Yamaha Oil Change Kit 3 qts, not 3.38?

[daaaddy27]

2022 210 FSH--

I am about to do my 10 hour service. The manual says the engine oil quantity without a filter replacement is 3.38 quarts, but the oil change kit for the 210 contains 3 quarts. Can anyone explain? Is it just expected that half a quart or so will remain in the engine? Do I get the oil change kit or do I buy 4 quarts of Yamalube 10W40 4W? What extractors do people recommend?

Thanks

 

[Dixemon]

If you have the tr-1 motors you will want to get the kit with 4 quarts and a filter. You will end up extracting about 3.25 quarts out of each engine. As for extractors there are quit a few options out there. I have a 12v fluid pump rigged and mounted on the inside of an old bucket. Put a switch on the side and has battery clamps on the leads so i do everyhing while in the boat. Theres lots of good oil change writups and dyi threads in the forums. Where you located, might come by for a beer if your local?
Heres what i buy for an oilchange kit x2

Yamaha Watercraft 3 Cylinder TR-1 Oil Change Kit - LUB-3WTRC-KT-20 VX, EX, V1, EXR Amazon.com: Yamaha Watercraft 3 Cylinder TR-1 Oil Change Kit - LUB-3WTRC-KT-20 VX, EX, V1, EXR : Automotive

 

[Dixemon]

Heres one with an extractor, gallon o yamalube 10-40 and a filter
Oil change kit for Yamaha 4 Stroke Waverunners - 1000cc, 1100cc and 1050cc Yamaha EX/VX TR-1 Engine Amazon.com: Oil change kit for Yamaha 4 Stroke Waverunners - 1000cc, 1100cc and 1050cc Yamaha EX/VX TR-1 Engine : Automotive

 

[Ericd]

Trying to finish my oil change…’21 210 FSH TR-1’s.
I can’t get the Yammy filter off.
I ordered a pair of filter channel locks and that should be all I need, but I was wondering what is the correct size for Yammy filter socket/wrench?
I know it is smaller than the 65mm I got from Amsoil. Thanks in advance!

 

[HangOutdoors]

Would recommend buying the yamaha engine oil in bulk 1 gallon jugs. You will always need it. I got a good deal on amazon when I bought 8 gallons. I change mine twice every year. Once in the fall to get out the used oil so it doesn't sit in there in the winter. Then I fog it, etc. then after a tank or so of gas in the spring once I burn off the stabil in the gas tank and any other additives. May be overkill but it is what I do. I also change my plugs in the spring every year once I burn off that first tank of gas.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Also, please don't put back in the amount you take out, you need to make sure it is at the correct level on the dipstick. What I do is change the oil and keep it low on the dipstick when I put it in. I warm the engines on trailer, level, or I do it on the water in a slow no wake zone. Then I shut them off and let the oil settle a bit. Use a paper towel to lay the dipstick against once you check it. Makes it easier to see the clean oil on it in the sun.

Then I bring it up to the level that I require. The best level for the TR-1' is 1/4 to H/F. So half way between low and the mid point. Do not fill it to H/F You will lose performance and there is no need. (But each to their own) If you fill too much there is a good chance you will get oil in the air filter. Before every outing I always check the oil, to make sure everything is in line.

 

[drewkaree]

I ordered a pair of filter channel locks and that should be all I need, but I was wondering what is the correct size for Yammy filter socket/wrench?

Couple things - once you have the oil filter pliers, you won't need another cap wrench. I don't recall the size, but look at the pic, maybe you can make something out on that godforsaken thing If you have a channel locks large enough, you should be able to use that, but the handle on one that's the right size might be a PITA to use in that engine bay - I have one, and yet didn't use it for that.

Next, did you poke a hole in the top of the filter? While I don't like to do that, I know others do, and the manual suggests it. The suction may be what's keeping you from being able to turn it. Something to remember for next time, loosen the filter a quarter turn just to break the vacuum. It won't be enough to leak, so if it starts to leak, tighten it slightly until it stops. No idea why it would be on so tight you couldn't get it off by hand, other than the vacuum, or the last "tech" to work on it wrenched it down way too tight.
Since it's on tight enough that you can't get it off without tools, make sure to look at the mating surface where the gasket is on the motor, and make sure you don't have anything stuck to it, lest your new filter leak through those bits and crumbs that might be left on there.

 

[Ericd]

Couple things - once you have the oil filter pliers, you won't need another cap wrench. I don't recall the size, but look at the pic, maybe you can make something out on that godforsaken thing If you have a channel locks large enough, you should be able to use that, but the handle on one that's the right size might be a PITA to use in that engine bay - I have one, and yet didn't use it for that.

Next, did you poke a hole in the top of the filter? While I don't like to do that, I know others do, and the manual suggests it. The suction may be what's keeping you from being able to turn it. Something to remember for next time, loosen the filter a quarter turn just to break the vacuum. It won't be enough to leak, so if it starts to leak, tighten it slightly until it stops. No idea why it would be on so tight you couldn't get it off by hand, other than the vacuum, or the last "tech" to work on it wrenched it down way too tight.
Since it's on tight enough that you can't get it off without tools, make sure to look at the mating surface where the gasket is on the motor, and make sure you don't have anything stuck to it, lest your new filter leak through those bits and crumbs that might be left on there.

More curious about the correct wrench size than anything else. The top of the filter has flat spots to accept the appropriate wrench and my 65mm wrench is too big…Hopefully the pliers/wrench referenced will work.
The nail hole is to drain the filter oil into crankcase, primarily because it is installed bottom/seal/open side down. Removal while it is full of oil would almost assure a mess and cleanup.
Doubt suction is holding it, rather dealer tech tightened it way too much.