Troubleshooting yamaha 232 limited S

[Ronnie]

as i understand you think about the ignition coil ? is that correct ? or a relay ?

before I respond further I want you to keep in mind that I am NOT an expert or mechanic, far from it. I’m a contract negotiator / lawyer / desk jockey during the work week and at best I’m a shade tree mechanic on the weekends when I have to be but unfortunately I’ve experienced a few issues on my Yamaha engines in my waverunners and my 242 LS that sound similar to what you are experiencing. I’m also not bashing the engines other than leaky oil coolers on the boat I think I could have avoided many of the problems I had with regular maintenance and inspection/replacement. Sometimes though things just break, like the starter relay on the 140 hp mr1, to be fair it was the original unit in a 2003 or 2004 fx140 waverunner that failed in 2020, so 17 years old. On The flip side the motor had less than 200 hours on it when the relay failed whereas my coils in my boat failed, probably due to broken plugs, at around 400 hours, same coils different engines about 20 hours apart.

first I would replace the spark plugs on the malfunctioning motor because they are cheap and often the cause of electrical problems. It’s easy to crack the porcelain on a plug when installing them and the crack may not be easily seen, this can lead to arcing which destroys the coil, rough idling, etc. tip use the spark plug socket with the rubber insert not just A Socket that will fit and hand tighten the plug don’t use a torque wrench. I believe I wrench it down manually and once it’s tight, wrench it down 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more, the incremental amount Is often reflected at the end of the box a spark plug comes in.

after replacing the spark plugs I would trouble shoot/swap parts in this order on the malfunctioning motor:
rectifier, starter relay (inside the box, the power lines lead / are connected directly to it, lots of videos on you tube), coils.

the reason I would do the coils last is because I don’t think that’s the problem. If one coil goes bad the engine should still start, just not always on the first try and it would run rough. Also when my coils went bad I could tell they were bad just by looking at them, they were deteriorating, like melting, cooling and cracking. The surfaces closest to the spark plug were white/gray And the spark plug they were attached two had falllen apart as in the electrode broke off and fell into the cylinder.

another reason for this swap order is cost. I don’t know what the prices are today but bet they have all risen proportionally if at all.
an after market rectifier costs me under $50, an after market starting relay about the same. An after market coil off Amazon cost me $120 (mine was DOA) and I ended up buying one from a dealership instead for $230 as I recall.

again good luck chasing down and solving your problem(s). I hear/read sometimes that having two engines means twice the head aches but having two engines is a good thing where Trouble shooting problems like yours is concerned In that You don’t have to spend money buying parts you may not need.

 

[JSWAGNER]

before I respond further I want you to keep in mind that I am NOT an expert or mechanic, far from it. I’m a contract negotiator / lawyer / desk jockey during the work week and at best I’m a shade tree mechanic on the weekends when I have to be but unfortunately I’ve experienced a few issues on my Yamaha engines in my waverunners and my 242 LS that sound similar to what you are experiencing. I’m also not bashing the engines other than leaky oil coolers on the boat I think I could have avoided many of the problems I had with regular maintenance and inspection/replacement. Sometimes though things just break, like the starter relay on the 140 hp mr1, to be fair it was the original unit in a 2003 or 2004 fx140 waverunner that failed in 2020, so 17 years old. On The flip side the motor had less than 200 hours on it when the relay failed whereas my coils in my boat failed, probably due to broken plugs, at around 400 hours, same coils different engines about 20 hours apart.

first I would replace the spark plugs on the malfunctioning motor because they are cheap and often the cause of electrical problems. It’s easy to crack the porcelain on a plug when installing them and the crack may not be easily seen, this can lead to arcing which destroys the coil, rough idling, etc. tip use the spark plug socket with the rubber insert not just A Socket that will fit and hand tighten the plug don’t use a torque wrench. I believe I wrench it down manually and once it’s tight, wrench it down 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more, the incremental amount Is often reflected at the end of the box a spark plug comes in.

after replacing the spark plugs I would trouble shoot/swap parts in this order on the malfunctioning motor:
rectifier, starter relay (inside the box, the power lines lead / are connected directly to it, lots of videos on you tube), coils.

the reason I would do the coils last is because I don’t think that’s the problem. If one coil goes bad the engine should still start, just not always on the first try and it would run rough. Also when my coils went bad I could tell they were bad just by looking at them, they were deteriorating, like melting, cooling and cracking. The surfaces closest to the spark plug were white/gray And the spark plug they were attached two had falllen apart as in the electrode broke off and fell into the cylinder.

another reason for this swap order is cost. I don’t know what the prices are today but bet they have all risen proportionally if at all.
an after market rectifier costs me under $50, an after market starting relay about the same. An after market coil off Amazon cost me $120 (mine was DOA) and I ended up buying one from a dealership instead for $230 as I recall.

again good luck chasing down and solving your problem(s). I hear/read sometimes that having two engines means twice the head aches but having two engines is a good thing where Trouble shooting problems like yours is concerned In that You don’t have to spend money buying parts you may not need.

thanks for all those information. I will try to be more specific in my problem. When the port engine is cool, it starts normally in the neutral position. After 10 minutes, if I switch it off and restart it it does not go back to the neutral position. But if I put gas to accelerate I manage to restart it. The problem is that while sailing like that the last time I realized that I had lost all the power on this port engine. when hot and without putting on the throttle, the port engine does not start. But by accelerating, it starts but on the other hand with big losses of power

 

[Ronnie]

I don’t think there is anything more for me to add but none of the advice you have been given so far will help unless or until you start implementing it. Maybe all of its wrong, you won’t find out for sure unless you try it and eliminate possible causes. That stated I have no further comment other than good luck.

 

[Acard7]

I just want to make sure I am understanding you correctly:

1. When the engine is cold, you can start it without giving it any throttle, it can stay in the neutral detent to start up, and starts up fine.
2. When the engine is hot, it is almost impossible to start, but if you give it some throttle while turning over it will start.
3. You have lost power completely while underway to the port engine, meaning the engine died? Or meaning it didn't have any power/thrust?

I would definitely double check the safety switches. Take your lanyard out and place it back in a few times to get the mechanism moving since it probably hasn't been moved for awhile. Check the clean-out hatch safety switches, press them down and make sure they feel okay. The next time this happens to you have someone compress the port switch under the clean-out hatch. I doubt these are issues but they are easy to rule out right away.

Make sure there is absolutely nothing blocking the impellers, easy to feel through the clean-out plugs.

I am with @Ronnie with this being something electrical, whether it being a bad rectifier, starter solenoid, and/or ignition coil. I assume you already changed the spark plugs, I changed mine twice in one season already.

There is a possibility that your fuel sending unit could be going bad, maybe when it gets hot it doesn't want to pump? Or maybe the wiring is getting hot. Not sure on that, but if you can give the boat some throttle to start it when it won't start it makes me think that maybe, just maybe, it isn't getting enough fuel. You could always try spraying some starting fluid in the intake as well to see if it helps with starting.

Best of luck as you find this gremlin plaguing you!! Give us updates as you go.

 

[JSWAGNER]

I just want to make sure I am understanding you correctly:

1. When the engine is cold, you can start it without giving it any throttle, it can stay in the neutral detent to start up, and starts up fine.
2. When the engine is hot, it is almost impossible to start, but if you give it some throttle while turning over it will start.
3. You have lost power completely while underway to the port engine, meaning the engine died? Or meaning it didn't have any power/thrust?

I would definitely double check the safety switches. Take your lanyard out and place it back in a few times to get the mechanism moving since it probably hasn't been moved for awhile. Check the clean-out hatch safety switches, press them down and make sure they feel okay. The next time this happens to you have someone compress the port switch under the clean-out hatch. I doubt these are issues but they are easy to rule out right away.

Make sure there is absolutely nothing blocking the impellers, easy to feel through the clean-out plugs.

I am with @Ronnie with this being something electrical, whether it being a bad rectifier, starter solenoid, and/or ignition coil. I assume you already changed the spark plugs, I changed mine twice in one season already.

There is a possibility that your fuel sending unit could be going bad, maybe when it gets hot it doesn't want to pump? Or maybe the wiring is getting hot. Not sure on that, but if you can give the boat some throttle to start it when it won't start it makes me think that maybe, just maybe, it isn't getting enough fuel. You could always try to spraying some starting fluid in the intake as well to see if it helps with starting.

Best of luck as you find this gremlin plaguing you!! Give us updates as you go.

Thanks for your help
to answer the best as i can do, with my small knowledge

1. When the engine is cold, you can start it without giving it any throttle, it can stay in the neutral detent to start up, and starts up fine.
   1. Yes
2. When the engine is hot, it is almost impossible to start, but if you give it some throttle while turning over it will start.
   1. Yes
3. You have lost power completely while underway to the port engine, meaning the engine died? Or meaning it didn't have any power/thrust?
   1. it didn't have power. I could ride back to my dock, with only 6 000 rpm. the port engine suffered heavy power losses (it was on the way back). It could have increase at 9 000 rpm and then after 2 secondes decrease à 4 000 rpm and then increase at 6000 rpm. Just before arriving at the dock, after 5 minutes at low speed, the engine diedOn the outward journey, everything went perfectly. At high speed, at low speed (to follow the dolphins) the engine was perfectly regular, no variation in power.

yes i already changed the spark plugs, the battery and yesterday, the oil pressure switch
i will try this afternnoon to swap the ignition coild with the other engine.
Then i think that we will try to swat the fuel sending unit.
I will check the safety switches. I think that there are 2 under the swim deck.
but i am not sure that it could be a source of lack of power

 

[Acard7]

Thanks for your help
to answer the best as i can do, with my small knowledge

1. When the engine is cold, you can start it without giving it any throttle, it can stay in the neutral detent to start up, and starts up fine.
   1. Yes
2. When the engine is hot, it is almost impossible to start, but if you give it some throttle while turning over it will start.
   1. Yes
3. You have lost power completely while underway to the port engine, meaning the engine died? Or meaning it didn't have any power/thrust?
   1. it didn't have power. I could ride back to my dock, with only 6 000 rpm. the port engine suffered heavy power losses (it was on the way back). It could have increase at 9 000 rpm and then after 2 secondes decrease à 4 000 rpm and then increase at 6000 rpm. Just before arriving at the dock, after 5 minutes at low speed, the engine diedOn the outward journey, everything went perfectly. At high speed, at low speed (to follow the dolphins) the engine was perfectly regular, no variation in power.

yes i already changed the spark plugs, the battery and yesterday, the oil pressure switch
i will try this afternnoon to swap the ignition coild with the other engine.
Then i think that we will try to swat the fuel sending unit.
I will check the safety switches. I think that there are 2 under the swim deck.
but i am not sure that it could be a source of lack of power

While you're doing all that work, compare your throttle cables on both engines while they are not running. Put both in the wide open throttle position and look at the throttle stops and see if they are completely against the stops. Also check the port throttle cable in different throttle positions just to make sure the cable looks okay and seems to be functioning alright. This probably isn't the issue but it is weird that you had fluctuations in power but then at low speed you were okay. I would be interested to see if you could hook the YDS software up to your engine to see if there are any codes that it has thrown and remembered. But will be eager to hear how it goes when you swap the ignition coils and what not too.

 

[JSWAGNER]

So I swaped the coil form the other engine. And the result is not better. The port engine have still trouble to start when its hot. And the starboard engine, whcih didn't had troubles before had now some troubles... pfff

 

[Acard7]

Interesting...Swap the coils back, see if it cures the starboard engine. If it does, maybe one of your wires to your ignition coils is bad on the port engine, definitely inspect all wiring and plugs that hook to the coils.

 

[JSWAGNER]

Interesting...Swap the coils back, see if it cures the starboard engine. If it does, maybe one of your wires to your ignition coils is bad on the port engine, definitely inspect all wiring and plugs that hook to the coils.

i gonna try this

 

[Acard7]

i gonna try this

Wait, swap one coil at a time and start the starboard to see if it is better, that may rule out a bad coil too!

 

[JSWAGNER]

Wait, swap one coil at a time and start the starboard to see if it is better, that may rule out a bad coil too!

of course, you are right, one at a time.

 

[JSWAGNER]

I did some new tests today. I went out in the bay for 1 hour. At the start the 2 engines started off perfectly. we sailed at different speeds (high, low) for 45 minutes. Everything worked perfectly, the 2 engines had a very linear way, perfect functioning. the dolphins were followed at low speed for 10 minutes. the port engine stopped. I tried to start it in neutral position, without success. By putting on a little gas we were able to restart the port engine. We went back to the dock, for 15 minutes, it worked perfectly. but once I got near the dock the port engine stopped again and I never managed to restart it. I flushed the starboard engine. but impossible to restart the port engine. I came back at the end of the day to flush the port engine, which started well. After 10 minutes of cleaning I stopped it. I wanted to try to revive him ... but he never wanted to. It's amazing it's really hot and when it shuts down that port engine doesn't run normally. Otherwise it worked fine. When I flushed it, I went into no wake mode to speed up a bit. oddly, sometimes water flows out of the nozzles and sometimes nothing comes out.

 

[JSWAGNER]

some new test today. the technical guy try to swap the gas pump in order to check if there was nos link with the pump. but it doesn't change anything
today i was able to ride 1 hour. But after swimming 45 minutes when we went back, the port engine started (great) but there was no power. the maximu was 6000 rpm, sometimes it increased few seconds and than back to 5 or 6000 rpm. But this time the third red light was lighting for the port engine. Any idea ?

 

[Acard7]

That would be your oil pressure light flashing, which will cause your engine to reduce its speed to try and keep from any damage happening. Check your oil level.

 

[JSWAGNER]

Hello, i still have the same trouble with my boat. Do you know how to plug the computer on the boat , thanks

 

[Acard7]

There’s the video to learn how to hook YDS software up

 

[JSWAGNER]

There’s the video to learn how to hook YDS software up

thanks so much