.


I am kind of hoping that your straps are broken.
 
Love this thread. Happy towing everyone.

As far as I know, @Neutron was the first to figure out the bow stop move, so easy, very cool - and thanks again.
For those of us who trailer a lot this trick probably saves thousands of $ over the live of car/trailer combo - just in wear and tear, not to mention added safety for better handling!

--
From my experience working around boats and jetskis as a side job for 15 plus years, i have noticed most dealers or manufacturers hardly ever set up a trailer for correct tongue weight.
Even most jetskis would be so heavy to pick up the tongue it would take 2 guys to get it off the ground.
They just plop the boat on and move on to the next one... they are like "screw it, we dont have to trailer it!"
I am sure that if you took 10 same trailer with the same boat combo could have 10 different measurements. None being exact. And they know that too much tongue weight is safer than too little. Then take into consideration how many dont crank the boat to the bow stop firmly could leave the boat a few inches back..... etc
 
So how are you guys adjusting for full tank vs empty? 5% of both and make sure your tongue weight is inbetween the numbers?

FULL WEIGHT INCLUDING TRAILER (from the master spreadsheet for a 2011 ar240)
4914

Without FUEL
4610

5% 245lbs (with fuel) 230.5 (without Fuel)
7% 344lbs (with fuel) 323 (without fuel)

My trailer is severely over tongue weight then as there is no way in sam hell two of us could pick it up at the tongue. (probably cannot now but I used to be able to deadlift 400 lbs...)

This I think explains the dragging ass feeling while towing that @Betik described in his first post.

[EDIT] Just reread Betik's post. the prior owner was so cheap he took his cheap lowes straps with him when he delivered the boat. I have two cheap straps on there (one damaged) as that's what I had on me at the time. I've ordered Boat Buckles to add to the trailer.
 
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I always have the boat pretty fueled. Worst case if I ran it empty, I'd only be towing a mile or two to the nearest fuel stop. My tongue weight was with 70% fuel.

Don't forget about all of the other stuff that will inevitably be on your boat. Batteries, tubes, ropes, cooler, amps, yadda yadda.
 
@LukePrinsloo the previous owner of my boat always kept the tank full. The idea behind it being that there is less room for condensation. And I trust that guy with my life. And if you fly American Airlines, you do to.
 
The fuel tank is pretty much above the axles so it shouldn't play much of a factor except overall weight.
Whatever you place in the bow, including anchor should be the only consern when figuring the tongue weight.

My boat is usually 3/4 to full always
 
I've got pictures I'll upload later. Tongue weight is 600# on first test.
I tried lowering and raising the trailer from current ride height an inch or two. Never really varied much. (550 to 650).
Tomorrow I'll attempt to pull the boat back on the trailer and adjust it. (i have car hauler straps rated for 3000 lbs each, going to attach them to the fence and pull it back by the transom hooks.)
I tried the loosen the straps and slam brakes going reverse. Truck slid but boat did not.
 
I've got pictures I'll upload later. Tongue weight is 600# on first test.
I tried lowering and raising the trailer from current ride height an inch or two. Never really varied much. (550 to 650).
Tomorrow I'll attempt to pull the boat back on the trailer and adjust it. (i have car hauler straps rated for 3000 lbs each, going to attach them to the fence and pull it back by the transom hooks.)
I tried the loosen the straps and slam brakes going reverse. Truck slid but boat did not.
No ramp close?
Easy to just undo stern straps and let out bow crank the exact amount you want then just back down the ramp till the boat is back. Then just pull out and adjust the stop
 
closest ramp is 1 hour drive away. Going out sunday. Biggest issue is that I do not have any adjustment to bring the bow further back. So I can shift the boat back, but see no way to move the bow further back.
 
closest ramp is 1 hour drive away. Going out sunday. Biggest issue is that I do not have any adjustment to bring the bow further back. So I can shift the boat back, but see no way to move the bow further back.
A little confused here? What trailer do you have? How do you plan on adjusting the tongue weight?
 
I wanted to verify it. MFI galvanized 2011 trailer. I intend to reinforce it. When I got on the list I did not realize I had no adjustment back on the trailer stop.

So pictures finally uploaded. I measured the height of the tongue with the trailer on the ball of the truck and no jack, then measured three points on the trailer.
15" at the tongue, 16" in front of the front axle, 17" at the end of the trailer. Apparently my 0.75" lift of the trailer ball is not enough. Will need to look at a 2" lift or so to be truly level on the trailer.
I tested at this and flat (~16" across, see below pictures). As towing, 550#, 16" across 600#, a bit higher, 650#. (17" front and sloping back.)
Last picture is of my bow stop. I know the boat is moving around, and I intend to reinforce it. just not sure how I can reinforce it and move the boat further back. The truck is definitely feeling the tongue weight. (it can handle it, but on the hwy she's definitely getting pushed aroudn more than she likes.)
I spent two hours dealing with discount tire today. Last thursday I had new goodyear Endurance's put on the trailer. last sunday it vibrated like hell at 60 mph. Today they supposedly balanced things right. Still a bad vibration starting at 55 mph... So I get to go back early tomorrow to try get them to fix it.

20180511_133310.jpg

20180511_134404.jpg 20180511_134415.jpg 20180511_134424.jpg 20180511_134518.jpg
 
All you can do is slide off the bow stop and buy one that bolts on like the current shorelandr trailers. Or reweld the base
 
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