Here is some more preliminary data.
I did have a chance to go out today and switch the tunes back and forth a couple of times while on the water, switching between the “Stage 1 8350” and the “Backup” (stock) files - that is definitely a cool feature of this system, it takes about 10 min to reflash. Almost like changing between drive modes, but not quite - its not a push button, more like connect and disconnect few plugs and wait for it to upload/reflash. No tools required.
Importantly, the no wake & cruise control w/Vtech reflashed ECU work fine, you do not loose them.
With my current setup, which includes a custom impeller (Impros-Solas Concord, repitched for max low end torque NOT speed), and plastic “sacrificial” wear ring, the top RPMs went up from rev limited 7800 to about 7950-8000 and the top speed went up 2-3mph (45mph in Stage 1 mode vs 42-43 in stock/backup mode). That is somewhat underwhelming, but will go up with the OEM impeller to be tested next.
While the top speed is one parameter everyone seems to ask about, the real difference (Money!!!) is in low/midrange RPMs. There is no way you could be in doubt which "mode" you are in!
Basically, the best comparison that comes to mind is that the Stage 1 Vtech reflash works akin to a “sport” or “power” mode in a vehicle.
A couple of things kind of jumped out at me:
- Throttle control/response is a lot more aggressive in Stage 1 mode, basically a lot less travel and no play
- There seems to be so much power on take off that even with a newly refurbished/out-of-the box low-end repitched Solas I had to control cavitation with progressive throttle when starting up from a complete stop
- Going from 12mph or so (just coming up on plane) to about 30+mph is quite exhilarating when you open it up in Stage 1 mode
I also liked the "cruise" at about 7000-7200RPM which just sounded a bit better in Stage 1. One should also get a bump in fuel efficiency for cruising speeds. I do not know it for a fact yet, but I would expect that along with the gains of power (which are very notable) there must be a corresponding gain in fuel efficiency in the cruising range.
Overall, I like the idea of “canned” tunes, where you don't have to worry about the technical data in the background. You know that it's going to be 'better than stock’, and reliable, but of course slower than a race track tune. And being able to switch it back and forth on a moment's notice is awesome.
The next up testing will be going back with the stock impeller, and I am curious what it will do. I am, however primarily interested in better towing, and will be filling the boat in with substantial amounts of ballast to see if the ECU reflash works in that context. Stay tuned!
Sorry for no pictures!
Edit: My only engine mod is ribbon delete (still w/stock filter). I was running 87??? (sh..ty) marina gas... didn't have time to pull it out. But that's real life...
These preliminary results are nothing too exciting or unexpected. The reflashes work, and work well. You just have to know what to expect when you match your parts to your tune. I think there is some confusion and different results coming from the use of these reflashes, but that's because everyone’s setup is different, from impellers to weather conditions.
