Vtech Maptuner ECU reflash - first impressions

[veedubtek]

Sorry, I probably worded that wrong. It IS a hardware issue. It's a faulty transistor. And it's really common. And, really expensive. Would definitely be cool to be able to fix it with a simple reflash, but it's just not that easy.

However, I know a guy handy with these boards. If someone had a bad ECM they weren't doing anything with, I'd be willing to bet he could find the faulty transistor and replace it. No guarantees, but if it's just going in the trash otherwise, it can't hurt to try.

 

[jollyroger]

As others have said, I look forward to further testing results. I have the exact same boat you do, however I boat at 4,500' to 7,000' in elevation. Getting out of the hole and the related power are what I need improved. Top end speed is not any concern at all; 43 mph or 48 mph, does not matter. Look forward to pondering how your improvements may translate at elevation.

 

[Gym]

Sorry, I probably worded that wrong. It IS a hardware issue. It's a faulty transistor. And it's really common. And, really expensive. Would definitely be cool to be able to fix it with a simple reflash, but it's just not that easy.

However, I know a guy handy with these boards. If someone had a bad ECM they weren't doing anything with, I'd be willing to bet he could find the faulty transistor and replace it. No guarantees, but if it's just going in the trash otherwise, it can't hurt to try.

Fortunately I haven't had an ECU issue yet but a faulty resister, if common and can be located would be a cheep fix. Hopefully a member may have a faulty ECU they've replaced to donate to see what your friend can do. I was able to fix our 5 year old Jen Air oven by locating a defective electrolytic capacitor that cost me $1.06 at Radio Shack rather than trashing the whole oven.

 

[robert843]

I believe there have been a few on this forum that had to replace their ECU due to it keeping an injector open. Possibly that was caused by a faulty electrical component within the ECU but could also be a software issue. Possibly one of the members or Jerry Greenhulk could shed some light on this.

It appears most of the ski guys on Greenhulk that have had the issue have replaced the ecu but if the ecu's are basically the same as the ski you could probably easily pick up a used one cheap on that forum as that appears to be what most of those guys do. Lots of those guys who do mods have donor skis and usually have little use for the extra ecu. I have yet to see anyone over there do a reflash to fix it which leads me to believe it a hardware issue not a coding issue. Almost everyone over there who had the issue had someone offer to sell them a used one from a donor ski cheap in the thread.

 

[swatski]

Here is some more preliminary data.

I did have a chance to go out today and switch the tunes back and forth a couple of times while on the water, switching between the “Stage 1 8350” and the “Backup” (stock) files - that is definitely a cool feature of this system, it takes about 10 min to reflash. Almost like changing between drive modes, but not quite - its not a push button, more like connect and disconnect few plugs and wait for it to upload/reflash. No tools required.

Importantly, the no wake & cruise control w/Vtech reflashed ECU work fine, you do not loose them.

With my current setup, which includes a custom impeller (Impros-Solas Concord, repitched for max low end torque NOT speed), and plastic “sacrificial” wear ring, the top RPMs went up from rev limited 7800 to about 7950-8000 and the top speed went up 2-3mph (45mph in Stage 1 mode vs 42-43 in stock/backup mode). That is somewhat underwhelming, but will go up with the OEM impeller to be tested next.

While the top speed is one parameter everyone seems to ask about, the real difference (Money!!!) is in low/midrange RPMs. There is no way you could be in doubt which "mode" you are in!

Basically, the best comparison that comes to mind is that the Stage 1 Vtech reflash works akin to a “sport” or “power” mode in a vehicle.

A couple of things kind of jumped out at me:
- Throttle control/response is a lot more aggressive in Stage 1 mode, basically a lot less travel and no play
- There seems to be so much power on take off that even with a newly refurbished/out-of-the box low-end repitched Solas I had to control cavitation with progressive throttle when starting up from a complete stop
- Going from 12mph or so (just coming up on plane) to about 30+mph is quite exhilarating when you open it up in Stage 1 mode

I also liked the "cruise" at about 7000-7200RPM which just sounded a bit better in Stage 1. One should also get a bump in fuel efficiency for cruising speeds. I do not know it for a fact yet, but I would expect that along with the gains of power (which are very notable) there must be a corresponding gain in fuel efficiency in the cruising range.

Overall, I like the idea of “canned” tunes, where you don't have to worry about the technical data in the background. You know that it's going to be 'better than stock’, and reliable, but of course slower than a race track tune. And being able to switch it back and forth on a moment's notice is awesome.

The next up testing will be going back with the stock impeller, and I am curious what it will do. I am, however primarily interested in better towing, and will be filling the boat in with substantial amounts of ballast to see if the ECU reflash works in that context. Stay tuned!

Sorry for no pictures!

Edit: My only engine mod is ribbon delete (still w/stock filter). I was running 87??? (sh..ty) marina gas... didn't have time to pull it out. But that's real life...

These preliminary results are nothing too exciting or unexpected. The reflashes work, and work well. You just have to know what to expect when you match your parts to your tune. I think there is some confusion and different results coming from the use of these reflashes, but that's because everyone’s setup is different, from impellers to weather conditions.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Here's a thread that lists a company that repairs your ECU

https://jetboaters.net/threads/yamaha-boat-ski-ecu-repair.7724/

 

[davel501]

So, Maybe with this mod, I can make my CARB boat actually be like a regular boat. I'd be willing to do it for the ribbon delete and the ECU change. And, if it affects mid range, yep. My lake isn't that big so long range cruising isn't an issue. I do like the idea that you can change the ECU back to stock. I do think that is an option, right?

You could probably delete the cat with the software to change the maps.

 

[Noko]

You could probably delete the cat with the software to change the maps.

I'd like to know how to delete the CAT. Anyone know what the process is. I'd like to just be able to get 7,800rpm instead of the 7,200-7,400 I'm getting.

 

[swatski]

I'd like to know how to delete the CAT. Anyone know what the process is. I'd like to just be able to get 7,800rpm instead of the 7,200-7,400 I'm getting.

Hmm... I would also like to know.

I did the ribbon delete on my 2012 SX190. Made a substantial difference. I'm pretty much at sea level. The boat was doing about 7600RPM and 43-44mph before. With the ribbon deleted (stock filter in) - hitting the rev limiter at 7800RPM and the boat ran 46-47mph (GPS of course, boat speedo maxed out) with OEM impeller in pristine shape. That's a 2-3mph increase for 30min work and no expense. That ribbon was a real choker.

The ECU seemed to have automatically adjusted for the added air, and the boat felt MUCH happier. I was actually surprised how well this mod (unmod) worked.

 

[Noko]

Hmm... I would also like to know.

I did the ribbon delete on my 2012 SX190. Made a substantial difference. I'm pretty much at sea level. The boat was doing about 7600RPM and 43-44mph before. With the ribbon deleted (stock filter in) - hitting the rev limiter at 7800RPM and the boat ran 46-47mph (GPS of course, boat speedo maxed out) with OEM impeller in pristine shape. That's a 2-3mph increase for 30min work and no expense. That ribbon was a real choker.

The ECU seemed to have automatically adjusted for the added air, and the boat felt MUCH happier. I was actually surprised how well this mod (unmod) worked.

You have a CARB boat?

 

[davel501]

Hmm... I would also like to know.

I did the ribbon delete on my 2012 SX190. Made a substantial difference. I'm pretty much at sea level. The boat was doing about 7600RPM and 43-44mph before. With the ribbon deleted (stock filter in) - hitting the rev limiter at 7800RPM and the boat ran 46-47mph (GPS of course, boat speedo maxed out) with OEM impeller in pristine shape. That's a 2-3mph increase for 30min work and no expense. That ribbon was a real choker.

The ECU seemed to have automatically adjusted for the added air, and the boat felt MUCH happier. I was actually surprised how well this mod (unmod) worked.

Not sure how it would work with the boats. Going through it right now with my '04 Armada. The Nissan manifolds used in Titans and Armadas crack so the fix is to go to headers. Once you go to headers you have to upload new maps into the ECU. They can make it happy without even having any cats but I opted to keep mine in case they ever do a visual inspection on my exhaust system when I am in for emissions.

 

[scot71]

No. All model 190s and 192s are EFI.

I think he means CARB - California Air Resources Board.

 

[Speedling]

Which means they slam a catalytic converter into the exhaust. Killing the fun.

 

[swatski]

I think he means CARB - California Air Resources Board.

I knew I was missing something... LMFAO. Sorry!

And no, mine is not CARB.

 

[swatski]

Which means they slam a catalytic converter into the exhaust. Killing the fun.

@Speedling Which is where the D-plate and chip mod comes in handy, right? Or am I confused? I don't know if I'm ready for that... Having unplugged the intake ribbon, I wonder about it. I saw big gains after ribbon delete, but no additional gains with air filter removal, so left the filter alone.

The good news is, I'm getting my OEM impeller back from the shop tomorrow. If the weather holds, and it is beautiful right now, I will be doing more testing of the ECU reflash with the factory impeller. If the shop brings it back to the original condition, which I was promised should be no problem, I am curious what will I see on the lake. According to my notes I was doing 46-47mph GPS with the untouched factory ECU at 7800RPM the last time I had the OEM impeller on...

 

[Noko]

@Speedling Which is where the D-plate and chip mod comes in handy, right? Or am I confused? I don't know if I'm ready for that... Having unplugged the intake ribbon, I wonder about it. I saw big gains after ribbon delete, but no additional gains with air filter removal, so left the filter alone.

The good news is, I'm getting my OEM impeller back from the shop tomorrow. If the weather holds, and it is beautiful right now, I will be doing more testing of the ECU reflash with the factory impeller. If the shop brings it back to the original condition, which I was promised should be no problem, I am curious what will I see on the lake. According to my notes I was doing 46-47mph GPS with the untouched factory ECU at 7800RPM the last time I had the OEM impeller on...

I think you are supposed to add a spark aresstor air filter if you take the ribbon out. I'm not sure from your post if you did the filter.

Here's the filter info if you need it. This is for the 1.8L I believe.

R & D Racing Products FX SHO, FZR Power Plenum Flame Arrestor 200-01800

 

[Speedling]

Don't know if they have a delete kit for the 1.8 yet but of course less restriction is better.

 

[Speedling]

I don't think any mr1 engines had cats just for those reading. And a straight through exhaust does NOT give you any more power or speed. On the mr1 everything is oversized already. Unless it had some extra air rammed down it.
The 1.8 is the first ones with cats as far as I know.

 

[Addicted]

With diesel truck motors, it is an automatic denial of warranty if you re-program. Re-programming back to stock still leaves a trail for the tech to see. I waited until after my warranty was up to remove all the EPA crap and program mine, simply out of fear. Not sure how this crosses over to our boats, but something to think about. The performance improvements are tempting, but not at the expense of warranty.

 

[Speedling]

Oh, I am sure that if there is ANY engine failure or complication they will certainly blame the tune. No question. Yamaha has tuned it for reliability and problem free running. Mess with it and you are no longer within their parameters.