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So I don’t have any good option for drilling out the porcelain center of the spark plug. The porcelain is higher then the metal thus doesn’t allow me to get a good bite on the metal to extract. This is enclerdably unfortunate.
I would start by spraying the spark plug tunnel with something like PB Blaster. I know this will probably not get you far, but I think the plug was never tightened. Therefore, combustion gases were escaping around it to cause that dirty appearance. That also caused it to seize in place. At the start, it may have been loose. By soaking the threads in a penitrant, it may start to loosen. Be optimistic!
I had a spark plug fail on me last year. The only way to get to it was to remove the head, about 8 to 12 bolts and 2 or 3 hoses connected to it. It was easy and only took a few minutes to do. I recommend that you do so in an enclosed environment to reduce the chances that wind will blow any debris into the engine.
I think I used the wrong terminology in my last response. I did not pull the head off my 1.8l engine. I pulled the valve cover which exposed the valve rockers, springs and top of the timing chain. Doing so allowed me better access to the part of the plug that was still stuck in the engine.
Heat can make a great difference with stuck fasteners. PB Blaster and some heat from a heat gun might release it with an extractor. If all else fails, might need to pull the head as suggested by others. Best of Luck!
I can't tell you how many posts there have been on the Facebook page where folks question changing the plugs every year...well this is one reason for MR1s. I see it's Iridium which has no benefit except longevity, which really doesn't matter when you at least are required to pull and inspect, and if you are going to do that just use the cr9eb's and put new ones in every year. Also don't over tighten. Hindsight is always 20/20.... Good luck.
I have not had this issue with a boat but did have it with my wife's old ford expedition. Used PB blaster, filled the port several times, and a heat gun set to high after three days of cycling the treatment a couple times a day I then used an extractor. The first day the PB Blaster just sat in the hole and slowly evaporated, then on day two i think it had cleared some of the corrosion away because it wasn't staying as long. After it came out I then used a 1/4" hose attached to the shop vac and an oil can to clean the cylinder. It was dirty but no metal. Good luck.
I have taken on this boat project for a good friends that remembers having an issue with this stubborn spark plug years ago. My issue now is the spark plugs porcelain is higher then the surrounding metal. I don't see any way of chipping it away to make way for an easy out.
Long tip needle nose pliers. you can get a pair at any good hardware store. They even make a vise grip style that will clamp and lock on to the smallest tags and the expensive ones don't let go.