Wiring and Battery Addition

[jcb1977]

The easiest way is to just run a wire from ACR post #1 to Battery Switch Load post #1 (accessories) and another from ACR post #2 to Load Post #2 (Outboard).....no power draw when switch is off and you can independently charge each battery.

I would put the fuses between battery and battery switch. If you used the 65 amp mini , I would put a 60amp fuse on each positive to protect that switch.

Alternatively, you can leave it the way you have it and just add a switch to the ACR ground but will have to make sure to turn that switch off everytime after using it so it doesn't draw in storage and/or when you charge the batteries. But I would still get 60-amp fuses in to protect that switch.

If that 60-amp fuse trips a few times, it's a sign you should upgrade to the 120-amp version.

 

[Clacava]

The easiest way is to just run a wire from ACR post #1 to Battery Switch Load post #1 (accessories) and another from ACR post #2 to Load Post #2 (Outboard).....no power draw when switch is off and you can independently charge each battery.

I would put the fuses between battery and battery switch. If you used the 65 amp mini , I would put a 60amp fuse on each positive to protect that switch.

Alternatively, you can leave it the way you have it and just add a switch to the ACR ground but will have to make sure to turn that switch off everytime after using it so it doesn't draw in storage and/or when you charge the batteries. But I would still get 60-amp fuses in to protect that switch.

Believe I have 100a there now. Used that because the material list and pic I used from this stream showed 100a. Does it matter that much? I can get a 60a though. I will add the switch just because of ease to do, not tons of room to switch around as you suggested, but I do thank you for the advice throughout this process. Any particular switch you would recommend?

 

[jcb1977]

Believe I have 100a there now. Used that because the material list and pic I used from this stream showed 100a. Does it matter that much? I can get a 60a though. I will add the switch just because of ease to do, not tons of room to switch around as you suggested, but I do thank you for the advice throughout this process. Any particular switch you would recommend?

well, we have a 100-amp fuse on this thread because we used the 120-amp switch and ACR. you have the 65-amp version so a 100-amp fuse is doing absolutely nothing in your case as the weak link is the 65-amp rated switch. I would definitely change those out to 60 amp and get them between the battery and switch.

any 12V inline toggle switch should work with a minimum rating of say 10 amps or more.

 

[chadjmorgan]

Thanks for all this amazing information, it is helping me a lot right now as I am rewiring my boat.

I just have a question, maybe I am missing something. But why is everyone wiring a breaker from the battery to the switch? Doesn’t this trip when starting the boat? Since I am wiring my ACR to the load side of my switch, wouldn’t the breakers go between the switch and the ACR?

 

[jcb1977]

Thanks for all this amazing information, it is helping me a lot right now as I am rewiring my boat.

I just have a question, maybe I am missing something. But why is everyone wiring a breaker from the battery to the switch? Doesn’t this trip when starting the boat? Since I am wiring my ACR to the load side of my switch, wouldn’t the breakers go between the switch and the ACR?

in my mind, its best to have the fuse/breakers as close to battery as possible. While the fuse is protecting the wiring, having before switch also protects the switch and ACR from overcurrent. fusing between switch and ACR would only protect the ACR and small bit of wiring between switch and ACR.

 

[chadjmorgan]

in my mind, its best to have the fuse/breakers as close to battery as possible. While the fuse is protecting the wiring, having before switch also protects the switch and ACR from overcurrent. fusing between switch and ACR would only protect the ACR and small bit of wiring between switch and ACR.

Yeah definitely makes sense to want to protect as much as possible. I just wonder if people are tripping the breakers or blowing fuses often since the starting wire is essentially fused. From what I understand the USCG recommends not fusing at any battery that could be wired to the engine, which with the add a battery setup could be both batteries. Would be curious to hear if anyone has had an issue fusing both batteries between the switch.

 

[jcb1977]

Yeah definitely makes sense to want to protect as much as possible. I just wonder if people are tripping the breakers or blowing fuses often since the starting wire is essentially fused. From what I understand the USCG recommends not fusing at any battery that could be wired to the engine, which with the add a battery setup could be both batteries. Would be curious to hear if anyone has had an issue fusing both batteries between the switch.

Never had a blown/tripped fuse.....our engines don't pull anywhere near 100 amps when cranking.

can you post where you found the USCG recommendation for not fusing? my understanding is that boat wiring standards come from ABYC and they definitely recommend fusing within 7" of the batteries but have an exception for "cranking conductors" if your engine is too big to practically fuse during cranking. It's not saying don't fuse cranking conductors, but fuse it unless it's unreasonable to do so because of the size of your engine.

 

[chadjmorgan]

Never had a blown/tripped fuse.....our engines don't pull anywhere near 100 amps when cranking.

can you post where you found the USCG recommendation for not fusing? my understanding is that boat wiring standards come from ABYC and they definitely recommend fusing within 7" of the batteries but have an exception for "cranking conductors" if your engine is too big to practically fuse during cranking. It's not saying don't fuse cranking conductors, but fuse it unless it's unreasonable to do so because of the size of your engine.

You are correct, that is the ABYC recommendation I was talking about. I think the recommendation I have seen multiple times is taken out of context a bit and it more so means to not use breakers on cranking conductors.

But thanks for assuring me our engines don’t draw over 100A, this is the information I was looking for. I definitely would prefer to fuse anything connected to the battery, I just want to avoid nuisance trips especially if I am not onboard.

I will be using MRBF 100 amp fuses at each battery!

 

[jcb1977]

You are correct, that is the ABYC recommendation I was talking about. I think the recommendation I have seen multiple times is taken out of context a bit and it more so means to not use breakers on cranking conductors.

But thanks for assuring me our engines don’t draw over 100A, this is the information I was looking for. I definitely would prefer to fuse anything connected to the battery, I just want to avoid nuisance trips especially if I am not onboard.

I will be using MRBF 100 amp fuses at each battery!

no problem.....here is a link to an article that talks more in depth about it...the article is suggesting the exception for cranking conductors should be removed and be made a requirement. It also mentions the exception is often incorrectly interpreted as you should not fuse the cranking conductors.

Battery Banks & Over Current Protection - Marine How To

 

[chadjmorgan]

no problem.....here is a link to an article that talks more in depth about it...the article is suggesting the exception for cranking conductors should be removed and be made a requirement. It also mentions the exception is often incorrectly interpreted as you should not fuse the cranking conductors.

Battery Banks & Over Current Protection - Marine How To

Great read, thanks for sharing. I see why the exception should be removed, reading this further scared me into making sure my cables are fused

 

[chadjmorgan]

I am a long time lurker of this forum and I am hoping to get some feedback on this wiring diagram that I came up with using the AMAZING content found in this post and among other posts on this site.

I have a 2014 Yamaha AR192 that I bought brand new (can't believe it's been 10 years ago). I had the different JL Audio SlamPak's with the tower speakers, subwoofer, new speakers, amps, etc installed when I bought the boat at the dealer. I also had the dual battery system Yamaha recommended installed as well at the time, with the switch and DVSR. After 10 years I am finally over having to manually switch the battery when I am at the sandbar (or forgetting to) and want to put in the Blue Sea System add a battery kit. Seems like a pretty simple install and a nice set it and forget it system.

I think I have my wiring all planned out, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything! I am also putting in a bus bar because I will be putting in a battery shunt soon as well. My main questions remaining are regarding the bus bar. since I have my amps running to it as well, is using 0 gauge wire back to the batteries big enough? Also, it seems 4 gauge wire for everything else should be good? Am I missing anything else?

Thanks again for all the info provided here and any additional info on my wiring diagram!

 

[jcb1977]

I am a long time lurker of this forum and I am hoping to get some feedback on this wiring diagram that I came up with using the AMAZING content found in this post and among other posts on this site.

I have a 2014 Yamaha AR192 that I bought brand new (can't believe it's been 10 years ago). I had the different JL Audio SlamPak's with the tower speakers, subwoofer, new speakers, amps, etc installed when I bought the boat at the dealer. I also had the dual battery system Yamaha recommended installed as well at the time, with the switch and DVSR. After 10 years I am finally over having to manually switch the battery when I am at the sandbar (or forgetting to) and want to put in the Blue Sea System add a battery kit. Seems like a pretty simple install and a nice set it and forget it system.

I think I have my wiring all planned out, I just want to make sure I am not missing anything! I am also putting in a bus bar because I will be putting in a battery shunt soon as well. My main questions remaining are regarding the bus bar. since I have my amps running to it as well, is using 0 gauge wire back to the batteries big enough? Also, it seems 4 gauge wire for everything else should be good? Am I missing anything else?

Thanks again for all the info provided here and any additional info on my wiring diagram!

View attachment 222584

Can you elaborate on your current switch with the DVSR? there shouldn't be a need to manually switch things over at the sandbar. do you have two switches - one for house and one for start?

 

[chadjmorgan]

Can you elaborate on your current switch with the DVSR? there shouldn't be a need to manually switch things over at the sandbar. do you have two switches - one for house and one for start?

Sure, I have the kit that Yamaha was selling at the time with the single switch (1/both/2/off).

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/SBT-DUALB-AT-08

 

[jcb1977]

Sure, I have the kit that Yamaha was selling at the time with the single switch (1/both/2/off).

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/SBT-DUALB-AT-08

so that's a single circuit setup......there's no need to switch between batteries unless you use up one of them. On odd numbered days, switch it to 1 and leave it there all day. on even numbered days switch it to 2 and leave it there all day. This will exercise both batteries. otherwise, the whole boat is wired to one of the batteries, and the second one is a reserve. the only time there would be a need to switch batteries is if you use up one entirely.

the VSR, charges your primary battery first, then switches over to the backup when the boat is running.

 

[jcb1977]

Sure, I have the kit that Yamaha was selling at the time with the single switch (1/both/2/off).

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/SBT-DUALB-AT-08

you'll also want to check if your VSR is engaging when using your dual bank charger....if it's on, it's charging both batteries together instead of individually. you'll want to figure out a way to make sure it stays off. Could put a switch on the ground wire or re-wire the VSR to the Load side of the switch if it isn't already.

 

[jcb1977]

Sure, I have the kit that Yamaha was selling at the time with the single switch (1/both/2/off).

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/SBT-DUALB-AT-08

you'll also want to get in the habit of switching through "both" to go from 1 to 2 instead of through "off". there seems to be evidence that going through "off" can sometimes cause voltage spikes. otherwise, nothing wrong with this setup. really no need to go to dual circuit House and Start setup unless you really want to.

if you end up switching to the dual circuit setup, I would also consider getting rid of all the inline Fuses and consolidating as much as possible in fuse blocks. makes it a lot easier to find and replaces fuses as well as smaller accessories in the future. I didn't go through all of your wire sizes in details but they seem reasonable to me. there are some fuse blocks out there that have spaces for higher amp circuits to take care of your amps. you could consider putting a fuse block at the helm and one back by the batteries to potentially save on amount of wire you have to run. on these boats, mounting space for all of these items is usually the controlling factor though.

 

[chadjmorgan]

so that's a single circuit setup......there's no need to switch between batteries unless you use up one of them. On odd numbered days, switch it to 1 and leave it there all day. on even numbered days switch it to 2 and leave it there all day. This will exercise both batteries. otherwise, the whole boat is wired to one of the batteries, and the second one is a reserve. the only time there would be a need to switch batteries is if you use up one entirely.

the VSR, charges your primary battery first, then switches over to the backup when the boat is running.

yeah, I want to get away from a single circuit setup. I can use up a battery often while I am out, so this leads to me always having to switch batteries when I am leaving leaving the sandbar (and gives me anxiety, even though I know it will start ha). I am figuring with this new setup, I just turn the switch on when I leave and don't have to touch it again until I get back to the house and in the lift, then switch it back to off, plug in my shore charger and batteries will be charged next time I go out. No worrying about exercising both batteries, switching, etc.

you'll also want to check if your VSR is engaging when using your dual bank charger....if it's on, it's charging both batteries together instead of individually. you'll want to figure out a way to make sure it stays off. Could put a switch on the ground wire or re-wire the VSR to the Load side of the switch if it isn't already.

This is what caused me to consider rewiring everything. I realized last year that the dealer originally did not account for a dual bank charger, so I figured it was a good time to add a common bus bar and battery monitor since I was going to be rewiring some things. Then I started looking into different switching systems, and here I am..

you'll also want to get in the habit of switching through "both" to go from 1 to 2 instead of through "off". there seems to be evidence that going through "off" can sometimes cause voltage spikes. otherwise, nothing wrong with this setup. really no need to go to dual circuit House and Start setup unless you really want to.

if you end up switching to the dual circuit setup, I would also consider getting rid of all the inline Fuses and consolidating as much as possible in fuse blocks. makes it a lot easier to find and replaces fuses as well as smaller accessories in the future. I didn't go through all of your wire sizes in details but they seem reasonable to me. there are some fuse blocks out there that have spaces for higher amp circuits to take care of your amps. you could consider putting a fuse block at the helm and one back by the batteries to potentially save on amount of wire you have to run. on these boats, mounting space for all of these items is usually the controlling factor though.

Another reason I want to change this.. I asked my girlfriend to switch the batteries for me one time and (stupidly) did not explain to her what way to turn the switch. Fried my head unit. Which I was glad to have an excuse to get rid of that piece of junk stock one anyways, but I would not be happy if my new one had the same fate. I just feel like the dual circuit, while has some disadvantages, is just a simpler setup with less room for error.

That is a good idea with the fuse block and I wanted to do this initially, but the space is so limited... maybe I will look at this again because I want this to be clean and I really hate inline fuses. That is why I am using terminal MRBF fuses where I can. I did want to add a remote LED light for the ACR near the new battery meter (Balmar SG200, probably) in the dash, so it would be nice to have power ran to the helm already..